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Old 05-13-2004, 05:20 AM   #8266
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lonestar
Your shocks shouldn't be limiting droop. The droop adjustments should only be performed through the btr screws in the arms... you should have longer shocks. If everything is properly set-up. measuring droop with or without shocks should make no difference... the good thing about unhooking shocks is that you can check for suspension freeness.

Later,

Paul
Very well said. I know alot of people have trouble with this and get themselves into a right old mess. I've also known people messing with droop screws in an attempt to alter ride height - honestly!!
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Old 05-13-2004, 07:10 AM   #8267
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Porter- I think you will enjoy the CGM. It is basically an evolution of the double deck car. Like items mentioned above and I like the steering rack on it as well. The car is very consistant and still very simple to wrench on. Let me know when you get all set up and maybe Ken and I will be able to swing a trip to Topeka!

Jeff
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Old 05-13-2004, 07:11 AM   #8268
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Quote:
Originally posted by AzNDRAGster
Aren't the shock towers different?
The front tower has two extra holes, the rear is the same
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Old 05-13-2004, 12:48 PM   #8269
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Jeff hopfuly I will be recieving everything sometime next week, so give me about two or three weeks and I should be good to go. Also wanted to know when is the Hutchfest race?

Yodace I didn't actually put the order in I just told him that I was going to most likely be ordering one this weekend, but I came across this deal, and now all I need is a speedo, wich I will most likely order from him so I don't hurt his feelings to bad. Oh and I need a power supply.
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Old 05-13-2004, 04:25 PM   #8270
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Default A couple of questions?

How much does the Yokomo CGM weight? Is it significantly more than the SSG?

How much more flexible is the light weight CGM chassis?

Looks like Masami was running the light weight chassis at the worlds warm up.
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Old 05-13-2004, 06:03 PM   #8271
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FL-Racer I ran the Tc3 for a long time. Chassis flex (warping) is a real problem with that car. A chassis is junk after 1 or 2 race days. I never ran the Pro 4 but a local racer has. The problems with that car are gears and chassis tweak. needless to say he dropped that car quick. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-14-2004, 01:39 AM   #8272
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nevada
FL-Racer I ran the Tc3 for a long time. Chassis flex (warping) is a real problem with that car. A chassis is junk after 1 or 2 race days. I never ran the Pro 4 but a local racer has. The problems with that car are gears and chassis tweak. needless to say he dropped that car quick. Hope this helps.
What are you talking about.

A TC3 has won the National championship here for 5 years in a row. Four of those have been the same car with the same chassis, and it's still the quickest, most relaible and best handling car here.

TC3s are still winning more races everywhere in the World than any other car, even though the car is now 5 years old.

You say you ran a TC3 for a long time. Then you say "a chassis is junk after 1 or 2 races". You must have been through an aweful lot of chassis.

Perhaps I misunderstood you!

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 05-14-2004, 05:35 AM   #8273
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Default Yippee!!!

I've finally figured out my front ride height problem...

Since installing a rear shock tower on the front of my car i haven't been able to get the front ride height below 6.5 mm.

I've been wringing my hands over this issue since last Saturday, when my car ran like crap!

Last night, with Masami and Tosolini's setup sheets in hand I finally discovered what I was missing. I needed to move the small kingpin spacer from above the steering block, to the bottom of the steering block.

It's a small, easy to miss adjustment listed on the setup sheet, but it makes a significant difference in setup!
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Old 05-14-2004, 07:47 AM   #8274
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull
What are you talking about.

A TC3 has won the National championship here for 5 years in a row. Four of those have been the same car with the same chassis, and it's still the quickest, most relaible and best handling car here.

TC3s are still winning more races everywhere in the World than any other car, even though the car is now 5 years old.

You say you ran a TC3 for a long time. Then you say "a chassis is junk after 1 or 2 races". You must have been through an aweful lot of chassis.

Perhaps I misunderstood you!

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
john- Out here in sacramento the track temps in the summer average abot 150 and beleive me....that TC3 chassis is like butter. The factory driver's out here always change their chassis. It's been a hit or miss with some though. Nevada was killer with his TC3 but watching him sprint to loosen the motor after each race was funny.
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Old 05-14-2004, 07:48 AM   #8275
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Matt H- Are you racing at Speedworld tomorrow?
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Old 05-14-2004, 08:37 AM   #8276
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Default Gear Ratio suggestion

I just brought a Venno Fireball 17T modify Motor today.

It is a 17T turn motor, what driving ratio I should use guys?

any suggestion?
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Old 05-14-2004, 12:09 PM   #8277
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Quote:
Originally posted by STLNLST
Matt H- Are you racing at Speedworld tomorrow?
most definetly, I'm gonna skip the norcal series race on sunday, too close to the reedy to go play in a parking lot 3 hour away.
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Old 05-14-2004, 06:50 PM   #8278
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Which is harder? the SD-CGM or TC3 grahite tub??
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Old 05-14-2004, 08:14 PM   #8279
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Quote:
Originally posted by MARKANO
Which is harder? the SD-CGM or TC3 grahite tub??
I would say they're about the same. The difference is that yokomo did a better job on the motor mount so the chassis won't take a tweek from tightening the motor too much
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Old 05-15-2004, 10:47 AM   #8280
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Default Re: Gear Ratio suggestion

Quote:
Originally posted by chappi
I just brought a Venno Fireball 17T modify Motor today.

It is a 17T turn motor, what driving ratio I should use guys?

any suggestion?
it depends. We often run 17T here in Europe, but the geaing is strongly dependent on the track... On 8th scale-type track where you need speed, guys gear sick high, close to 4:1 ... Remember there's a motor limit, so basically you're willing to toast it to go fast...

More conventionnally: on tighter indoor tracks, I gear mine from 5.7 to 6.4.

Modern 17T (Orion Orbitals, Corally) are VERY rewarding... they're fast, and wear out slow: you easily get 10 runs out of Q-brushes with no special motor tuning.

Later
Paul
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