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Old 09-30-2004, 01:20 AM   #9871
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tek Nickal
Nope, pic didn't show up.

Sorry ! here it is one more time .

Bryan
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Old 09-30-2004, 05:51 AM   #9872
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Quote:
Originally posted by lem2

Has anyone have problems withthe drive shaft in the cvd always breaking or falling off?
Yes, it's a common issue with CVD's in all cars (read not only yokomo). When they fall off, they pretty much cut the hub/knuckles in half, so you want to see it before it happens...

2 solutions:
1- regular visual inspections, retighten the btr screw as soon as you see it slide off
2- a TINY bit of thread lock on the btr... you ABSOLUTELY don't want any threadlock anywhere else than on the, well, thread... else it will risk locking the assembly, which will break under load.

You also want to use good quality grease in the joint... AE's or yok's graphite (black) grease works fine, but I recently switched to Tamiya's anti-wear grease on the advice on one of this board's user, and it makes on heck of a difference on rotating parts.

Last, Johnbull can tell you (once more) about his CVD boot which looks pretty cool AND useful

On a personal note: broke my personal track record, both in fastest lap AND 5mn time, with the yoke yesterday evening... I didn't have time to try all stuff I wanted to (namely diaphragm-less shocks), but I went back to a rear shock tower up front, installed a fifth body post (pics soon to come) and my first new ESC since 1999 (QC2 replaced my old trustworthy Cyclone)... The car was absolutely AMAZING and felt on rails, but with a lot of steering. I suspect the fifth body post cured some body/tire rubbing problems that I hadn't noticed before and occasionnaly caused unsespected handling issues. The mod is fairly easy to perform, I recommend it, drill a hole in the tower (if using a rear one), use an older body post with some plastic trimming, servo tape AND anti-rotation washers to prevent it from rotating, one screw and one it, et voila, a non-flexing body whose fenders will not rub on the front tires under load.

Later,
Paul
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Old 09-30-2004, 06:18 AM   #9873
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Quick tyre question....

I've just got this set of Yokomo tyres and the packaging around them was rather tight so when I took them out each tyre has a "flat spot".

I thought that putting them on the rim would bring them back into shape but it hasn't. Has this happened to anyone else and does it (as I assume) get spun out so to speak when the tyres expand under load?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-30-2004, 06:40 AM   #9874
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They should be fine, make sure you are using good inserts.
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Old 09-30-2004, 09:08 AM   #9875
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Default Just got a SD with the Rayspeed uprgrade package

Hello All,
I just found out about this web site and I am impressed with real knowledge that is here. I just bougth a used sd with the rayspeed upgrade. It came with a spare RS chassis and the original SD SSG chassis. I have been racing for about one season and fair well with a fully upgraded TC3, I wanted to try a new car and one of the TOP expert class guys was winning alot with his Yok but it was the CCG tub type chassis. I have just finished tear down and rebuilt and have taken much care as to putting all back together. It came with the ceramic bearing upgrade, a spare front one way, three spare arms, and a fairly good shape Alfa 2 body. I paid $230 shipped. The car is nearly new since my rebuild and it has my electronics in now. I wanted some advise as to what woulld you suggest for rollout for a 27T class on a tight quick track.
Here is what I am using besides the sd of course.
Airtroincs 93457Z with the aluminum case upgrade,
Novak XXL 75 FM
Airtronics M8- with the Novak synth module
LRP QC2 set for minimal brake and most punch
and mainly PARADIGM's Stock motors.
73 spur and 20T pinion with Take off cs 22's and 27's
Please feel free to email me if you don't want to eat up bandwidth. I use DSL not realy of an issue here.
Thanks all in advance.
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Old 09-30-2004, 01:38 PM   #9876
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Go here : you can calculate final gear ratio, top speed, roll out.

http://www.gearchart.com/index.cfm?f...n=chart.create
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Old 09-30-2004, 03:39 PM   #9877
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Cool Interesting CVDs

Tornado,

What type of CVDs (with blades) do you have on the front of your car? They look like they are Xray spring steel CVDs...
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Old 09-30-2004, 07:25 PM   #9878
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I've just noticed that the.....

main drive shaft isn't running true (puzzled look) as it was rolling fine (rolled it over a flat surface to make sure it was straight) before I put it in place.

The drive cups at either end perhaps? Anyone else notice this? Or is it a normal CGM/SSG thing that straightens out under speed?
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Old 09-30-2004, 07:39 PM   #9879
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mine wobbles too. nothing out of the ordinary there. the shaft will balance out with speed.
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Old 09-30-2004, 07:50 PM   #9880
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally posted by jiggen5354
mine wobbles too. nothing out of the ordinary there. the shaft will balance out with speed.
Thanks dude was hoping that was it. Still it would be nice to know why it does it in the first place lol.
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Old 09-30-2004, 07:54 PM   #9881
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Default Re: Interesting CVDs

Quote:
Originally posted by PitNamedGordie
Tornado,

What type of CVDs (with blades) do you have on the front of your car? They look like they are Xray spring steel CVDs...
Yep! they're X-ray T1 cvd and one-way outdrives. If you're interested 'bout this conversion...just take note that T1's cvd's don't come in equal length...the front (pt no.305200) is slightly longer than the rears (pt no. 305300). I'm using the front cvds and they fit very nicely. You must also replace the yoks one-way outdrives to the X-ray ones too as the yoke on the x-ray cvds is larger and won't fit the yoks out-drive. Have fun!

Bryan

Last edited by tornado; 10-01-2004 at 07:51 PM.
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Old 09-30-2004, 07:57 PM   #9882
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does it really matter? I have tried the standard drive cups and team suzuki light wieght ally cups and the main shaft still wobbles. give the throttle a prod and the shaft balances out.

as to why? magic
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Old 10-01-2004, 08:39 AM   #9883
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Hi Shooky,

welcome to the forum and this thread in particular... as mentioned earlier, it might not move as quick as some other cars', but I believe the information quality is better... fewer posts, but just as much info.

Anyways... can't help with the 27T gearing issue... I haven't run stock since the P2K was the hot ticket.

The SSG-SD is a kickass car, and I've only heard positive feedback about the RS conversion... I'm sure you'll love it!

Later,
Paul
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Old 10-01-2004, 09:01 AM   #9884
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Default Re: Just got a SD with the Rayspeed uprgrade package

If the motor is a monster stock based motor your overall gearing should be between 7.0 and 7.6. Since you said your track is kinda tight I would start around the 7.6 area and adjust up or down from there.
Quote:
Originally posted by shooky
Hello All,
I just found out about this web site and I am impressed with real knowledge that is here. I just bougth a used sd with the rayspeed upgrade. It came with a spare RS chassis and the original SD SSG chassis. I have been racing for about one season and fair well with a fully upgraded TC3, I wanted to try a new car and one of the TOP expert class guys was winning alot with his Yok but it was the CCG tub type chassis. I have just finished tear down and rebuilt and have taken much care as to putting all back together. It came with the ceramic bearing upgrade, a spare front one way, three spare arms, and a fairly good shape Alfa 2 body. I paid $230 shipped. The car is nearly new since my rebuild and it has my electronics in now. I wanted some advise as to what woulld you suggest for rollout for a 27T class on a tight quick track.
Here is what I am using besides the sd of course.
Airtroincs 93457Z with the aluminum case upgrade,
Novak XXL 75 FM
Airtronics M8- with the Novak synth module
LRP QC2 set for minimal brake and most punch
and mainly PARADIGM's Stock motors.
73 spur and 20T pinion with Take off cs 22's and 27's
Please feel free to email me if you don't want to eat up bandwidth. I use DSL not realy of an issue here.
Thanks all in advance.
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Old 10-01-2004, 12:04 PM   #9885
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Hi friends. greetings from Malta.

Our National championship season starts this Sunday so here's a bit of a preview of the situation.

As my son will be racing in the mod class - with his TC3 _ and I am also looking after another TC3 in that class, I have decided to run my CGM in the control 23 turn class.

I've been working on it in the last 10 or so days and am doing some pretty competitive lap times now. The car has always handled like a dream, but the latest addition of a Novak GTX speedo is certainly the icing on the cake. Set at programme 1 the car is suddenly half a second a lap quicker - consistantly.

But perhaps the nicest thing is the fact that this CGM is always right. Gone are the days of tweaked chassis and unreliable handling. How nice it is to just put the car on the track and it always right.

I'm certainly looking forward to Sunday.
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