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Old 04-18-2004, 07:57 AM   #7921
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Quote:
Originally posted by asimo
yo bud!

time for me to try a new shaft!

I'll get my list soon.

Hurry up would you, i am making a trip to Champ on Tuesday, got some other things to pickup aswell!

I will try and convince Hiroshi to get me one of the shafts to test, and his lightweight chassis too!
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Old 04-18-2004, 10:22 AM   #7922
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cobra81li200
You must have another problem, never broke a gear on that car, never knew of anyone breaking them aswell. Make sure your spacers are in the right place (3 behind the central bevel gear, two on the left side of the one way diff).
Sorry, but you must be racing in a cave somewhere! LOL Have seen quite a few gears broken on the SD. Not nearly as many as on the Tamiyas I've seen. Those guys buy bevel gears by the dozen!
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Old 04-18-2004, 10:30 AM   #7923
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Default Re: Drive shaft cups

Quote:
Originally posted by Yokomo Aust
I seem to be going through a number of the plastic main drive shaft cups (Part number SD-501). On the last one i tried heat shrink but no luck. I dont have big crashes just stock racing stuff. Is there a way to make the plastic parts stronger or should i just buy the Aluminium Team Suzuki parts if i can find them. Is there any other companies that make these parts in Ti or Aluminium.
Had the same problem and noticed that the shaft sits more deeply in the front cup than the rear. Seems to me, that would make the cup weaker the closer it is to the edge. So I moved the O ring to the front cup so the shaft pins will sit deeper in the rear cup. (should be harder to break) Seemed to help, no more broken drive cups. Switched over to the Suzuki cups, because they were blue. (blue is faster you know ) Like to think so.
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Old 04-18-2004, 10:55 AM   #7924
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cobra81li200
You must have another problem, never broke a gear on that car, never knew of anyone breaking them aswell. Make sure your spacers are in the right place (3 behind the central bevel gear, two on the left side of the one way diff).
I probably broke 8-9 one-way gears this winter, many gears in regular rollovers when the tires hav'nt stop rotating before i smacks down again.
I tried about 3 different schim layouts when i last found out one who does'nt break any gears.
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Old 04-18-2004, 11:41 AM   #7925
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pops, did you guys figure out what was wrong with the car?
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Old 04-18-2004, 11:48 AM   #7926
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Quote:
Originally posted by James Nguyen
pops, did you guys figure out what was wrong with the car?
Yes, both Suzuki steering hubs were bent (the small posts that attach the C-hubs) causing the steering to bind. Think I will go to the Graphite hubs now instead of the Suzuki. It will also lighten the car a little too.
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Old 04-18-2004, 01:34 PM   #7927
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Why do people run the tub chassi at so cal and not the all carbon fiber ??
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Old 04-18-2004, 02:34 PM   #7928
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Quote:
Originally posted by GraphiteMilitia
Why do people run the tub chassi at so cal and not the all carbon fiber ??
The double deck C/F chassis are prone to tweaking in a crash, the tub isn't
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Old 04-18-2004, 11:08 PM   #7929
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Default Broken drive cups

Thanks for all the advice. I will try putting the o-ring in the front. I hope it makes a difference. As a last resort i will buy some Alloy ones and hope the problem does not move to the Bevel gear.

Some of the guys at the trace put a small metal sleeve over them.
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Old 04-19-2004, 01:54 AM   #7930
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Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

Can't say I've had any problem with either centre shaft cups or diff gears with my SDs, even running 8 turn motors and spools.

The only time I blew a front diff gear was when I tried removing a couple of shims to reduce friction. However since I have been running stock shims I haven't had a problem.

I know people that have had problems with TC3 cups too, though again we have never had any such problems with my son's car that is now in it's 5th year of racing and winning.

An easy solution however is to slide a length of shrink tubing over it, possible double it too. I'm sure that should solve the problem. I do that with the outdrive part of the spools, both on the TC3 and the SD, but more to keep the blades located than for any other reason.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 04-19-2004, 05:05 AM   #7931
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It has to be said, heat shrink is very good at holding things in place. I use it to prevent CVD pins parting company too, both on and offroad!
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Old 04-19-2004, 07:03 AM   #7932
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Default Parts compatibility MR-4TC SD to MR4-TC SP

My younger brother wants to race TC, but doesn't have a lot of cash to spend on a new kit. Besides, because of his work schedule he can't race on a regular basis.

So, we got him a used radio, batteries, and charger. I also gave him my old MR-4TC SP. And all is working well.

At his first race on Saturday, he was doing pretty good for a beginner, until he broke a hub carrier and steering block in the second Qualifier. That put him out of the race for the remainder of the day.

The problem I'm having is finding replacement parts (especially the ones that break) for the MR-4TC SP. Do any of you guys know if the suspension parts (arms, hubs, and steering blocks) for the MR-4TC SD are compatible with the SP?

It seems a waste to have to stop using a decent chassis like the SP for a lack of parts.
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Old 04-19-2004, 07:10 AM   #7933
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Geppetto. Greetings from Malta.

Whilst all the parts you mention are slightly different on the SD, they will still actually fit on the Special, and vice versa.

In fact I presently use Special front hubs and C hubs on my SD.

Good luck.

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 04-19-2004, 07:23 AM   #7934
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Default Re: Parts compatibility MR-4TC SD to MR4-TC SP

Quote:
Originally posted by Geppetto
My younger brother wants to race TC, but doesn't have a lot of cash to spend on a new kit. Besides, because of his work schedule he can't race on a regular basis.

So, we got him a used radio, batteries, and charger. I also gave him my old MR-4TC SP. And all is working well.

At his first race on Saturday, he was doing pretty good for a beginner, until he broke a hub carrier and steering block in the second Qualifier. That put him out of the race for the remainder of the day.

The problem I'm having is finding replacement parts (especially the ones that break) for the MR-4TC SP. Do any of you guys know if the suspension parts (arms, hubs, and steering blocks) for the MR-4TC SD are compatible with the SP?

It seems a waste to have to stop using a decent chassis like the SP for a lack of parts.
You might want to give Yokomo USA a call, they might have some parts for the old car in the warehouse.
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Old 04-19-2004, 08:36 AM   #7935
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John & Matt: Thanks guys!!! I was really worried whether or not I'd be able to find parts before this weekend's racing. I didn't want my brother to become discouraged so early on because of broken parts.

I checked the Yokomo USA web site, and it looks like they have many of the parts in stock.

However, knowing that my SD parts will work on the SP is even better. Between my brother and I, we will only have to keep extras of parts that are common to both his SP and my SD. That will save us a lot of frustration.

While he's learning to drive, I'll stock up on arms, hub, and steering blocks!
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