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Old 03-11-2004, 03:53 PM   #7486
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Hey guys, I was wondering where to get some Rayspeed stuff.

Also, where can I get that "YOKOMO" battery brace?

Thnx
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Old 03-11-2004, 04:01 PM   #7487
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www.speedtechrc.com
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Old 03-11-2004, 04:12 PM   #7488
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Thanks
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Old 03-11-2004, 04:19 PM   #7489
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Quote:
Originally posted by Horatio
Yeah, tweak can be a real pain. Just about all the guys I know that run SSG's or Black Specials have experienced the same. It's nothing that a Hex wrench and a flat surface can't solve though!

The RS is much harder to tweak. I'm picking up some good scores with the the new chassis

I wonder how Randman is getting on with his Losi? Is it red yet?

i tried mytsn.com's method of "equalising" the left right shocks and it worked pretty good, just that the ride height is a little bit to set now, but the left and right conering ability is pretty much identical now
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Old 03-11-2004, 05:37 PM   #7490
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Quote:
Originally posted by IH
Yes, that are the wheels coming with the kit. Hey seems like I am pretty good Mine have cracked at 2 places only, and
the tires are already pretty worn out

Now, I am looking for some medium-hard wheels. What do you recommend... (btw. they should be as unexpensive as possible)

Greetings,
IH
Yokomo TW-0512-2 Aero Dish Wheels are very good, very few problems, the precision wheels are a little more brittle than these.
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Old 03-11-2004, 07:07 PM   #7491
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The precison wheels are lighter so they have a reduced rotateing mass. Few crashes and their GONE.
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Old 03-12-2004, 01:07 AM   #7492
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As I said, back to JB rims for me... they're very strong, middle to firm plastic, and still rather light.

Later,
Paul

Quote:
Originally posted by IH
Yes, that are the wheels coming with the kit. Hey seems like I am pretty good Mine have cracked at 2 places only, and
the tires are already pretty worn out

Now, I am looking for some medium-hard wheels. What do you recommend... (btw. they should be as unexpensive as possible)

Greetings,
IH
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Old 03-12-2004, 01:22 AM   #7493
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Quote:
Originally posted by Horatio
An ex Schumacher team driver started racing an SSG but gave up on it because he kept breaking it. He changed to a TC3 - but kept the Yok wheels and ran the TC3 on them. The first regional A final he got into with it, he had to retire - because the one of the Yok wheels broke!!
That's not Chris Kerswell, is it ?

Yes, the Yoke wheels are firm, but fragile, just like any wheel that is firm and that light would be.

If you want a more durable wheel why not go for Proline. You shouldn't have much difficulty finding them in the States.

We use Proline Velocity, Schumacher Revlite, or JB (Orion). The Schumacher is the most firm of the 3.

We had a good test day (TC3s) on Wednesday. Both the cars I prepare were ballistic. Son Josh was running consistantly about 1/2 a second a lap below the modified lap record, and Adrian was doing the same with the Super Stock record.

Looks like we're doing it right!

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 03-12-2004, 04:28 AM   #7494
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Johnbull:

Hahaha, no it wasn't Chris but good guess though!

Good job with those cars - breaking lap records consistently can't be bad.

I've been pretty lucky with my wheels, but I generally use Prolines. I gather that Spoke wheels can give you more steering, but it's very time consuming experimenting with the different inserts/tyres/wheel combinations. I generally find one type of wheel I know works and stick with it.
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Old 03-12-2004, 04:51 AM   #7495
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wow,i've just graduated from this thread.200+ pages were a long time.

I've just modified the front end a little after hearing all the stories about the lower king pin falling out.
Changed the kingpin (4mm of M3 thread) with M4x8 button heads.
which has 5mm of M4 thread.Of course the steering block had to be re-threaded but that's a simple job.
I know the threads will rub/bind against the C-hubs,but there is no noticable drag to the rotation of the block.

Now i dont think that it'll ever fall off again,save for a mighty crash.I actually had to torque the screw in.
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Old 03-12-2004, 05:55 AM   #7496
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Default Lightweight Drivetrain Parts

The outdoor racing scene hasn't even begun yet, but I'm already looking for an advantage.

I'm interested in replacing my stock input shafts, center drive shaft, and dogbone/axles.

Searching this thread (nearly 200 pages ), I see Tobee, Square and Yokomo offer aluminum or Titanium input shafts.

Shooters, Tobee and Yokomo offer aluminum or carbon fiber driveshafts.

Square, Yokomo, Tobee, MIP all offer alloy dogbones.

And, Square has Titanium axles.

Are any of you guys using any of these products? If so, how long have you been using them and are they durable?

Last, where can I find some of the products from companies like Shooters and Square?

Thanks
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Old 03-12-2004, 06:57 AM   #7497
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Quote:
Originally posted by lee82gx

I know the threads will rub/bind against the C-hubs
just call it "active groud clearance" and you'll be fine
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Old 03-12-2004, 07:02 AM   #7498
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Default Re: Lightweight Drivetrain Parts

Quote:
Originally posted by Geppetto
The outdoor racing scene hasn't even begun yet, but I'm already looking for an advantage.

I'm interested in replacing my stock input shafts, center drive shaft, and dogbone/axles.

Searching this thread (nearly 200 pages ), I see Tobee, Square and Yokomo offer aluminum or Titanium input shafts.

Shooters, Tobee and Yokomo offer aluminum or carbon fiber driveshafts.

Square, Yokomo, Tobee, MIP all offer alloy dogbones.

And, Square has Titanium axles.

Are any of you guys using any of these products? If so, how long have you been using them and are they durable?

Last, where can I find some of the products from companies like Shooters and Square?

Thanks
Try speedtech, they have some stuff.

I run the square Ti bones on the front end.... they're very durable, unless you run a one-way (metal outdrives) in which case the pins wear out stupidly fast. I keep them for racing events, and in the meantime I run either the stock bones (I'm almost out of them now... still the first generation parts), and I recently started using tobee Al bones up front. Theyre cheaper and lighter than the yokomo parts, and so far they're even more durable. I've used them on the back end of the car since the beginning, and they're absolutely fine.

Hope this helps,
Later,
Paul
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Old 03-12-2004, 07:59 AM   #7499
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Geppetto: I am currently using the Tobee Craft lightweight center shaft, dogbones, front input shaft and kingpins. I also use the Square rear input shaft and Yokomo Ti screws. These hop-ups are nice as they greatly reduce the weight on the drivetrain, and as for the screws, are lighter without sacrificing much strength.

I've tweaked the Tobee rear aluminum input shaft, and that's why I switched to the Square Ti one. Recently I bent the Tobee Craft center shaft slightly, but this was after a hard hit, and after using it for months with no problems. I have not tried a graphite center shaft, but I've heard mixed results from others. Many feel the graphite is only suitable for stock motor racing.

The really general rule of thumb is replace steel parts with Ti or aluminum (unless the part breaks easily), and replace plastic with graphite. I feel that replacing plastic parts with aluminum is almost always a waste of money, and can actually add weight to the car.
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Old 03-12-2004, 08:04 AM   #7500
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Geppetto, I have been using most of the parts you have mentioned.

Input shaft: First, I bought the Tobee ones. They are the most unexpensive ones, but the rear one slightly wobbled. I switched to Square in the rear. Square parts are pretty expensive, but qualitiy is very nice.

Main drive shaft: Tobee:it is light and it handles mod. motors without any problems (btw. it is the only one made of aluminum). I would not recommend the Yokomo one unless you are racing stock, only. Shooter shaft seems to be very good for both stockand mod.

Bones: I run the Square ones up front and the Tobee bones at rear. If you run a one way the Tobees will snap pretty easy when using them up front.

The hardened Yokomo bones seem to be pretty durable as well. You have to grind down the balls though when using them on the front.

Greetings,
IH
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