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Old 08-09-2004, 08:14 AM   #9271
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can people please stop asking if he has got them the right way round and if he has tried swapping them over, as it has been said about 10 times about this problem in the last 2 pages and he has answerd to each one nearly, saying YES he has got them the right way roudn and tried swapping the side over and the problem was til on the same side. which is why i am convinced that its a bad outdrive, slightly shorter than normal.

like i said try swapping the front and rear diffs and try again. i may be wrong but i very much doubt it.


thanks!!
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Old 08-09-2004, 08:27 AM   #9272
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Quote:
Originally posted by agower
can people please stop asking if he has got them the right way round and if he has tried swapping them over, as it has been said about 10 times about this problem in the last 2 pages and he has answerd to each one nearly, saying YES he has got them the right way roudn and tried swapping the side over and the problem was til on the same side. which is why i am convinced that its a bad outdrive, slightly shorter than normal.

like i said try swapping the front and rear diffs and try again. i may be wrong but i very much doubt it.


thanks!!
A Gower
The reason we keep asking this questions is because that is the most likely answer, without knowing for sure that he has checked this particular part which is a different size front to rear then we cannot help.

Still sounds like you have something somwhere the wrong way round.

I know what you mean about the droop but use the droop gauge and set the droop and then make sure your shock lengths are the correct length each side (which im sure considering you mentioned calipers you have done)
I had this problem when I last rebuilt my diff that I had too much droop so my diff made this strange noise. I suddenly realised that i had pretty much the same problem that you have. Make sure that;
You shocks are attached to the car and set to the correct lengths and positions
You droop is correct acording to the droop gauge.

If i can think of anything else I will let you know, as i keep staring at my car to try work out whats up with yours
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Old 08-09-2004, 09:07 AM   #9273
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Quote1

Quote:
Originally posted by agower can people please stop asking if he has got them the right way round and if he has tried swapping them over,

Quote 2
Quote:
Originally posted by agower like i said try swapping the front and rear diffs and try again

looks like you agree with us, my friend... he needs to keep on swapping stuff around until he's got it figured out... I'll take the bets... it's either 1) wrong axles on wrong end 2) bearing not seated.

It's molded stuff... parts aren't generally out of whack *that* bad. It's an assembly issue. And sorry to insist, but we haven't had any confirmation he has compared wheel axles... we've only heard about calipers, dogbones and CVD so far...

May I say that the SD is probably the most beautifully manufactured DTM I've assembled in a while... everything falls right into place.... like it should on a Japanese kit!

Good luck,
Paul
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Old 08-09-2004, 09:18 AM   #9274
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Let's see, if you put the rear axles in the front hub, they would be too long and the axle would move back and forth (lots of slop). If you put the front axle in the rear hub it would be too short and you would not be able to install the hex.

It looks like to me that he needs to set the correct droop, start with about 6 in the front and 5 in the rear. Also the problem could come from the camber links in front being too long, pushing out the front C Blocks, thus making one or both dog bones extend outward. Check to see that both front camber links are equal in measurment. Make sure they are installed in the same position left and right.
I hope this helps.
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Old 08-09-2004, 09:31 AM   #9275
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SELLING ...... maybe

no response on this one huh?
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Old 08-09-2004, 09:39 AM   #9276
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Mabuchi540,
I think Ritchie is right, after inspect your picture, your car has way too much front droop, From the drive shaft angle, I think you have front droop#1 or#2 on the droop gauge,no one use that much front droop. The usual front droop is about #6, that '"2mm" droop screw thing is good for the rear, and the front when you use the lower holes of the C-hub(99% of people use this). But the instruction calls for the upper hole, Yes I think that is a mistake in the instruction( I have build more than 15 RC car, yet to see a 100% error free instruction manual), But if you put the front shocks on, the shock will effectly limit the droop, and problem solved.
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Old 08-09-2004, 11:11 AM   #9277
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Default Gearing for the V2 revoulution element 19T

Hi Guys, this is my first post so here goes.

i run a
Yokomo SSG SD Andy East V1.3 Tub
Novak GT7
Ko Propo 2123 digital servo
GP 3300 SMC matched cells
Orion Core stock Motor
spur 70 pinion 24

and for the track i race at for stock the gearing is whats needed.

I have just bought an Orion Element 19T revolution motor and still using the 70 spur what pinion should i be looking at.

the track is a mixture of 2 straights about 40 yards long and a middle section usually of a hairpin, chicane and another corner

any advice would be gratefully received

thanks
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Old 08-09-2004, 11:22 AM   #9278
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Default Re: Gearing for the V2 revoulution element 19T

Quote:
Originally posted by sharpie
Hi Guys, this is my first post so here goes.

i run a
Yokomo SSG SD Andy East V1.3 Tub
Novak GT7
Ko Propo 2123 digital servo
GP 3300 SMC matched cells
Orion Core stock Motor
spur 70 pinion 24

and for the track i race at for stock the gearing is whats needed.

I have just bought an Orion Element 19T revolution motor and still using the 70 spur what pinion should i be looking at.

the track is a mixture of 2 straights about 40 yards long and a middle section usually of a hairpin, chicane and another corner

any advice would be gratefully received

thanks
Try a 26 to 27 pinion you should be at top end near the end of the straight.
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Old 08-09-2004, 02:00 PM   #9279
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i would have thought done 2 or 3 teeth on the pinion.
would going higher burn the comm?

maybe my explanantion of the track was wrong, more corners than straights, need the punch out of corners
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Old 08-09-2004, 02:13 PM   #9280
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does the new cgm with all the graphite parts included even come with the new arms. Haha that would suck if it didnt. You would have to buy a whole new set of arms..


Mabuchi are you sure the standard setup calls for 2 mm drop.... That is quit alot. most people run in the 4-7 range.

Last edited by shortygy; 08-09-2004 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 08-09-2004, 02:40 PM   #9281
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have you got a picture of these new arms as i have not seen or headr a thing about them.

no surprise really we wont be able to buy them in england for another 3 months after you can
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Old 08-09-2004, 04:42 PM   #9282
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Default pimp my ride

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Old 08-09-2004, 04:44 PM   #9283
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Quote:
Originally posted by sharpie
i would have thought done 2 or 3 teeth on the pinion.
would going higher burn the comm?

maybe my explanantion of the track was wrong, more corners than straights, need the punch out of corners
Every motor is different.
We are running 19 turns (Reedy) at 6.0 on a track about the size you mentioned. What are the fast guys at your track running their 19 turns at? Other cans range from 6.8 to 6.2, and some people are running as high as 5.8. By the way, the outside track temp has been around 100 deg, and we have been running this motor since June.
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Old 08-09-2004, 04:46 PM   #9284
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Default PIMP MY RIDE

I HAVE MORE PICS, BUT THERE TOO BIG I HAVE TO FIGURE A WAY TO TO COMPRESS THEM.
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Old 08-09-2004, 04:54 PM   #9285
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Quote:
Originally posted by agower
have you got a picture of these new arms as i have not seen or headr a thing about them.

no surprise really we wont be able to buy them in england for another 3 months after you can
New arms will be available in a few weeks, you won't see them in the kit though.
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