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Old 06-30-2004, 03:00 AM   #8761
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Quote:
Originally posted by Horatio
And the Rayspeed looks faster!!
Rayspeed eh......hmmmmm...... I still prefer the more rigid CGM chassis
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Old 06-30-2004, 03:08 AM   #8762
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Quote:
Originally posted by tornado
Rayspeed eh......hmmmmm...... I still prefer the more rigid CGM chassis
with the countersunk screws mod, the double-deck car is considerably more rigid (rigider?) than the stock setup... and since it's also quite a few grams lighter and waaaaaay sexier (ssg looks cool ) than a tub-chassis... it's a worthwhile contender... remember than super-rigid cars are not the best choice for everybody!

however, I'm sure the CGM is an excellent car. Actually I'm even thinking about buying one... I don't know if it'll be to "graphitise" my SSG or to try it as such, but I might buy a CGM kit in the next few weeks... the problem is, I'm the only guy in my area to run a yokomo any more, so I'm beginning to feel alone...

Later
Paul
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Old 06-30-2004, 03:35 AM   #8763
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lonestar
Chris

Tweaking double-deck cars: Here's a tip to minimize tweak intake (or even suppress it): use countersunk screws on the top deck, without countersinking the deck itself. The screws then "Self-center" and put a huge pressure on the deck, preventing it to move sideways... et voila, no more tweak. I've used this method for a few months now, and it works great. No more funny handling after a crash. The first few crashes after I did this mod, I used to pull out the car and check for tweak on the tweak board, and there was none... I don't even check anymore!

Droop screws: adjusting schock length works... but I still think droop screws are easier to use... When you change shock tower locations, for instance, you have to think it all over again.

Ackerman: can someone please discuss the influence of ackerman (the difference between steering wheels angle) on handling? I've never really understood it... thanks!

Later yall

Paul
Tweak: Yeah I've heard people complain that a counter sunk top deck makes tweak worse. Personally, I find my doubled counter sunk top deck rarely tweaks. I'd have thought that self tapping screws, being conical shaped, would self centre either way regardless of the whether the holes themselves were counter sunk or not - provided of course that the holes were drilled in EXACTLY the right place!

Akerman: By reducing akerman, you can make your steering have more intial bite and feel more aggressive. Personally I like the more progressive feel I get when I use a decent amount of akerman. It can be adjusted by the position of the track rods on the steering arms, the length of the track rods, the length of the centre track rods, the type of steering arms used (I use MR4 alloy steering arms -) and to some extent by using more or less toe-in/toe-out.

Hope this helps. See - I don't always whinge
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Old 06-30-2004, 03:49 AM   #8764
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Quote:
Originally posted by tornado
Rayspeed eh......hmmmmm...... I still prefer the more rigid CGM chassis
The CGM is obviously a great car - much like the TC3 is a great car, my previous touring car. But for now, I'd like to stick with my current RS SD which I only got to drive towards the end of the season. Next season I would like to beat my personal bests that I acheived with the TC3.

The example I have I bought from Randman who now drives Losi XXX - S. He actually doubled the topdeck and beleive me, it's plenty stiff!! I have a hard job imagining that the car could possibly flex at all on the track, though I've heard randman himself say that it's not quite as stiff as a CGM. But with the double top deck, I doubt there's much in it - but it's nice and light and looks the 'mutt's nuts' - ideal for stock class racing.
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Old 06-30-2004, 06:07 AM   #8765
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Default front hardend universals

Do I need to grind the end of the dogbone if I'm not running a one-way diff? Also, what tool is everyone using to grind down the hardend steel?

I just bought a set of hardned universals from SpeedTech R/C, although I haven't installed them yet. I guess I've been lucky... I've broken at least 4 front arms, but my universals haven't bent yet.
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Old 06-30-2004, 06:35 AM   #8766
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Tweak is not an issue for me, the car can take small crash without tweaking , only some very big crash may cause problem, but that doesn't happen too often. So the obvious question is(for me) flexable chassis vs stiff chassis on outdoor asphalt. The RS chassis has some flex, which generates more grip and make the car more forgiving. TC3(my old car)is very stiff, much like CGM, and I am faster with my RS SD, that 's why I'm hesitate to change to CGM. Any suggestions will be wellcome & thanks.
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Old 06-30-2004, 08:20 AM   #8767
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Default Re: front hardend universals

Quote:
Originally posted by Geppetto
Do I need to grind the end of the dogbone if I'm not running a one-way diff? Also, what tool is everyone using to grind down the hardend steel?

I just bought a set of hardned universals from SpeedTech R/C, although I haven't installed them yet. I guess I've been lucky... I've broken at least 4 front arms, but my universals haven't bent yet.
I don't think you will need too, install them, at least the side with the nut on the diff and see if you have clearance. If it bottoms out grind some of the ball off with a grinder or use a Dremel. I use a bench grinder at home and a cup of water to cool the metal off. It can get pretty hot in your hands.
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Old 06-30-2004, 10:43 AM   #8768
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Default trigga!

trigger is a punk shit talker.
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Old 06-30-2004, 11:02 AM   #8769
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Hi friends. greetings from Malta.

CHRIS Tossolini.

Thanks first of all for all your help. The Yoke fraternity here has all been helpful - I have been contributing to RCtech for 4 or 5 years now. You get the odd....odd ball but in general the chat is friendly and helpful.

Best of luck with your new team. I hear it's Corally. That's great news. My company is the Corally distributor in Malta. My son Josh has won 6 National championships using Corally motors and cells exclusively in his TC3s, and we have excellent feedback and support from Constant and the boys - and girls at the factory in Holland. Perhaps we will cross paths again.

I have always used Corally motors and cells on my Yokes.

The Assassin is a fabulous piece of kit and beautifully engineered. I'm sure you will manage to wind it up to go quicker than most - if your success with Yokes is anything to go by.

AE SHOCKS AND SPRINGS>

I have used AE shocks and retainers on my Yokes all along. I have even used complete AE shocks though I presently have a set of Corally Assassin shocks fitted to my Rayspeed SD - with AE green springs all round.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 06-30-2004, 11:29 AM   #8770
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Quote:
Originally posted by caveman
Tweak is not an issue for me, the car can take small crash without tweaking , only some very big crash may cause problem, but that doesn't happen too often. So the obvious question is(for me) flexable chassis vs stiff chassis on outdoor asphalt. The RS chassis has some flex, which generates more grip and make the car more forgiving. TC3(my old car)is very stiff, much like CGM, and I am faster with my RS SD, that 's why I'm hesitate to change to CGM. Any suggestions will be wellcome & thanks.
Personally, I prefer the CGM chassis because of its consistancy. Because the chassis does not tweak (or tweaks very little) it is more consistant, handling wise, from corner to corner and run to run. Last year at the ROAR regionals I ran the SSG car and had to check the tweak after EVERY run, even if I didn't hit anything, because the car used a double deck chassis. This year at the regionals I ran the CGM, and after a weekend's worth of racing I checked the tweak when I got home and the car was still flat as a board.

As to setup, I've decided to trust the Yok engineers and stick w/ the CGM rather than go back to the SSG. Masami was very fast at pre-worlds with the CGM (2nd place ) and so the key to setting it up properly really lies in taking the time to learn how to setup the car and test different settings.
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Old 06-30-2004, 12:17 PM   #8771
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hey tj and chris, go find a forty or something you alchoholics.
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Old 06-30-2004, 12:50 PM   #8772
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Default hey tj and chris, go find a forty or something you alchoholics

Trigger,

Why don't you sign your emails or use your real name as your handle?
Thats pretty sad on your part that you cant back up your words.

Trigger aka the horse of roy rogers or is that silver....no its trigger..thats funny...haha...i think silver is the lonerangers horse.

My advice to you is to quit talking shit on people, it really solves nothing. If you have a problem with someone let them know to that persons face and resolve the problem. Maybe you will fight, maybe you will resolve your problems or whatever conflict of interest you might have.whatever at least you will have degnity and respect at the least.

i'm not trying to hate over some rc cars.

That was intense, i need a drink,

TJ
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Old 06-30-2004, 12:54 PM   #8773
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Nice language guys.

Can we get on with the Yokomo thread now?
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Old 06-30-2004, 06:10 PM   #8774
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Quote:
Originally posted by racenut123
Nice language guys.

Can we get on with the Yokomo thread now?
It's sad when we need a schumacher guy to come on here to tell everyone to behave
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Old 06-30-2004, 06:58 PM   #8775
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I am having problems getting 4 degrees of droop in the rear of my car. Any suggestions would help?
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