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Old 05-09-2004, 09:53 PM   #8191
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You guys are really have trouble with bearings.... When I bought my yokomo about a month later I purchased the precision bearings and I have not replaced 1 bearing since. Everytime I pull them out they are awesome so I dont have much need to clean them that often.
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Old 05-09-2004, 10:07 PM   #8192
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Can you get precision bearings from PrecisionRC.com?

If cleaning the bearings doesn't clear the problem up. I'm looking to Acers bearings.

Jeff W..

I was wondering if u could email me or post a copy of your asphalt setup? Is it still blue up front and silver in the rear? AE springs...right

I like my setup currently..Just wanna compare notes

[email protected]
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Old 05-09-2004, 11:51 PM   #8193
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The precision bearings are made from yokomo. I think u can get them at speedtech. yokomo also makes ceramics for the car but many people swear by the acer bearings and most of all the acer ceramics.

Greg
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Old 05-10-2004, 01:44 AM   #8194
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Hi friends. greetings from Malta.

Haven't been in a few days so here are a few answers.

MARZIN. Spool. I believe Matt has already answered this one suggesting Losi plates. I made my own spool. 2 actually. First was made on the lathe from alloy bar - very easy. Second, which I now use was made from an adapted Corally C4 diff, also alloy. Just needs a bit of imagination.....and a lathe!

I now understand Steve at Speedtech has made some.

LOWNER. One way. Again I seem to remember that someone has already said they are totally different. If you want a one way, I'm afraid you will have to buy one.

POPS. Bearings. The main problem bearings are the ones in the front hubs. They get alot of stick, steering, drive, brakes, sideways loads from understeer, the lot. On the old MR4 Special Yoke had come up with some front hubs with bigger bearings. I used to use them on my Special. I now use those on the SD too. Straight fit and no more bearing problems using the bigger hubs with bigger bearings. You will have to shim the ball joints up a bit to remove bump steer, but that's no problem.

LEM. Suzuki C Hubs. Go ahead and use them with the old type hubs as explained to Pops. Straight fit. You can also use them with the SD hubs. I built one up for a customer that way last week.

JEFF W and GEPPETTO. Droop. Again Matt has explained. Within reason the less droop you use the more reactive the car will be. If the back comes round too easily under decelleration increase rear droop (smaller figure). A good starting set up is 5 front and 3 rear. I had a problem yesterday and upped the rear to 2. It won't go less than 2 because at 2 my shocks are fully extended but again this depends on what shocks and ends you are using.

MASAMI was brilliant at the pre worlds. Looks good for the Worlds.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 05-10-2004, 03:05 AM   #8195
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
with less droop (higher number) your car will feel more responsive but on a bumpy track will feel erratic. More droop will make the car feel lazy in the corners and transfer weight back and forth more since the car can lean more, more suited to bumpy or low traction tracks. I generally start at 7 in the front and 6 in the rear, measuring off the arm, since speedworld is pretty high bite and fairly smooth
Matt, thanks for the info... Do you run the lower or upper C-hub holes? Because this changes everything!

Thanks,
Later,
Paul
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Old 05-10-2004, 03:39 AM   #8196
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is it worth it to get a HD one way for SD? and wat spring suits best for sd? Rayspeed or the Yokomo 1's

Regards
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Old 05-10-2004, 07:14 AM   #8197
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lonestar
Matt, thanks for the info... Do you run the lower or upper C-hub holes? Because this changes everything!

Thanks,
Later,
Paul
I use the lower holes in the hubs
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Old 05-10-2004, 07:15 AM   #8198
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lowner_V1S
is it worth it to get a HD one way for SD? and wat spring suits best for sd? Rayspeed or the Yokomo 1's

Regards
Yes, a oneway is a worthy investment. The yokomo springs are a direct fit on the SD, if you go with the RS springs you need to get the RS spring cups since they are slightly longer
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Old 05-10-2004, 07:38 AM   #8199
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matt, thanks for the info... I use the lower hole too, or else the hub can rub on the rim spokes. Will try your droop setups. Thanks!

Lowner: don't bother with the RS springs. I gave the whole set and 4 cups, it costs more than yoke springs are the quality is equivalent. Plus the stiffness range is too narrow.

Later,
Paul
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Old 05-10-2004, 08:29 AM   #8200
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by johnbull
[B]Hi friends. greetings from Malta.



Bearings. The main problem bearings are the ones in the front hubs. They get alot of stick, steering, drive, brakes, sideways loads from understeer, the lot. On the old MR4 Special Yoke had come up with some front hubs with bigger bearings. I used to use them on my Special. I now use those on the SD too. Straight fit and no more bearing problems using the bigger hubs with bigger bearings. You will have to shim the ball joints up a bit to remove bump steer, but that's no problem.


Johnbull, would you happen to have pics of this mod you did (front hubs with bigger bearings)? or part #.

I'll see if i can find an old MR4 Special for cheap and use those parts and ofcourse the CVD's which i have found to be more durable than the stock original that came with the SSG kit.
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Old 05-10-2004, 09:14 AM   #8201
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Default SD Setups (rear shock stay on front)

Anyone willing to share their setup for the SD using the rear shock tower on the front?

Also, anyone have the web site for the blank .pdf setup sheet for the rear shock tower on the front?

I'm racing stock, asphalt (medium traction), rubber tires. I really need a starting point for using the rear shock tower on the front.

Thanks
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Old 05-10-2004, 09:37 AM   #8202
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Default Re: SD Setups (rear shock stay on front)

Quote:
Originally posted by Geppetto
Anyone willing to share their setup for the SD using the rear shock tower on the front?

Also, anyone have the web site for the blank .pdf setup sheet for the rear shock tower on the front?

I'm racing stock, asphalt (medium traction), rubber tires. I really need a starting point for using the rear shock tower on the front.

Thanks
Yokomo USA has blank set ups for SSG with rear shock tower up front.
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Old 05-10-2004, 09:41 AM   #8203
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull

POPS. Bearings. The main problem bearings are the ones in the front hubs. They get alot of stick, steering, drive, brakes, sideways loads from understeer, the lot. On the old MR4 Special Yoke had come up with some front hubs with bigger bearings. I used to use them on my Special. I now use those on the SD too. Straight fit and no more bearing problems using the bigger hubs with bigger bearings. You will have to shim the ball joints up a bit to remove bump steer, but that's no problem.


Joe from sunny Malta.
We used to use the 6x12 bearings on the old Special as well. They would last forever, well almost. Was not sure the old steering hubs would fit correctly and thus did not try it. If you have some pictures of it, I would like to see how you shimed up the ball joints.
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Old 05-10-2004, 09:49 AM   #8204
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Default Re: Re: SD Setups (rear shock stay on front)

Quote:
Originally posted by pops
Yokomo USA has blank set ups for SSG with rear shock tower up front.
Thanks pops!!!

I did a little searching, and I found it on the Yokomo England web site also.

Now I just need a good starting point.
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Old 05-10-2004, 10:08 AM   #8205
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The bearing conversion would be great to see it. I did convert my CGM's steering to the Ball Stud/Long Link like what was pictured on Masami's car from the Preworlds. I used ball studs and turnbuckle for the link between the two steering arms. I like the less slop that this conversion has.

Jeff
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