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Old 09-28-2004, 04:07 AM   #9826
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Default shocks

What is the correct amount of rebound when bleeding cgm shocks?
So that they only just reach there full stroke on rebound or rebound smooth and fast? Or is it a case of horses for courses!
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Old 09-28-2004, 04:17 AM   #9827
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Default Re: shocks

Quote:
Originally posted by stinkypop
What is the correct amount of rebound when bleeding cgm shocks?
So that they only just reach there full stroke on rebound or rebound smooth and fast? Or is it a case of horses for courses!
You should be able to push the shock shaft all the way in without it feeling really stiff at the end and as long as there's no air in the shock you're fine. Rebound amount is going to depend on the condition of your O rings, and stiffness of your bladders.
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Old 09-28-2004, 04:20 AM   #9828
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Talking Here it is, finished at last my......

banana yellow CGM.

Not to bad for a first attempt at on-road I hope lol.
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Old 09-28-2004, 04:28 AM   #9829
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MAtt,

I also built HPI shocks in the past and they were very easy to bleed...

I think the trick is to have the bleed hole lower than the diafragm, but covered by the cap/body thread when on the verge of shock closure (not sure I'm understandable here)... Anyways... back to non-CV shocks, like the good old times when you had to work the shocks a few times before the tone, to get the emulsion going...

I also loved the losi shocks too, they were very consistent to rebuild due to the bottom-loading design. The yoke shocks are high quality (read sealing and smoothness) but a pain to build.

I'm done now!

Thanks,
Paul
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Old 09-28-2004, 04:31 AM   #9830
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Default Re: Here it is, finished at last my......

Quote:
Originally posted by Mabuchi540
banana yellow CGM.

Not to bad for a first attempt at on-road I hope lol.
Nice
Who makes those Vauxhall Bodies?
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Old 09-28-2004, 04:37 AM   #9831
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Default Re: Re: Here it is, finished at last my......

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Nice
Who makes those Vauxhall Bodies?
It's an HPI I got from Tower Hobbies, I do like the look of it but to be honest I got it because it was cheap.

I assume it's made for HPI cars as I had to cut away about 1cm from the rear wheel arches so they wouldn't rub. This is if you have originally cut out the scribed lines as indicated.

I probably could have gotten the same effect by cutting even bits off both the front and rear wheel arches of the car but as standard the front cut outs are just right so I left them.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXECF4&P=7

The link should work. The bit I had to cut is the part of the arch that curves forwards (back into the rear wheel).

Last edited by Mabuchi540; 09-28-2004 at 04:46 AM.
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Old 09-28-2004, 05:13 AM   #9832
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lonestar


to aswwhatever: learn to drive or buy a TL-01, dude... are you the same guy bashing the yoke on other threads? if yes, you're wasting both your and other's time and bandwidth... you'd better spend some time practicing at the track in order to wreck less and break fewer parts. honestly the car is no weaker no stronger than other top-notch cars on the market. In a whole season (carptet mod, pac-man style tracks) I broke a shock tower, three A-arms, one C-hub and a few dogbones... it's in the average.

Later,
Paul

btw this mazda is "painted" with Orion stickies I can do that...
Chill out dude I'm not the same guy bashing the yoks on other threads. I don't know who, but it's not me. I have 2 yoks mr4tc sd and I'm proud with both's performance compare to TRF 415 or TB Evo4.

About the weakness of yokomo parts, well ...... I'm sure I'm not the only one, so don't tell me to buy TL-01. Why don't you buy Super Hornet? About the sticker thing ? let me see yours. I want to see how cool it can be with orion sticker.
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Old 09-28-2004, 05:21 AM   #9833
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BTW, about the bandwidth thing: I'm using ADSL 512, so you don't have to worry about bandwidth I'm using. It's plenty.
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Old 09-28-2004, 06:30 AM   #9834
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asw7576,

all right, you're not the one then, sorry about the mistake; then the rest of that paragraph doesn't apply to you, so you don't need to consider it that way.

As far as andwidth is concerned... you have ADSL, cool... do you know how long it takes to download pictures like this for non-high bandwith connections, in a forum page? We all tend to put big pictures on this forum, and sometimes it's a pain to load.

Later,
Paul
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Old 09-28-2004, 06:34 AM   #9835
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BTW,

Here are a couple of pics of my older Schuie Axis' ... I don't spend as much time on my newer bodies, usually a consistent, three-color (orange, white, black) paintjob (with straight lines only) to be recognized on the races, is plenty enough. Bodies don't last long enough to justify more work.

Later,
Paul
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Old 09-28-2004, 06:37 AM   #9836
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The Yokomo SSG SD is definitely far weaker than most of it's competitors out of the box. Anyone who says otherwise is either deluded, or feels the need to mock other racer's driving abilities in order to inflate their own rather fragile egos.

I've been flamed on this thread in the past for saying so, but it makes no difference to the facts. Sure everyone who visits this thread on a regular basis loves the SD. But the truth remains that there's a small army of regular racers who couldn't improve their driving skills because their Yok was ALWAYS broke.

If you race on a Big open track, with really wide lanes and where the temps are always 25degrees +, you maybe forgiven for thinking that the SD is unbreakable. If however you have raced the Yok SSG SD indoors, with narrow lanes, solid track markings and the occasional 'lane jumper', you'll have found that the SD does indeed have it's weaknesses. Crikey - I've seen plenty of good, sponsored racers cursing their SD's fragile Arms, steering arms, c-hubs etc.

Definitely NOT a newbies car.

However, these kind of issues are history for me now, thanks largely to advice on this thread (despite the flames!!), I've changed to Yokomo's revised/improved G parts, team suzuki alloy, and many various other mods to make the car far better. Now I would say my car is durable enough. As a result of racing my RS Yok SD, my driving has become far more precise. I went the distance with the car and worked around the problems.

The SD is plenty fast and really easy to work on too. The cars design is very clever indeed. Oh, I forgot to mention that it is also one of the NICEST looking touring cars on the planet, too. The SD may not be the most popular car, but it's certainly one of the quickest in a competent racer's hands.
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Old 09-28-2004, 06:51 AM   #9837
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Quote:
Originally posted by Horatio
The Yokomo SSG SD is definitely far weaker than most of it's competitors out of the box. Anyone who says otherwise is either deluded, or feels the need to mock other racer's driving abilities in order to inflate their own rather fragile egos.
I'll take both, thank you

I race indoors only (except one race last month which was my first since last century), mostly during winter, on pacman-like track with wood boards to mark the track... and switzerland is kind of a cold country, you know... The car is just as durable as any Pro4, Tamiya Evo3 (haven't seen the 4 yet) or Tc3 that I've seen.

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree, since we've already had this discussion several times!

Later,
Paul

PS: sounds like you won't need my 27T's btw... oh well. good luck with the 19T class!
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Old 09-28-2004, 07:41 AM   #9838
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I've seen it so many times - a Yok SD steps out at the back and makes the lightest of contact with a track marking - broken rear arm. Clip a corner dot - broken c-hub. Collide into the back of another car - broken steering knuckle. Worn out diff outs - on stock motors after just a couple of months! Broken CVDs. C'mon!!! The car requires attention BEFORE you can get the most out of it.

In complete contrast you'll see TC3's, Axis, Evo's, Xrays, Missions etc straight out of the box and take that kind of punishment every race and break nothing over an entire season, let alone every race. Over a couple of years and mutiple different tracks, many angry racers - I know that my eyes and ears are not deceiving me. Ask any shop the amount and sort of parts they sell - it tells the same story. My 5 year old races an Axis with a Super Stock motor - the only part broken so far is a pulley. Now imagine him with an SD

I haven't been to Switzerland recently (haven't been skiing for a for a few years, though I have munched through various cheese sandwiches and a couple of Toblerones ) but TBH I find it difficult to beleive that the exact same issues haven't arisen over there too. Obviously not with you, but with other swiss racers.

BTW I thought I'd mentioned about the motors and confirmed that I'd be racing 19t on the forum? You must have missed it.

Thanks for your kind offer anyway

Regards

Horatio
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Old 09-28-2004, 07:55 AM   #9839
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Regarding the fragile arms you guys are talkin about, is it the same with the CGM version that has the graphite molded arms? or are they stronger but break easily too as they r more brittle?
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Old 09-28-2004, 08:09 AM   #9840
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The Graphite arms seem much more durable. I haven't broken a single Graphite component yet.

The fibre re-enforcement seems to really improve the stability of the component compared to the inferior, poor quality plastic components.

Your CGM should be good. CGM conversion kits are another story though!
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