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Old 10-05-2004, 07:15 PM   #9946
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Default Re: TC-SD VGS MAIN CHASSIS

Quote:
Originally posted by danjoy25
Check this chassis for the Yoke.
another view.
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File Type: jpg mo-129.jpg (9.5 KB, 182 views)
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Old 10-05-2004, 11:16 PM   #9947
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Thats the Team Hybrid chassis if I'm not mistaken
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Old 10-06-2004, 02:16 AM   #9948
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Quote:
Originally posted by pops
Well, I don't drive, I just wrench for my son Alex. He ran it last year in 19T and Stock on carpet. He liked it on carpet with rubber tires alot better than the SSG. He said he couldn't tell much of a difference between the RS and the CGM on carpet. But I think the CGM was a little better on carpet than both. He is going to run it again at the ROAR Region 12 Championships next weekend in 19T and run the CGM in Mod. This is race is on asphalt. It should be a blast.
Hey your son and I have the same name I hope you do well on the championships. We currently don't have a carpet track here in Manila Philippines, but there are 4 very nice asphalt tracks within an hour's drive from my home. Nobody uses the Rayspeed here anymore but there are a lot using the CGM. I'd appreciate it if you can give input with regards to the two cars on asphalt after the race. Again, good luck to both of you
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Old 10-06-2004, 08:05 AM   #9949
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Quote:
Originally posted by ritchie
check the coupler pins that connect the dog bones to the axles. loose ones will cause glitching
are you refering to the CVD's connection?
If so I have made sure they are built well and there is no loose pins around.
If you are refering to the center drive shaft I have installed the pins and have put the rubber bands around them also.
I do have the grafite drive shaft and I have tried so many other configurations and have still found there is glitching.
Is there a paint that eleminates radio interferance?
LOL
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Old 10-06-2004, 09:53 AM   #9950
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Quote:
Originally posted by tornado
You would be able to solve it by going to blades......no rattling noise.

Bryan
Blades????
Picture please.
I know CVD's I know Dogbones
the only blades was for anti roll.
I thought I have seen it all....
Thanks
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Old 10-06-2004, 07:46 PM   #9951
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Quote:
Originally posted by shooky
are you refering to the CVD's connection?
If so I have made sure they are built well and there is no loose pins around.
If you are refering to the center drive shaft I have installed the pins and have put the rubber bands around them also.
I do have the grafite drive shaft and I have tried so many other configurations and have still found there is glitching.
Is there a paint that eleminates radio interferance?
LOL
the first one, cvd connection, i had a loose pin and it was driving me crazy until one day i changed to light weight axles and dogbones, and poof, my glitching was gone, if you search around on the yokomo site you will find (i can't remember the name right now) some type of tape and stuff to eleminate radio noise. they also have some little magnet deallys that go on the motor wires that are suppose to help also, good luck.

Last edited by ritchie; 10-07-2004 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 10-06-2004, 08:37 PM   #9952
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Quote:
Originally posted by shooky
Blades????
Picture please.
I know CVD's I know Dogbones
the only blades was for anti roll.
I thought I have seen it all....
Thanks
Here is one more photo up close :

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...postid=1124639

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Old 10-06-2004, 08:42 PM   #9953
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Quote:
Originally posted by shooky
are you refering to the CVD's connection?
If so I have made sure they are built well and there is no loose pins around.
If you are refering to the center drive shaft I have installed the pins and have put the rubber bands around them also.
I do have the grafite drive shaft and I have tried so many other configurations and have still found there is glitching.
Is there a paint that eleminates radio interferance?
LOL
Try using back the original aluminium center shaft and see whether that help to reduce glitch. A friend of mine who is a radio engineer or something told me that sometimes graphite shaft is the culprit. Its a process of elimination.

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Old 10-06-2004, 09:44 PM   #9954
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A battery question from the.....

it's been years since I've done that in RC department.

Ok first of all you gotta remember I haven't had anthing to do with RC batteries since back in the day when a 1700mah pack was massive.

Anyway......

As I will be racing in 540 stock class I'm limited to 1500mah unmatched packs so to this end I purchased 7 Duratrak "shark" battery packs and even though cheap I think it's still a good idea to treat them right so have started to cycle them.

So the question is, is the following battery "behaviour" normal for the first one I've done....

Trickle charged for 17 hours resulting in a voltage reading of 8.46

Then pushed fast charge (4 amp setting) and the voltage shot up to 11 volts for a few seconds and then dropped to 10.5v

22 minutes later the fast charge switched off when the reading had dropped to 9.46v

At which time the reading then went back to the original 8.46 that it had been on when the battery had only been trickled for 17 hours.

The only thing any of this has in common from what I can remember of 1200 mah packs back in the day was that the battery got warm. But having never had a battery of even 1500mah I don't know whats normal for this size nowadays.
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Old 10-06-2004, 11:28 PM   #9955
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The voltage of the pack not hooked up to the charger will not give you any good information and I would not recommend trickle charging any battery. Charge at 4-5 amps and if you don't have a peak charger, monitor the pack, when the voltage starts dropping then it's reached it's "peak" and should be done.
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Old 10-06-2004, 11:40 PM   #9956
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Unhappy My bad....

Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
The voltage of the pack not hooked up to the charger will not give you any good information and I would not recommend trickle charging any battery. Charge at 4-5 amps and if you don't have a peak charger, monitor the pack, when the voltage starts dropping then it's reached it's "peak" and should be done.
I should have said these readings were while the battery was still plugged into the charger (with the approriate led's flashing depending on charge mode)...if that makes any difference? Yes it is an automatic charger (a duratrax model).

Thanks for the advice...but may I ask why not trickle charging. I know it was a long time ago but back then it was always recommended to make the first one a trickle?
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Old 10-07-2004, 12:20 AM   #9957
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You want to charge your packs, even while cycling, like you'll charge them at a race. Same goes for discharging, try to match the amperage you think you're pulling during a race then discharge them at that rate. This will "train" your packs so they perform their best.
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Old 10-07-2004, 12:31 AM   #9958
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Thumbs up Thanks :) saves me a lot of time watching the charger that's for sure....

Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
You want to charge your packs, even while cycling, like you'll charge them at a race. Same goes for discharging, try to match the amperage you think you're pulling during a race then discharge them at that rate. This will "train" your packs so they perform their best.
Understood...so just try and find enough light bulbs/wattage to drain them in like 5-6 minutes?
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Old 10-07-2004, 12:42 AM   #9959
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yep, if your running a 540 class a 15-20 amp discharger will be plenty. Good luck!
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Old 10-07-2004, 08:05 AM   #9960
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Quote:
Originally posted by shooky
are you refering to the CVD's connection?
If so I have made sure they are built well and there is no loose pins around.
If you are refering to the center drive shaft I have installed the pins and have put the rubber bands around them also.
I do have the grafite drive shaft and I have tried so many other configurations and have still found there is glitching.
Is there a paint that eleminates radio interferance?
LOL
Another thing, I have heard that the reason my car glitches could be that I have the 93457 servo with the aluminum upgrade heatsink and that if the receiver wire is anywhere near it that the motor noice from the servo could cause the glitching. Does this sound like Hog wash to anyone else?
I just purchased a Hitec BB77 servo which is the low profile servo and I was wondering what kind of servos everyone else is running. I was also looking at the Futaba digital low profiles, but Hitec had better numbers and was alot cheeper. Any comments would be welcome.
Thanks
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