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Old 09-04-2004, 01:13 AM   #9631
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Quote:
Originally posted by AzNDRAGster
A spur is inexpensive and its an easy fix without modifiying anything. Just your gearing, but you already have the correct range of pinions.
Yeah I figured it might be a good range to have, I just wish I could use more than one of them lol.

A quick calculation on the rollout calculator thing I found on the net shows that if I only use the 35t and the 3 spurs I do have I'm restricted to....

Gear ratio and rollouts of .....
4.706:1 / 42.725mm
4.572:1 / 43.981mm
4.437:1 / 45.314mm

Not that I've ever been that far into it before but I hope that's enough choice lol.

While I think about it....

Have just put in the radio gear and it's not until now (with the servo to anchor one end) that I realise just how sloppy the steering is. I've seen various comments about this in the thread but from new is it normal to have approx 1.5mm (either side of the car) freeplay in the steering?

In that while the turnbuckles are set to have the wheels pointing straight ahead, from this position the freeplay allows them to go from toe-in to toe-out ever so slightly.

So I'm wondering how does this/will this have much of an effect under power?

Last edited by Mabuchi540; 09-04-2004 at 06:32 AM.
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Old 09-05-2004, 12:51 AM   #9632
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glitching

has anyone had trouble with glitchig when they have swapped from the SSG to the CGM?
My car was fine with the SSG, but once i converted to the CGM, i was all over the place.
Tried all the usual things, even purchased a new radio, and speedy1
Another guy that i race with, ( in a different class) has found the same thing.
Anyone else............
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Old 09-05-2004, 01:07 AM   #9633
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i had a problem with that but noticed the antenna was touching the chassis, got it moved away and no glitching


i also put an extra layer of servo tape under the rx just in case

hope this helps
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Old 09-05-2004, 04:19 AM   #9634
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Default Re: Re: Part number?

Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
Yes the manual does not indicate a part number, you can use the ones in the TC3, or in the Tamiya Adjustable Balll Connector for Damper made of Delrin Item# 53488 Part#OP488

If still not avialable you could order the ones from RC-Square.com at RT.
Lem2

thanks for the input. Sorry I didn't see your post earlier! Will order the Tamiya ref... Thanks!

Paul
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Old 09-05-2004, 04:29 AM   #9635
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Default Re: Re: Re: Part number?

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Lem2

thanks for the input. Sorry I didn't see your post earlier! Will order the Tamiya ref... Thanks!

Paul
crap... not in stock at R10... and neither are the square refs...
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Last edited by Lonestar; 09-05-2004 at 04:35 AM.
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Old 09-05-2004, 11:58 AM   #9636
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Hey,

A quick question.

What is the transmission ratio on the CGM cars? I think it is 2.4375 or something like that.

Thanks, Mike
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Old 09-05-2004, 12:01 PM   #9637
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Quote:
Originally posted by Michal101
Hey,

A quick question.

What is the transmission ratio on the CGM cars? I think it is 2.4375 or something like that.

Thanks, Mike
2.4375 is HPI Pro 4's ratio.

The SD's are 2.35
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Old 09-05-2004, 12:26 PM   #9638
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Quote:
Originally posted by DOMOisCOOL
2.4375 is HPI Pro 4's ratio.

The SD's are 2.35
DOMO,

I appreciate the info and now I remember. The Cuda and TC3 are also 2.4375

Thanks, Mike
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Old 09-05-2004, 01:24 PM   #9639
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Talking

Sd

2,3529411764705882352941176470588

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Old 09-05-2004, 05:02 PM   #9640
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can any one please tell me the range in hardness to softness of the yokomo springs cos i have greens on the back and pinks on the front and my local track it sticks like glue but i also have yellows, reds and blues and am unsure which is what

many thanks guys
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Old 09-05-2004, 05:10 PM   #9641
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Sharpie, here ya go:

Yokomo
Spring Rating [lb/in]
Orange 18.87
Green 16.06
Pink 14.93
Yellow 14.71
White 12.94
Blue 12.12

Rayspeed
Spring Rating [lb/in]
Gray 19.90
Red 18.26
White 17.17
Yellow 14.87
Blue 14.29
Green 13.20


Blake
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Old 09-05-2004, 06:59 PM   #9642
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Default Re: Mmmmmm........

Quote:
Originally posted by Mabuchi540
I'm putting in the electrics now, (after having the motor cam machined out to take 540's) and low and behold the Yokomo pinions don't fit in the car.

I got 35-40 tooth Yokomo pinions and only the 35 fits because on the 36-40s the shaft of the pinion (where the grub screw goes) is to long and the pinion teeth hit the back of the chassis and if I got the shaft machined down so it would fit properly then it will eat into where the grub screw goes.

Anyone know any mods to make these ones fit that doesn't involve touching the chassis or machining the pinions?
i know you don't want to spend more money but i think the blue motor motor with the 540 stamp on it is what you want. also, one of our hobby shops was selling hpi pinions really really cheap so i bought a couple, but they were so deep that with the pinion touching the motor is still hit the chassis, i took a old motor mount from a ofna car, screwed a motor to it, and cut it down to a round shape same as the motor, now i have a motor spacer to move the motor forward a few mm's. it also helps keep the motor cool .
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Old 09-05-2004, 07:00 PM   #9643
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matt, did you ever get in contact with sprout.
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Old 09-05-2004, 07:32 PM   #9644
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okay okay I got one of these for indoor carpet racing and was wondering what hop ups or spare parts are needed for continual racing use....

its an sd ssg
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Old 09-05-2004, 07:43 PM   #9645
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shange chassis to balck edition (it is stiffer) buy and extra top deck and center stiffener and longer srews to bolt on the top deck and buy longer screws and 5 lock nuts for the center stiffeners (you will not use the aluminum spacers you will bolt the stiffeners to the chassis directly) Chris Tosolini did the mod for the center tiffeners and the top deck too
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