R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-14-2004, 10:02 PM   #9721
Tech Master
 
Tek Nickal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Earth
Posts: 1,301
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
I prefer CGM towers. On my RaySpeed Chassis...
Do a trade.
Tek Nickal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2004, 10:06 PM   #9722
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Manitowoc WI
Posts: 385
Default

with all the talk of shock towers I wanted to show you the ones that I made, I believe that they offer the best options for both shock mounting and camber link adjustment.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg yokomo 007.1.jpg (79.5 KB, 203 views)
__________________
Fantom, BL Racing, Retired
jimnew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2004, 10:07 PM   #9723
Tech Master
 
Tek Nickal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Earth
Posts: 1,301
Default

Wow, if I paid you would you make a pair for me?
Tek Nickal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2004, 10:11 PM   #9724
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Manitowoc WI
Posts: 385
Default

That might be a possability
The one on my car is 3 mil thick and I only use it on the front because I feel that the stock rear CGM tower is better
__________________
Fantom, BL Racing, Retired
jimnew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2004, 11:14 PM   #9725
Registered User
 
ritchie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,044
Default Re: pops!!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
Thanks!!! I guess that is an expensive option to take since I have to buy additional stuff!

If I go for the Old RS Towers do I still need to change to sss(short). Maybe ti further lighten up my CGM I will just go with the Yokomo CF Towers from the Black special so that no ned to by additional shock parts.
or you could just use the long shock ends
ritchie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2004, 01:38 AM   #9726
Tech Master
 
johnbull's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Malta. G.C.
Posts: 1,762
Default

Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

The old style Rayspeed towers are pretty versatile. You can run virtually any shock with them. All you need to do is vary the lower ends. I run mine with the long ends front and rear and have plenty of travel and droop adjustment.

As for tyres, our track is very hard on tyres. Sorex 28s grip well but wear terribly and are very noisy. ING we have tried too. They last but don't give as much grip as Sorex.

The best all rounder we have found is the TakeOff in either 22 or 27.

We have just introduced a new class to our championships here. This is for pre 2000 non shaft drive cars, so I am resurecting one of my old YR4s. It's designed to be a cheap class - cheap control motor, cheap speedos and servos only, and 10 minute races.

Should be fun. Good thing I've still got plenty of YR4 parts.
johnbull is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2004, 03:23 AM   #9727
Tech Elite
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,366
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull


We have just introduced a new class to our championships here. This is for pre 2000 non shaft drive cars, so I am resurecting one of my old YR4s. It's designed to be a cheap class - cheap control motor, cheap speedos and servos only, and 10 minute races.

Should be fun. Good thing I've still got plenty of YR4 parts.
Awsome... too bad I sold my Schum Axis, that car rocked... and I don't live in Malta either

Paul
__________________
When the flag drops, the BS stops.

The train stops at the train station. The bus stops at the bus station. In my office I have a workstation.
Lonestar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2004, 10:12 AM   #9728
Tech Master
 
PitNamedGordie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Highwood, IL
Posts: 1,789
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to PitNamedGordie Send a message via Yahoo to PitNamedGordie
Post My new CGM

Hey all,

Iím a first time poster to this group, but reading this group convinced me to buy Yokomo...

I just bought a CGM and it is going together well. But during the build I noticed that the stock input shafts are HEAVY. Are the aluminum shafts significantly lighter?

Also, I shimmed the drive shaft per the manual but the drive train seems to stick at points. I tried different combos but nothing is as smooth as I'd like. Does anyone have any tips for shimming the input shafts/diffs? The problem seems to be with the rear gear box.

Thanks!!
PitNamedGordie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2004, 11:10 AM   #9729
Tech Elite
 
Horatio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,056
Default

Welcome to the thread!

The SD is a great car and nice to work with. The CGM Variant is no exception. Your transmission will feel a little tight when first built. However, from what you've said it's worth checking to make sure all the bearings are properly seated and that the bevel input bevelled pinion are pushed all the way onto the input shaft.

Once you've established everything is as it should be, turn the transmission over by hand. It may feel less than perfect at this stage, but it shouldn't take any undue amount of effort to turn the gears.

Just like any shaft driven car, the gears really benefit from being bedded in before racing. Some do this on the bench, others just do a couple of laps with a modified motor bolted in

The result should be a much more free transmission.

Hope this helps!
Horatio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2004, 02:57 AM   #9730
Tech Elite
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,366
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Hi PNG

welcome to yokoworld! This thread might not move as quick as some others on this forum, but the signal/noise ratio is also higher (although in some cases.... ahem)

Anyways... The SD is a very satisfying car, and once you get its tranny setup right it's a dream for efficiency and maintenance.

Tranny shimming: First check that the bearing are fully seated on the input gear, and I mean FULLY. it's a TIGHT fit and very easy not tu push them in 100%, we've all done this mistake, and then wondered why the heck the transmission was binding!!! Check that first. Stock shimming is a bit tight, but doesn't bind if assembled right.

Shim as per instructions, don't use any lube, unhook the dogbones (pop out camber link balls) and run it on the stand with an older motor for a few hours under 3 or 4 Volts (or a 4 cell pack). I do this on a T30 for 4hrs. The tranny feels very different after that, and the motor pulls considerably less current, which means it's "freeer".

If needed, once finished you can also remove shims, but only if you know what you're doing... I shim in order to get minimal play, both on the diffs and the input shafts. The trick is to find the correct shimming that guarantees minimal play and no binding. Since all parts are a little different from kit to kit, you have to experiment. I usually end up with both shims on the diff, but one less shim on the input gear. You also need to check gears more often fro stripped teeth if not running the "full" shimming.

I also recently switched to the graphite gears (which are only slightly more expensive) and they also make a big difference in noise (which means saved energy). Plus they're way stronger, which allows a little more play without stripping teeth.

Stock steel input shafts: yes they are a bit on the bulky side, but as long as your tranny isn't 99% perfect it's not worth changing them... If you feel the need to go ahead, Tobee Craft's lightened Al shafts are perfect for the job, and reasonably cheap (around 10-12 bucks). Plus the bling factor's always cool! When I put them on, I *think* I felt stronger accelerations, but it might just have been my brain playing tricks on me... nothing spectacular.

Enjoy the car,
Paul
__________________
When the flag drops, the BS stops.

The train stops at the train station. The bus stops at the bus station. In my office I have a workstation.
Lonestar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2004, 11:52 AM   #9731
Tech Master
 
PitNamedGordie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Highwood, IL
Posts: 1,789
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to PitNamedGordie Send a message via Yahoo to PitNamedGordie
Thumbs up

Thanks Lonestar and Horatio...

Your input was a great help. I will be breaking in the drive train tonight. The car is very solid; it's built like a tank...no flexing.

Can't wait to run it this weekend!


Thanks again...
PitNamedGordie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2004, 10:15 PM   #9732
Registered User
 
ritchie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,044
Default Re: My new CGM

Quote:
Originally posted by PitNamedGordie
Hey all,



Also, I shimmed the drive shaft per the manual but the drive train seems to stick at points.
Thanks!!
what i think it is is the outdrive cups on the diff rings, i assume the when you rotate the tires you get one full turn and then a little "stick" and then one turn and another one, what this is the the little bit of flashing you didn't tirm on the outdrive cup where it came apart from the parts tree. it is almost impossible to see with the diff together and even harder to trim assembled. take the diff apart, run your finger around the edge you will feel the flashing, trim it with the razor and you should be good to go,,, hope this helps

don't ask how i know this, but it took me about a hour to figure out,

Johnbull, thanks for the info on the tires. most guys are using the sorex 32 with the thin yok firm insert, and it works well, the ing tire new to this area, but from what i have seen its works very well on our track, its sealed pavement with poor traction until we spray grape soda down,
ritchie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2004, 04:43 AM   #9733
Tech Elite
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,366
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default Re: Re: My new CGM

Quote:
Originally posted by ritchie
what i think it is is the outdrive cups on the diff rings,
interesting... I had never thought about that one... will have to check it out...

Paul
__________________
When the flag drops, the BS stops.

The train stops at the train station. The bus stops at the bus station. In my office I have a workstation.
Lonestar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2004, 10:56 AM   #9734
IH
Tech Adept
 
IH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Germany
Posts: 131
Default

Hi guys!

Does anyone have a good setup for Sorex28 on carpet ( for CGM)?

Thanks for your input
IH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2004, 11:18 AM   #9735
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 373
Default

Yeah, I have the same question as IH, Sorex 28 on high grip carpet. Especially what insert? I try HPI green, but the car wants to traction roll in hairpin corner. Please help!
caveman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
yokomo or yokomo parts yokomo7 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 4 12-19-2009 08:45 PM
Yokomo is coming out with a new version of the bd : Yokomo BD 2 roadrashracing Electric On-Road 12 12-19-2007 07:08 AM
yokomo Aluminum Steering Bellcrank Posts and other yokomo spares hurley081182 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 2 02-27-2006 06:07 PM
Lots FS: CRC 3.2 & Yokomo YRX-12, Yokomo TC Tires, JR Receivers, New Motors, more TurboFC3S R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 15 09-22-2005 09:38 PM
WTB Yokomo 1/12 Mini...Trade for 1/10 Yokomo dynamic_e R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 07-12-2003 05:58 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:16 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net