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Old 06-28-2004, 05:15 PM   #8701
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I for one have raced with Chris and he always took the time to help me out and treated me with respect. I made the switch to running Yoks after meeting him and watching him race in person. He will be missed by Yokomo. A month ago he hinted that this may happen but such is the RC racing world. I think badmouthing him is really not needed.

Easton did not stay with duratrax long. That was an interesting move from the start. Will he now post on this thread to help out the Yok guys after he gets going with the CGM?

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Old 06-28-2004, 06:23 PM   #8702
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That's cool Keith, I'll see ya up there with my Yokomo SD. I'll be bringin the 415 though just in case. But this past weekend has shown me what my SD can do.

Well my feelings for Toso are mixed. And he's just about always been the lone gunman for Yok TC putting it in the top 10. But I think Easton is a good all around guy to spread the Yok name in not only OnRoad, but OffRoad as well. This could mean he'll be racing a B4 for 2wd and the MR4 BC for 4wd.. as the Yok drivers normally do. But that's just guessing... After all.. he is World Champ....

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Old 06-28-2004, 06:38 PM   #8703
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Well, call it what you may - but when someone like Tosolini gets called names it wouldn't be human to not wanna know why!! Especially right after news of him being dropped by Yokomo.

Clearly the person calling him names felt strong enough to post his insult on the SD thread, so that all the Yok guys here would read it too, including Matt Howard.

Why do that and not back it up with some kind of justification?

I dare say we'll find out why one day. Maybe Tosolini beat his track record one time, or something like that!
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Old 06-28-2004, 07:09 PM   #8704
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
It isn't gossip when it's the truth Chris has been really good for Yokomo in the years he's run for them, without him there wouldn't of been any Yokomo cars showing up in the A at most national events. I've been told that Yokomo USA is trying to get it's team back to the level it was a couple years ago with a handfull of national level drivers running their cars instead of just one.
Matt, I wasn't implying that you were gossiping, sorry! I also think Toso was a pretty good guy, he always gave me and Alex any help we needed.
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Old 06-28-2004, 07:10 PM   #8705
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i'm done bashing but for those who know him personally know what i mean. very unstable personality, you know like a girl.
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Old 06-28-2004, 07:16 PM   #8706
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Quote:
Originally posted by pops
I will confirm that this is totally true, this has been under wraps for more than a month.
Secondly, you other guys should not bad mouth anybody on these boards, it ain't cool. Gossip isn't cool either...
I 2nd that, none of you guys even know him; and so what he was a bit snappy, WE ALL HAVE OUR MOMENTS
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Old 06-28-2004, 07:31 PM   #8707
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
Well just took home the Region 3 Stock TC title today. Car ran pretty good. Here is my setup....

As for axles, I seemed to have always sheared off the stock bones clean in half near the axle. But now I run the hardened univeral set with no problems at all. It's very nice and well worth it.

Just wondering why u didn't use any droop?
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Old 06-28-2004, 07:46 PM   #8708
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Thats actually a lot of droop, using no droop screws would allow the arm to go up even MORE.
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Old 06-28-2004, 08:47 PM   #8709
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He set the droop using the shock lenghts, Masami likes to do it this way as well.
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Old 06-28-2004, 08:53 PM   #8710
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
He set the droop using the shock lenghts, Masami likes to do it this way as well.
So that's why he never puts droop settings on his setup sheets! You'd think using shock lengths to change droop would be a pain. At least that way the droop screws don't scratch up the chassis.
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Old 06-28-2004, 09:04 PM   #8711
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Quote:
Originally posted by kt racing
the only other problem would be is that toso is really cool and will help you with your problems at the race, or post his set-ups for us. Easton on the other hand comes from associated and most of those guys are a## holes.
you obviously haven't been in the racing scene long at all. Billy has always been cool when it comes to help and being an all around cool type guy. What ever your feelings towards some AE guys shouldn't go for the whole team.

Good luck to both guys.
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Old 06-28-2004, 10:36 PM   #8712
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Exactly like Matt said. I use shock length to set droop. I find it's more consistant for me. Especially when the droop screws dig into the chassis and change it's settings. It's the way you do it on the older cars as well. I like to get my shocks to at least .01mm to each other. Only thing I hate is after a rebuild, gotta readjust it all over again. Works for me though.
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Old 06-28-2004, 11:31 PM   #8713
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
Exactly like Matt said. I use shock length to set droop. I find it's more consistant for me. Especially when the droop screws dig into the chassis and change it's settings. It's the way you do it on the older cars as well. I like to get my shocks to at least .01mm to each other. Only thing I hate is after a rebuild, gotta readjust it all over again. Works for me though.
Would you mind explaining how you set droop with your shock lengths?

I find my droop screw digging into the chassis also. Thanks!

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Old 06-29-2004, 12:04 AM   #8714
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Well it's the same basic concept as setting droop with droop screws. You are just unscrewing or screwing the shock ends until you get the droop that you want. So for instance.. saying that you have regular SD shock towers (not RaySpeed as they require longer shocks). Start all your shocks at the same length front and rear. Say, 61mm for example like mine. Drive the car. Then adjust shock length by .5mm until you get the reaction that you are looking for. Or use a droop guage and unscrew the ends til you get the droop that you want. For me, I'll just keep screwing in or screwing out the shock ends by .5mm until I feel the car do what I want.

Now there may be some down sides to this, if your chassis is warped, your droop will not be the same left to right. So you may end up with a longer shock on the left side than the right just to get things even. This'll mean you'll have one arm with a longer stroke/rebound than the other too. But if your chassis is warped... you need to replace it. Also, it takes more time to do this until you find a good setting for your track.

I hope this helps alittle....
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Old 06-29-2004, 02:37 AM   #8715
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not too found of using shock length to set droop up... it puts some serious constraints on the shock (piston hitting the shock body) and the shock end/shaft (nothing "stopping" them in a crash)...

me not like it Plus after a rebuild, it sucks!

But again, who am I to talk? as long as the car's fast...

Later
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