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Old 08-01-2004, 11:36 PM   #9151
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My 70% hopped up CGM weighs 1,480g without body and transponder...dunno 'bout SSG. That fibrelyte kit is 'bout 100g off my CGM I can go for a RS.

Bryan
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Old 08-01-2004, 11:46 PM   #9152
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Quote:
Originally posted by tornado
My 70% hopped up CGM weighs 1,480g without body and transponder...dunno 'bout SSG. That fibrelyte kit is 'bout 100g off my CGM I can go for a RS.

Bryan
100gms is a lot!!! My CGM weights 1,49++ with body and transponder! Thats with alloptions!!!

Great chassis!!! Exotic!!!
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Old 08-02-2004, 01:03 AM   #9153
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
with all the people that have interest in this chassis, why hasn't anyone in the UK started selling them? I understand the manufacturer doesn't want to deal with the U.S. market but someone could be a middle man and make some money by selling them to us.
i think its beacuse there made to order he doesnt have a stock of them, you lot are lucky, yes we can get the fibrelyte but there are hundreds of things for it that we cant get in the uk
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Old 08-02-2004, 01:34 AM   #9154
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Leochan: SD 2.5 ratio

Any advantage to change to 2.5 ratio? Have a lot of HK racers using it?
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Old 08-02-2004, 02:03 AM   #9155
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Howdy yall

CGM Vs SSG weight: My SSG wighs 1520 gms ready to run, that includes some (heavier than plasitc) alloy parts,an older MG servo, personal transponder, 3000HV's, a Mazda6 body, rubber tires, plus some PK plugs, a fan, and the likes...

2.5 ratio: this has been discussed before... some said it was the bomb, others including me said there was absolutely no mechanical justification to any improvement over the stock ratio, and that the same result could be achieved by changing the spur/pinion combo... spend the cash, try it, and let us know what you think.

Cracked knuckles around ball studs: you wouldn't have overtightened these studs, Mabuchi540, would you?

Still debating whether or not to give a shot to the CGM, and cannibilize it later on of all these graphite parts to throw them on my SSG...

Later
Paul
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Old 08-02-2004, 02:09 AM   #9156
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Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
100gms is a lot!!! My CGM weights 1,49++ with body and transponder! Thats with alloptions!!!

Great chassis!!! Exotic!!!
Wow 149+g fully equiped ! Now that is light. I'm running 1580g with body and if add on the transponder.....1600g. What options have you done and the electronics....just wanna compare....I've changed the output shafts, graphite center shaft, lightweight axles, lightened dogbone, Ti screws all round, RS rear shock tower.....and is still running heavy or is my moms kitchen scale screwed ?

Bryan

Last edited by tornado; 08-02-2004 at 02:15 AM.
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Old 08-02-2004, 02:14 AM   #9157
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Internal 2.5 ratio.......is the same question as "Is it any better for me to run my car with this spur size with this pinion size" ? ....just another option to get the running ratio.

Bryan
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Old 08-02-2004, 03:39 AM   #9158
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Default Re: Re: Does anyone know if you can get better......

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Originally posted by Lonestar
Horatio, this one's for you...

seriously... that's weird...

Paul


Mabuchi 540:

Well, I run MR4 alloy steering arms. They are a little heavier, but offer other advantages besides durability alone. Plus they work for me!

When starting off a new thread in a composite component, like where the kingpin goes into a steering arm/knuckle for the first time for example, it's a good idea to clear the thread as you go. You can do this by backing off the kingpin 1 full anticlockwise turn for every 3 full clockwise turns - just like when you're tapping a thread with an actual tap.

Also, when re-assembling it helps save wear and tear on the threads if you do the following:

When putting the threaded screw/king pin etc back in, LIGHTLY & SLOWLY turn the screw Anticlockwise (yes - the wrong way!) and listen for when you hear a 'tick' or 'click' sound. This is the point at which the screw drops into the existing thread, so stop turning at this exact point. Now you can tighten it up clockwise as normal, knowing that you're using the same thread as last time - thus saving wear and tear on the components and preventing premature failure of the thread. This is particually useful on gearbox housings.
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Old 08-02-2004, 03:41 AM   #9159
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Matt I was just wondering with the 2 last setups that you posted, that I have on my site www.yokomo.tk. I was wondering about the outer hinge pin placement, on the front c hub and the rear hubs. you dont sepcify a hole there. also with the shims on the knuckles in between the front c-hub.... Could you please just interpert that for me to clarify

Thanks Greg
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Old 08-02-2004, 03:51 AM   #9160
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Quote:
Originally posted by shortygy
Matt I was just wondering with the 2 last setups that you posted, that I have on my site www.yokomo.tk. I was wondering about the outer hinge pin placement, on the front c hub and the rear hubs. you dont sepcify a hole there. also with the shims on the knuckles in between the front c-hub.... Could you please just interpert that for me to clarify

Thanks Greg
sure, I used the lower holes in both the front and rear. The shim should be above the steering knuckle.
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Old 08-02-2004, 04:35 AM   #9161
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Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
could you give me info on the weight difference from stock SSG, CgM to your full fiberlyte set up? ready to run?

Thanks!
hey lem if you're concerned about weight you might want to get my bnew rayspeed chassis with spare i've basically given up on the yoke before i even started
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Old 08-02-2004, 04:57 AM   #9162
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Quote:
Originally posted by tornado
Wow 149+g fully equiped ! Now that is light. I'm running 1580g with body and if add on the transponder.....1600g. What options have you done and the electronics....just wanna compare....I've changed the output shafts, graphite center shaft, lightweight axles, lightened dogbone, Ti screws all round, RS rear shock tower.....and is still running heavy or is my moms kitchen scale screwed ?

Bryan

Titanim screws all around, Ti dog bones, drive shaft and input shafts front and rear, Graphite prop shaft. For electronics I use 9550, quantum comp and KO's 302 reciever. And remove some material underneath the chassis, strategically. Also lightened the battery holder to it maximum limit.

Something to ponder on: If I use a lighter oil will it make my car lighter???? its a joke we say to a noob!

Peace guys and happy racing!
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Old 08-02-2004, 05:02 AM   #9163
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Default Re: Re: Re: Thanks

Quote:
Originally posted by lem2


Something to ponder on: If I use a lighter oil will it make my car lighter????

that's a good one!!!

The mods you've done to your car to achieve a lower weight are far from being inexpensive... I think Yokomo made a commercial mistake when releasing such a great, but heavy car... I hope they'll release a lighter version soon!

Later,
Paul
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Old 08-02-2004, 06:39 AM   #9164
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Default Re: Re: Re: Does anyone know if you can get better......

Quote:
Originally posted by Horatio


Mabuchi 540:

Well, I run MR4 alloy steering arms. They are a little heavier, but offer other advantages besides durability alone. Plus they work for me!

When starting off a new thread in a composite component, like where the kingpin goes into a steering arm/knuckle for the first time for example, it's a good idea to clear the thread as you go. You can do this by backing off the kingpin 1 full anticlockwise turn for every 3 full clockwise turns - just like when you're tapping a thread with an actual tap.

Also, when re-assembling it helps save wear and tear on the threads if you do the following:

When putting the threaded screw/king pin etc back in, LIGHTLY & SLOWLY turn the screw Anticlockwise (yes - the wrong way!) and listen for when you hear a 'tick' or 'click' sound. This is the point at which the screw drops into the existing thread, so stop turning at this exact point. Now you can tighten it up clockwise as normal, knowing that you're using the same thread as last time - thus saving wear and tear on the components and preventing premature failure of the thread. This is particually useful on gearbox housings.
See that's the sort of thing they should have in the manual especially if you've never built with this material before.

Thank you.
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Old 08-02-2004, 06:40 AM   #9165
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Quote:
Originally posted by lem2

Titanim screws all around, Ti dog bones, drive shaft and input shafts front and rear, Graphite prop shaft. For electronics I use 9550, quantum comp and KO's 302 reciever. And remove some material underneath the chassis, strategically. Also lightened the battery holder to it maximum limit.

Something to ponder on: If I use a lighter oil will it make my car lighter???? its a joke we say to a noob!

Peace guys and happy racing!
it will, same as if you run softer tyres and inserts
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