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Old 06-09-2004, 09:23 PM   #8506
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Yokomo has a replacement bearing set thats pretty good. Speedtechrc.com sells them
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Old 06-09-2004, 10:24 PM   #8507
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Non Trailing Knuckle Arms

I dont know if this was already asked before (probably was) but i'll ask it anyway. How exactly does the non trailing steering knuckle affect the SD's handling? What kind of steering can i expect when i use them and how do they compare to the kit standard ones?

DOTMAN: will check speedtech. thanks!

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Old 06-10-2004, 12:55 AM   #8508
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JEFF WERNER.

One of the CGM chassis main attributes is that it should not tweak. I remember reading somewhere that one of the motormount screws should not be screwed home - or something like that, because it could cause the chassis to tweak. I think it was in the manual. That could be your problem, in which case the solution would be simple.

I cut my own CF chassis from 3.8mm carbon and have sorted the tweak issue completely. That was before the CGM was introduced. I have stayed with it because it is so good, however a coupleof customers who have CGMs just cannot sing the praises loud enough. I think yours is the first tweak issue I have heard of with the CGM. I'm sure something daft must be causing it, but the sooner you sort it the better it is for the chassis.

Try unscrewing - just loosening all the bottom screws and retightening them, and the same with the top formers.

ROBORAT.

The front hubs with trail should make the car easier to keep in a straight line - like a motorcycle fork. I suppose it should also give you less turn in but have the car straightening up earlier as you power out of a corner. I am using in line ones on mine, with 7 degree C hubs. It gives the same sort of effect.

Hope this helps.

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 06-10-2004, 02:10 AM   #8509
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Can anybody tell me whether converting from 48dp to 64 dp helps the cars "noise" issues..
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Old 06-10-2004, 02:37 AM   #8510
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quiet : welcome to the world of yokomo!

First tip for your ssg in order to avoid tweak, which the car is pretty prone to and has been quite hated for... use coutersunk screws for the top deck, even without countersinking the deck itself, it works even better. since I have switched to that a few months ago, it has totally removed any tweak issues by preventing any offset from lower to top deck.

Shim the tranny as instructed... then break in the transmission with no load, under 4V, for a couple of hours... then change shimming according to your tastes.

You'll like the car, it works very well straight out of the box. Still, buy some extra springs, the kit ones are kinda soft for a lot of tracks.

Later,
Paul
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Old 06-10-2004, 02:43 AM   #8511
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roborat: I kept blowing up hub bearings (6x10x4)... So I would systematically buy the least expensive ones... And then I bought some "blue seals" bearings, which were just as inexpensive as the others (around $1.50 a pop)... and they're the longest-lived I've run so far. You'll easily find them on ebay, the guy who sells them is helpful and responsive... Send him an email if he doesn't have an auction in the works at the time you're looking for them.

Later
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Old 06-10-2004, 03:14 AM   #8512
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ok i am sure this has came up in the thread but i cant find it...

has anybody got any links for modding the servo through 90 degrees???
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Old 06-10-2004, 05:15 AM   #8513
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Quote:
Originally posted by pheyhoe
Can anybody tell me whether converting from 48dp to 64 dp helps the cars "noise" issues..
The car shouldn't have any noise issues... mine is very quiet, even after more than a year's racing.

The key is to make sure the input bevel gears are firmly fitted, then adjust the shims a little to make the transmission nice and free, we just want a tiny bit of backlash once the gears have been broken in.

Maybe your 48dp gears are worn and need replacing?

As far as tweak goes, I've put this guide to remove the SD's tweak on my personal site.
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Old 06-10-2004, 07:07 AM   #8514
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lonestar
roborat: I kept blowing up hub bearings (6x10x4)... So I would systematically buy the least expensive ones... And then I bought some "blue seals" bearings, which were just as inexpensive as the others (around $1.50 a pop)... and they're the longest-lived I've run so far. You'll easily find them on ebay, the guy who sells them is helpful and responsive... Send him an email if he doesn't have an auction in the works at the time you're looking for them.

Later
Paul
I've used those same "blue seal" bearings in my cars before too. The best luck I've had with any of the 6x10's is the yokomo teflon sealed bearings. They've lasted longer than any other bearing I've had in the car so far.
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Old 06-10-2004, 07:34 AM   #8515
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I changed to 12 x 6 x 3.5 from the old TC Special on the front hubs and have solved all the problems.

If I could find some rear hubs with the vertical top mount like those used on the SD models, with the same 12 x 6 bearings I would switch to them too.

This car has been so brilliant recently I'm enjoying driving it like never before. Roll on 5.30 pm.
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Old 06-10-2004, 07:39 AM   #8516
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Default MIP Universals

Hi!

I've gone tired of changing my universals, either from breakage or wear... The titanium ones don't break, but wear pretty fast...

I would like to try the MIP universals on my SD. (Where the bone goes on the outside of the stub axle, which is a better construction in my opinion) Does anyone know what MIP CVD Kit (or part number) I should get for a direct fit on my SD? I've heard that the MR-4TC ones should fit, but should I use the ones for the front or the rear? Do I need to change the wheel bearings?

Any help is appreciated.


Sigmund - Oslo/Norway
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Old 06-10-2004, 08:38 AM   #8517
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hey guys does anyone know where I can get toso's set up from the reedy race?? I check the yoko site and its not there yet? Or Matt if you have yours I would appreciate it.
keith
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Old 06-10-2004, 08:51 AM   #8518
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SIGMUND.

I think I have solved my drive shaft wear problem by taking a bit out of the book of real cars.

I have made some CV joint boots. I now pack the CVDs with grease then cover them with the rubber boot, and the grease stays in.

Simple. Find some heat shrink tube that will just fit on the stub axle. Cut 4 lengths just over 1cm long. Slide it over the stub axle. Let it go a couple of mm over the end where the bearings are going to seat. The bearing will hold it in place. Pack the lot with grease. Put the heat gun to it. The bit over the stub axle will shrink to the size of the stub axle. The bit over the dog bone will shrink to the size of the dog bone........and all your grease stays inside.

I did mine about 3 months ago and I still have no wear in my driveshafts, even running 8 turn and 7 turn motors.

Try it before spending money on more driveshafts which are heavier.

Good luck.
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Old 06-10-2004, 09:12 AM   #8519
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Lonestar: thanks for the tip. I actually prefer rubber sealed bearings myself. i am currently browsing thru avid rc website to see if they have some 6x10s that would fit the SD.

johnbull: are you referring to the C-Hubs or the steering spindle/knuckles? coz i was referring to the knuckles. if you were referring to the same thing, would that mean that the non trailing one's will give less turn in?
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Old 06-10-2004, 12:49 PM   #8520
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last time I checked with David Joor, he didn't have 6*10*4's...

The blue seals are made of rubber... they're surprisingly durable given their low price... There is probably better, but it's also probably more expensive (thinking acer ceramics)...

Later

Paul
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