Yokomo MR-4TC SD

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Old 10-03-2004, 06:54 PM
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Default Glitching like MAD

Can anyone send me a picture of there setup so I can see where everyone puts there electric gear. I have tried three different setups and my RS still glitches like MAD. I have CA'd the chassis and have used fuel line to sheild the receiver wire and I want to rac3e my Yoko RS but I tried this weekend and IT GLITCHED BAD.
Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 10-03-2004, 07:24 PM
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I'm running RS.....no problems with glitching so far (touch wood). Here is how "stack" up my electronics.

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Old 10-03-2004, 07:27 PM
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ooops the photo..
Attached Thumbnails Yokomo MR-4TC SD-rs-3.jpg  
 
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Old 10-03-2004, 07:46 PM
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Talking Or you might even want to do it.....

Originally posted by tornado
ooops the photo..

neatly
Attached Thumbnails Yokomo MR-4TC SD-dsc00003.jpg  
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Old 10-03-2004, 09:08 PM
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My pic is on page 289... here is it http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...&postid=957763 No glitches with this car.
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Old 10-03-2004, 09:09 PM
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check the coupler pins that connect the dog bones to the axles. loose ones will cause glitching
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Old 10-03-2004, 09:23 PM
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Originally posted by ritchie
check the coupler pins that connect the dog bones to the axles. loose ones will cause glitching
You would be able to solve it by going to blades......no rattling noise.

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Old 10-03-2004, 09:24 PM
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Default Re: Or you might even want to do it.....

Originally posted by Mabuchi540
neatly
Yeah thanks mate . I've been trying to solve that gob of wire mess for ages and thats the best I could do for now. .....too many wires.

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Old 10-03-2004, 09:37 PM
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Default Re: Re: Or you might even want to do it.....

Originally posted by tornado
Yeah thanks mate . I've been trying to solve that gob of wire mess for ages and thats the best I could do for now. .....too many wires.

Bryan
Nothing that a bit of "open the servo/esc and shorten the wires" wouldn't fix.

Edit: Hang on a minute, speaking of keeping things short I notice from your pic the nut that retains the top of the shock has thread from the screw sticking out beyond the nut. Is this normal?

On my CGM (I've not long finished) once the nuts are in place there isn't any thread sticking out.

Last edited by Mabuchi540; 10-03-2004 at 10:34 PM.
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Old 10-03-2004, 10:24 PM
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That's normal. The CGM shock towers are thicker than the RS or SSG/Black towers. There-fore the screw will not protrude out as far. If you notice in my pic... I use CGM shock towers on my RS chassis. The screws do not stick out past the nut.
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Old 10-03-2004, 10:32 PM
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Originally posted by KilRuf
That's normal. The CGM shock towers are thicker than the RS or SSG/Black towers. There-fore the screw will not protrude out as far. If you notice in my pic... I use CGM shock towers on my RS chassis. The screws do not stick out past the nut.
Thanks dude, not really having spent much time (if any) looking at a SSG (to notice that) was wondering if perhaps I'd gotten shorter bolts by mistake.
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Old 10-03-2004, 11:36 PM
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Originally posted by KilRuf
Question for you guys.. does anyone know of any after market SD caster blocks that are 2?
Nope... only the stock 4deg parts that I know of...

Paul
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Old 10-04-2004, 12:51 AM
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Default Re: Re: Re: Or you might even want to do it.....

Originally posted by Mabuchi540
Nothing that a bit of "open the servo/esc and shorten the wires" wouldn't fix.

Edit: Hang on a minute, speaking of keeping things short I notice from your pic the nut that retains the top of the shock has thread from the screw sticking out beyond the nut. Is this normal?

On my CGM (I've not long finished) once the nuts are in place there isn't any thread sticking out.
Oh...that part..yeah....I've no problem with that....just that the screws are longer I guess.

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Old 10-04-2004, 01:54 AM
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Originally posted by tornado
I'm running RS.....no problems with glitching so far (touch wood). Here is how "stack" up my electronics.

Bryan
hello! i noticed that you have rpm ballcups connected to the front rayspeed towers. did you have to put spacers behind the ballstuds connecting the ballcups? i noticed before that the turnbuckles sweep forward from the c-hub to the thin rayspeed towers. installing rpm ballcups will cause it to bind. i have considered getting longer ballstuds to install to the tower and place spacers behind the ballstuds, making the turnbuckles more horizontal when viewed from above. i gave up looking for the longer ballstuds do you know if yokomo sells longer ballstuds?

in the cgm this is not an issue because of the thicker towers. i can't recall how it looked on the ssg.

i have a cgm and a bnew ssg chassis with a rayspeed conversion set which i gave up on before i could even get running. i dismantled it and used it as a parts source for my cgm. but since the rayspeed is still much lighter than the the cgm, i'm thinking of assembling it again. i got interested with the rayspeed 2 chassis too
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Old 10-04-2004, 02:06 AM
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Originally posted by chambalero
hello! i noticed that you have rpm ballcups connected to the front rayspeed towers. did you have to put spacers behind the ballstuds connecting the ballcups? i noticed before that the turnbuckles sweep forward from the c-hub to the thin rayspeed towers. installing rpm ballcups will cause it to bind. i have considered getting longer ballstuds to install to the tower and place spacers behind the ballstuds, making the turnbuckles more horizontal when viewed from above. i gave up looking for the longer ballstuds do you know if yokomo sells longer ballstuds?

in the cgm this is not an issue because of the thicker towers. i can't recall how it looked on the ssg.

i have a cgm and a bnew ssg chassis with a rayspeed conversion set which i gave up on before i could even get running. i dismantled it and used it as a parts source for my cgm. but since the rayspeed is still much lighter than the the cgm, i'm thinking of assembling it again. i got interested with the rayspeed 2 chassis too
I just use the normal black yokomo ball studs. Are these longer? I really dunno. Anyway I don't face those binding problems.

Bryan
 
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