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Old 06-29-2004, 08:06 PM   #8746
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speaking of steering, when i built my car, i used the left side bell crank to attach the link to instead of running it under the shaft. i used a "tall" ball stud to keep the tie rod from hitting the shaft and aligned the servo arm straight up and down with the wheels straight, what are the pro'/cons of using this setup vs. kit setup.
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Old 06-29-2004, 08:25 PM   #8747
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
The Rayspeed conversion is a good car but it is still a double deck car and it is possible for it to take a tweek in a wreck. I think for racing on all surfaces the CGM is better because it is stiffer and it doesn't seem to tweek after a wreck. The only downside is that the CGM is pretty heavy where as with the Rayspeed car we had to add weight to bring it up to legal weight.
Yeah! CGM is pretty heavy I'll say...... I managed to bring it down to 1580g without transponder and it is an expensive exercise..
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Old 06-29-2004, 09:00 PM   #8748
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Quote:
Originally posted by ritchie
speaking of steering, when i built my car, i used the left side bell crank to attach the link to instead of running it under the shaft. i used a "tall" ball stud to keep the tie rod from hitting the shaft and aligned the servo arm straight up and down with the wheels straight, what are the pro'/cons of using this setup vs. kit setup.
There's not any performance gain but you can use a turnbuckle instead of the molded link between the bellcrank now. You can adjust the ackermann of your steering by lengthening or shortening the turnbuckle.
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Old 06-29-2004, 09:23 PM   #8749
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
I know the servo arm is supposed to be angled but I don't remember by how much. Check your instructions, they should tell you. Any reason you're not using the supplied servo saver? I haven't had a problem with mine.

Which do u use CGMor SSG servo horn?


I can't the spring around the collar.
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Old 06-29-2004, 09:32 PM   #8750
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Quote:
Originally posted by ritchie
speaking of steering, when i built my car, i used the left side bell crank to attach the link to instead of running it under the shaft. i used a "tall" ball stud to keep the tie rod from hitting the shaft and aligned the servo arm straight up and down with the wheels straight, what are the pro'/cons of using this setup vs. kit setup.
ritchie: interesting you mentioned that. i am just about to do the same mod to my steering. i also saw a pic of masami's ride in a japanese magazine with this same mod. im curious as well to know what benefit it would have. has anyone done this already?
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Old 06-29-2004, 10:20 PM   #8751
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
Well it's the same basic concept as setting droop with droop screws. You are just unscrewing or screwing the shock ends until you get the droop that you want. So for instance.. saying that you have regular SD shock towers (not RaySpeed as they require longer shocks). Start all your shocks at the same length front and rear. Say, 61mm for example like mine. Drive the car. Then adjust shock length by .5mm until you get the reaction that you are looking for. Or use a droop guage and unscrew the ends til you get the droop that you want. For me, I'll just keep screwing in or screwing out the shock ends by .5mm until I feel the car do what I want.

Now there may be some down sides to this, if your chassis is warped, your droop will not be the same left to right. So you may end up with a longer shock on the left side than the right just to get things even. This'll mean you'll have one arm with a longer stroke/rebound than the other too. But if your chassis is warped... you need to replace it. Also, it takes more time to do this until you find a good setting for your track.

I hope this helps alittle....
Thanks!
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Old 06-29-2004, 10:21 PM   #8752
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Default Will this be a problem???

When I first raced my SD, I bought a pair of Yokomo's universals made for the MR4TC. I DID NOT grind down the balls when I first used them.... well, I raced with them once and hit the side of the wall and it bent one of the universals... I pounded it back into shape just recently and ground the balls down too.



My question is, since it's not completely straight, will it give me any problems? twitching? possibly lose control?

TIA for the replies.

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Old 06-29-2004, 10:43 PM   #8753
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Hey, it will vibrate which which means loss in performance out of that CV.
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Old 06-29-2004, 10:50 PM   #8754
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Plus vibration = bad wear and tear on the bearings, drive cups, hubs, etc.....
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Old 06-30-2004, 01:22 AM   #8755
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Quote:
Originally posted by trigger
i'm done bashing but for those who know him personally know what i mean. very unstable personality, you know like a girl.
hey Trigger who is on here doing the girl shit? ya thats you. my name is up here whats yours? this site is for racing and not talking shit about other people. You have to remember that we may not like each other but not everone is friends, so stop this shit ok it's not worth anything.
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Old 06-30-2004, 01:27 AM   #8756
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Originally posted by JayBee
I 2nd that, none of you guys even know him; and so what he was a bit snappy, WE ALL HAVE OUR MOMENTS
thanks for all the good stuff from everyone, and to bad what happen with me and yok but life does go on and I am still looking forward to racing in the future, and nothing has change but just the car.. see you guys around at a race.....
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Old 06-30-2004, 01:31 AM   #8757
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Quote:
Originally posted by Horatio
OK, you mis-constructed your sentence to Matt. Whatever!

Yep, I got the parts changed all by myself!! My initial complaining was well before even the new, thicker H type c hub moulding came out. The example I finally got hold, weeks after you had it in the states, was full of air and the moulding was flawed. In fact I took pictures of it and it was totally different to other H types I subsequently purchased - no one on this thread could explain it.

Then you guys got the Graphite arms and C Hubs etc. Again, I complained that we didn't have them here (in the UK). When eventually the graphite arms (wishbones this side of the pond) arrived I praised how much better they were and commented/argued that the graphite parts were infact far more durable, which is not normally the case with graphite parts.

Then I complained that the Graphite C hubs still hadn't arrived here - they eventually got here May this year!!!

During that time I know of at least 3 ex team drivers (including an ex National champion driver) who dropped the car cos they couldn't be bothered waiting for the revisions and ended up driving for AE - purely because the Car wasn't durable enough using the parts we had available to us at the time. Note: available to us through CML - NOT what was necessarily available to you at the time through YOUR sponsors.

IMO - ALL my moaning was fully justified - including my whining about the CVD's which you seem to have forgotten about. I whinged 'like a bitch' about them too!!!

Again - none of this was relevant to what we were talking about, a point that you seemed to have ignored. But if/when others insist on bringing the subject up, I'll defend my corner no probs.
hey buddy if you need to know I am not with YOKOMO OK
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Old 06-30-2004, 02:16 AM   #8758
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Quote:
Originally posted by tornado
Yeah! CGM is pretty heavy I'll say...... I managed to bring it down to 1580g without transponder and it is an expensive exercise..
And the Rayspeed looks faster!!
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Old 06-30-2004, 02:28 AM   #8759
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chris Tosolini
hey buddy if you need to know I am not with YOKOMO OK
Well that just kinda confirms what Matt said. Now we know without doubt. You still got a drive though from what I've heard, so I'm sure you're not too pi$$ed about it.

Do you actually know that guy Trigger, the one that called you a Dick? Any ideas what it might be or why he dislikes you soooo much? Everyone else here say's you were fairly helpful trackside.

You just seemed a little 'jumpy' on the forum.
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Old 06-30-2004, 02:48 AM   #8760
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Chris

I wish you good luck with the future. You've helped Yokomo considerably in the past, and I hope you're happy with your next ride. As somebody mentioned, most of us expect factory drivers to be superhuman, but, hey, you guys are just like us, sometimes we yell at each other on the track and on the forums... So why not you?

Tweaking double-deck cars: Here's a tip to minimize tweak intake (or even suppress it): use countersunk screws on the top deck, without countersinking the deck itself. The screws then "Self-center" and put a huge pressure on the deck, preventing it to move sideways... et voila, no more tweak. I've used this method for a few months now, and it works great. No more funny handling after a crash. The first few crashes after I did this mod, I used to pull out the car and check for tweak on the tweak board, and there was none... I don't even check anymore!

Droop screws: adjusting schock length works... but I still think droop screws are easier to use... When you change shock tower locations, for instance, you have to think it all over again.

Ackerman: can someone please discuss the influence of ackerman (the difference between steering wheels angle) on handling? I've never really understood it... thanks!

Later yall

Paul
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