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Old 08-12-2004, 07:20 AM   #9361
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Default CGM, I'm making the swtch...

Despite my sucess with my SD Black (won the first point series at my track $$$), I decided to get the CGM conversion. I'm halfway through the transition, and I have a few questions:

- Are the included shock towers durable? In my worst wreck with my SD, I broke the front shock tower and was done. I replaced it with a rear shock tower and never experienced that problem again.

- Servo saver??? The conversion kit came with a servo saver, however the instructions say that if you want more precise steering, use the servo horn from the SD. The instructions go on to say that you risk destroying your servo gears in a bad wreck. What is everyone else doing for a servo saver on the CGM?

- Weight??? I run stock, and I believe the low weight of my SD Black contributed to my success. I weighed my SD Black yesterday before I began taking it apart, and it weighed a scant 1380 grams.

I can't help but wonder if the increased weight of the CGM will impact my ability to win races. I'm using Ti screws. I've got the Square Ti front and rear input shafts and my drivetrain is very free.

Last, I recall seeing a photo of Masami's CGM where the front brace that covers the steering components was removed. Is anyone else doing this, if so, what particular parts are needed.

BTW, if it makes any difference... I race stock on medium grip asphalt with foam tires (sometimes rubber).

Thanks!
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Old 08-12-2004, 07:41 AM   #9362
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Default Re: CGM, I'm making the swtch...

Quote:
Originally posted by Geppetto
- Are the included shock towers durable? In my worst wreck with my SD, I broke the front shock tower and was done. I replaced it with a rear shock tower and never experienced that problem again.
Yes they are! You don't have to run rear towers up front because the front tower has enough holes.

Quote:
Originally posted by Geppetto
- Servo saver??? The conversion kit came with a servo saver, however the instructions say that if you want more precise steering, use the servo horn from the SD. The instructions go on to say that you risk destroying your servo gears in a bad wreck. What is everyone else doing for a servo saver on the CGM?
Just use the one in the conversion, if you opt for the other one, get a servo saver that has a long arm like Tamiya's but that will remove the precise steering. If you don't hit the bariers and drive cleanly-- you can do it but just one clip and you will ruin your servo.

Quote:
Originally posted by Geppetto
- Weight??? I run stock, and I believe the low weight of my SD Black contributed to my success. I weighed my SD Black yesterday before I began taking it apart, and it weighed a scant 1380 grams.
Its about 1500gms +++ but you can use lightweight parts to lower down the scales, like Ti screws/input shafts, cvd's and driveshafts. It may weight more than the SD but its handling will certainly make up for it.

Quote:
Originally posted by Geppetto
-
I can't help but wonder if the increased weight of the CGM will impact my ability to win races. I'm using Ti screws. I've got the Square Ti front and rear input shafts and my drivetrain is very free.
same answer from above

Quote:
Originally posted by Geppetto

Last, I recall seeing a photo of Masami's CGM where the front brace that covers the steering components was removed. Is anyone else doing this, if so, what particular parts are needed.

BTW, if it makes any difference... I race stock on medium grip asphalt with foam tires (sometimes rubber).

Thanks!
No idea!

Hope you'll be happy and successful with your CGM!
Peace and Happy Racing!
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Old 08-12-2004, 09:03 AM   #9363
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lem2: Thanks. I'm hoping that I can hold a more consistent line because of the stiffer chassis.
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Old 08-12-2004, 09:39 AM   #9364
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Default set up sheets

hi i was just loking at soem setup sheets for the sd and wanted to no what the "suspesnion mount skid angle" is? is it the same as kick up? also how do you adjust it
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Old 08-12-2004, 10:02 AM   #9365
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also what does the car with standard from what it tells you in the instructions? and on this setup it says

"suspension mount skid angle
-> 1 "

what does this meen?
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Old 08-12-2004, 10:05 AM   #9366
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RE: Tosolini Setup (without the Dremel mods)...

Do I understand the sheet correctly...Front shocks (bladder) are long bodies with long shock ends? Rear shocks (bladder) are long bodies with short shock ends? What about oil/springs for stock (I would imagine heavier than sheet states.)? Thanks!
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Old 08-12-2004, 07:18 PM   #9367
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hEllO!
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Old 08-12-2004, 07:26 PM   #9368
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Quote:
Originally posted by Shrub
RE: Tosolini Setup (without the Dremel mods)...

Do I understand the sheet correctly...Front shocks (bladder) are long bodies with long shock ends? Rear shocks (bladder) are long bodies with short shock ends? What about oil/springs for stock (I would imagine heavier than sheet states.)? Thanks!
I don't think any of us have that set-up sheet. Where did you get it?
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Old 08-12-2004, 07:29 PM   #9369
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www.yokomo.tk
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Old 08-12-2004, 08:14 PM   #9370
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Agower,

I am pretty sure on the sd setup sheet "skid angle" is kick up. I beleive that some of the guys would put thin washers under the suspension mount to increase the kick up.

Thanks,

Blake
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Old 08-12-2004, 08:46 PM   #9371
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Quote:
Originally posted by Shrub
RE: Tosolini Setup (without the Dremel mods)...

Do I understand the sheet correctly...Front shocks (bladder) are long bodies with long shock ends? Rear shocks (bladder) are long bodies with short shock ends? What about oil/springs for stock (I would imagine heavier than sheet states.)? Thanks!
Foam/carpet stock...

Actually, I think the "SSS" bodies are short and the "SS" bodies are long? Anyone? The pistons are not labeled either? #2 is a 2-hole? #3 is a 3-hole? I am going to try a shock setup similar to the TC3 (short bodies w/long shock mount). Front: 80wt, #2 piston, Yellow spring. Rear: 60wt, #2 piston and a Purple spring. (??)
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Old 08-12-2004, 09:02 PM   #9372
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Quote:
Originally posted by Shrub
Foam/carpet stock...

Actually, I think the "SSS" bodies are short and the "SS" bodies are long? Anyone? The pistons are not labeled either? #2 is a 2-hole? #3 is a 3-hole? I am going to try a shock setup similar to the TC3 (short bodies w/long shock mount). Front: 80wt, #2 piston, Yellow spring. Rear: 60wt, #2 piston and a Purple spring. (??)
sss are the short shock bodies.

The Yokomo pistons do have numbers on them, very small, you have to look very closely.

That should be a good starting point, good luck.
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Old 08-12-2004, 09:43 PM   #9373
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Quote:
Originally posted by Shrub
Foam/carpet stock...

Actually, I think the "SSS" bodies are short and the "SS" bodies are long? Anyone? The pistons are not labeled either? #2 is a 2-hole? #3 is a 3-hole? I am going to try a shock setup similar to the TC3 (short bodies w/long shock mount). Front: 80wt, #2 piston, Yellow spring. Rear: 60wt, #2 piston and a Purple spring. (??)
The "SSS" bodies are the short. For everything else, I'm still trying to find out answers myself .

- JaYbEe
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Old 08-12-2004, 10:09 PM   #9374
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I just purchased the ssg and am very pleased with it. It seems noone is running that chassis anymore. I was torn between the rayspeed conversion or the cgm. I run carpet and would like to hear what you guys recommend.
Also to get ascociated shock springs to fit do you have to use the longer shock bottoms? There doesnt seem to be any adjustment with the short ends.
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Old 08-13-2004, 01:10 AM   #9375
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no yuo have to use te rayspeedo option spring cups.
not sure but i think the part number is rs18?
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