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Old 03-30-2004, 12:38 AM   #7726
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Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

STEVE.

You have a valid point of course. For guys that have been using one ways then they stand to gain only.

In Europe people seem to use one ways to a lesser degree. I have run a spool on my SD and love the way it handles - a bit like a front wheel drive real car.

The IRS spool is delicate indeed. What one needs to do is ensure that the cushions / blades - call them what you like, are always in good order. I have one fitted on my son's TC3 which has run a full season of mod racing with 8 turn motors. We have had no problems and the spool is still like new, but we did away with the IRS pin cushions and used Corally Assassin blades instead. After 12 meetings and at least that again in practice the spool is still like new.

MATT.

Interesting set up. I run a very similar set up myself - 30 oil and 2 degrees rear toe, and more droop (smaller figures - 5 front, 3 rear). Your gearing of 104 x 28 is just what I run with 9 turn motors too. I'm going to try running it without roll bars today.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 03-30-2004, 05:42 AM   #7727
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Default 1st TC race in 2 years!!!

It's been a while, but our first asphalt race is scheduled for this Saturday (weather permitting).

I'm attaching a photo of my 95% completed chassis. I still need to paint my body and build my batteries.

I need help though, my two biggest concerns are proper gearing, and combatting over steer.

What gearing should I use for a large, medium grip asphalt surface with only few short turns and a long (100') straight away ending with a sweeper? (It will be a fast track, not very technical) This would be for a stock motor and a 19T motor. Also, what is the gear ratio for the SD?

Last, if I experience oversteer where should I begin trying to fix it on the SD? My last TC experience was with my MR-4TC which ran great. However, when I first started racing it eliminatig the oversteer was very frustrating.
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Old 03-30-2004, 07:15 AM   #7728
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Quote:
Originally posted by wcoyote
John Fontaine,

Get some plumbers putty and fill in the holes. Then remark and redrill, and sand it smooth after it has dried. It's a great quick fix for graphite and composite chassis. I used it on my graphite chassied YZ-10 when I made and error on cutting the holes for my adjustable wheelbase chassis mod. One years worth of runs, no breaks or cracks there again.
Thanks, I'll try it out. Right now it's holding pretty solidly due to the extra diameter of the washer. If I have any problems I will try this method out. I was thinking about something like this the seconds after my mistake! Thanks for the tip.

John
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Old 03-30-2004, 08:06 AM   #7729
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
Yeah, I'm racing the first race of the NORCAL TC Challenge down in Gilroy this weekend. You should come down too, unless you don't want to represent all your sponsors in the biggest racing series in northern california
My sponsors know that I'm testing spool set up's for the Reedy Race so a carpet trip isn't in my plans anytime soon. Besides.....I don't wish to buy foams for one day of club racing. Good luck and don't forget to promote BN RACING
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Old 03-30-2004, 09:34 AM   #7730
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John,

You're welcome. I'm glad the washers are working for you. I don't know how I came up with the putty idea to begin with. I think I just had some lying around and the light bulb went on in my head. I guess I figured at the worst, I was going to have to buy a new chassis anyway.
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Old 03-30-2004, 04:17 PM   #7731
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Geppetto, you have PM back.... Also, depends where your oversteer is. Is it oversteering goin in off power? Or is it oversteering coming out on power? If goin in, then try to either raise and/or lengthen the camber link. And you can also try adjusted the droop in the rear by raising up the arms (less droop). If it's coming out you can adjust droop up front so that you have more droop in the front. And you can also shorten or lower the front camber link. Plus you have springs and swaybars to mess with as well.
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Old 03-31-2004, 04:17 AM   #7732
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Default CGM ans Rayspeed shock towers

Hi,

I just had the idea of using the Rayspeed shock towers with my CGM, because the rear shock tower looks very similar to the RS one.... has anyone tried that, yet?

Greetings,
IH
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Old 03-31-2004, 04:22 AM   #7733
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I'm running Rayspeed towers on my SSG with no problems. I think the rayspeedtowers is much better that the original CGM and SSG towers because the shock holes is in one row and not in random positions as the SSG and CGM, with the shock setup i run on my CGM for the moent i can use 3 holes in rear and 2 holes in front. With Rayspeed towers i can use all 6 in front and rear
i'm thinking of swap the composite towers on my CGM to the Rayspeed towers because of this (they're lighter too )
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Old 03-31-2004, 06:06 AM   #7734
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KilRuf: Thanks for the reply. I haven't actually run the car yet. I've been working on finishing everything when I have spare time in the evenings. So when I throw the car on the track this Saturday, it will be the first time it has been run. I'm just trying to anticipate the kind of handling issues that would cause me problems finishing a heat.
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Old 03-31-2004, 11:22 PM   #7735
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anyone knows the part number for the ride height/droop gauge?
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Old 04-01-2004, 01:06 AM   #7736
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Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

GEPPETTO. Good to see you back. Are you running on asphalt or carpet?

I ran my car yesterday. Hadn't run it for a while. To say I surprised myself is an understatement. It's always so good, especially since I cut this thick chassis which has completely eliminated tweek.

I started off badly, the car spinning out as soon as I power out of corners. It was both sides so I checked out all the measurements and angles, found nothing, and replaced the rear diff, and suddenly it was absolutely dialled.

I tried running the front one way but found I was loosing about a second a lap with it so put the spool back in.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 04-01-2004, 05:38 AM   #7737
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Johnbull: I'll be racing on medium-high grip smooth asphalt, approx. 125'x90'.

Good news: The mail man delivered my Square Ti front and rear input shafts. It's increible how heavy the stock shafts are compared to these Ti units. The stock rear input shaft is actually heavier than both the front and rear Ti shafts (I should state that this is based on feel, and not a real scale).

Oh, I bought the Square parts from www.precisionrc.com and it took about 6 days for the parts to arrive.
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Old 04-01-2004, 12:25 PM   #7738
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Are most people running the Graphite driveshaft or the std aluminium one?
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Old 04-01-2004, 05:04 PM   #7739
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I run the Tobee Craft aluminium main shaft.
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Old 04-01-2004, 08:03 PM   #7740
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Quote:
Originally posted by acutts
Are most people running the Graphite driveshaft or the std aluminium one?
I have the Tobee one in both my cars. Stay away from the graphite shaft, it will twist with anything faster than a stock motor.
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