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Old 03-09-2004, 01:04 PM   #7456
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First race will be this weekend so it's not really urgent to get the arms here. But i want to finish the damn car right about now anyways
What i have noticed with the CGM is that it's stiffer than i expected actually, hope i get any grip at all with the Schumacher 25-tires
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Old 03-09-2004, 03:56 PM   #7457
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finally i got around to really run the SD, the car does track straight, it has no problem on turning left, but it push when going into a right turn then oversteer while the steering return to neutral

the built chassis sit flat on the hudy board, left and right side shocks and springs are balanced using the losi tool, ride height is set at 4.5mm each side, and this happen when i tried sorex 32R, 28R, pit 25, pit 30, alfa 2.0, mazda 6

is there any tricks or methods mentioned b4 that i missed about fixing this conering issue??
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Old 03-09-2004, 08:55 PM   #7458
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sparx
Looki Looki! My CGM is starting to take shape! Only thing missing now is the shocks (which i take from my SSG) and A-Arms that will arrive tomorrow
Doh! The pic
Nice looking ride. I was wondering, what brand are those blue stub axles you are using and what are they made of?

I forgot to mention: I finished 5th of about 29 racers in the 19T class at our local 2 day race with the new CGM. I definitely think it works better on carpet than the old chassis. The next thing I'm going to try is running the SSG modified rear shock tower on the front instead of the moulded one; the shock position is a little different, and the camber link positions are really different.

Geppetto: That definently sounds like a shimming problem (assuming there is no debris in the gears). If the shimming is too tight, the drivetrain will not bind with the gear cover off, but will bind once it is tightened down. I've had the most success running 2 shims on the input shafts and either 1 on each side of the diff, or two on the long side (depends on the moulding).
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Old 03-10-2004, 12:54 AM   #7459
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fire
finally i got around to really run the SD, the car does track straight, it has no problem on turning left, but it push when going into a right turn then oversteer while the steering return to neutral

the built chassis sit flat on the hudy board, left and right side shocks and springs are balanced using the losi tool, ride height is set at 4.5mm each side, and this happen when i tried sorex 32R, 28R, pit 25, pit 30, alfa 2.0, mazda 6

is there any tricks or methods mentioned b4 that i missed about fixing this conering issue??
fire,
check the droop (it must be symetrical...) and if this doesn't fix it, then try the 4-scale board, it won't lie.

Later,
Paul
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Old 03-10-2004, 01:45 AM   #7460
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Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

Please allow the old man a few words on Formula 1.

I have followed it closely, written articles about it, commentated GPs on television, simply lived F1 for the last 45 years. It's a great subject to discuss.

I know there is a thread in rctech for Formula 1 - in the general section if I remember correctly. Perhaps we should talk F1 on that. This way we keep everyone happy. What do you say?

NOW YOKES>

I went to the track yesterday evening specifically to drive a customer CGM and help him set it up. It was cold - very cold, and windy, and despite the good floodlighting at our track my 57 year old eyes still suffer somewhat in anything but bright daylight.

The car was fitted with Yokomo 138F tyres. Everything else kit. I wasn't impressed. I redid the droop as someone had messed it up, and it was a bit better but still very skittish. I then simply put the Take Off 22s I had on my Rayspeed SD on it, and the car was transformed. I was suddenly running as fast as the quick guys in the class.

The car has fantastic reactions. It's so easy to drive fast. I had to knock off a load of steering from the transmitter and still it did just what you want it to do. Very much like my thick chassis (3.8mm) Rayspeed.

It's owner then had a go. Again he was right on the pace and getting another minute out of the cells.

This car races in our beginners class - 8 minute races, 21 turn sealed control motor and 3000 cell limit. His previous MR4 TC was slower down the straights yet couldn't give him 8 minutes flat out run time. With the CGM he is way quicker and can run for 9 minutes before it starts to slow.

I gave my mod SD a whirl too. Great fun though I slammed it against a banking and broke a wishbone at about 4 minutes! But great fun all the same.

This evening I'm down again, but with my son Josh and his TC3. Got a few more bits to try out.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 03-10-2004, 02:09 AM   #7461
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Johnbull:

I think you got away with it this time

Interesting what you found with the CGM. 80 percent of a good setup lies in the choice of tyres/inserts.

As regards speed, my experience leads me to believe that shaft driven cars are both more efficient and quicker in a straight line.
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Old 03-10-2004, 04:41 AM   #7462
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Quote:
finally i got around to really run the SD, the car does track straight, it has no problem on turning left, but it push when going into a right turn then oversteer while the steering return to neutral
I experienced the same thing. Try to preload both dampers on the left side a little bit more. (0.5mm to 1.00mm). This should solve the problem.

Greetings,
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Old 03-10-2004, 08:34 AM   #7463
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Quote:
Originally posted by IH
I experienced the same thing. Try to preload both dampers on the left side a little bit more. (0.5mm to 1.00mm). This should solve the problem.

Greetings,
IH
This works very well.
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Old 03-10-2004, 09:01 AM   #7464
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2Tenths >> The driveshafts who actually is green (if that┤s what you mean) are Yokomo Miracle car Parts or something like that. I think that their made of aluminium. The only thing i know for sure is that they are 22 grams lighter than the original ┤steel shafts

Finished the car today actually. (see pic)
1537 grams, quite heavy, but i like her the way she is
I'll probably add Shooters graphite driveshaft to shave off some more.
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Old 03-10-2004, 09:02 AM   #7465
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Electrics bay
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Old 03-10-2004, 09:03 AM   #7466
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Last, steering.
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Old 03-10-2004, 09:11 AM   #7467
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With the SSG, I had to run more pre-load on the left side, the side with the cells and therefore the most weight. I'm suprised that you had the car riding level unless you did this already? Be sure to measure ride height using the gauge from the side or on the diagnal on all four corners of the car.

With the RS conversion, the pre-load is more even all around. I think this is because of the revised position of the cells and the fact that the chassis is stiffer.

Regards

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Old 03-10-2004, 10:06 AM   #7468
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yeah, the left side shocks have more preload, the difference between left and right preload is visiable

one thing i found is that the left rear and right front lift up easier than the other diagonal, but if i adjust the preload to make them lift equally then the ride height is all out of wack
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Old 03-10-2004, 10:15 AM   #7469
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Sparx I noticed with the extra thick upper rod ends you might run into clearence issues on the front wheels when turning. It may just be the angle of the pics but I would check to see if they will rub while you turn the steering. That way if you need to sand down the ends a little, you can before you start running the car.
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Old 03-10-2004, 10:45 AM   #7470
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Coyote, They are actually dremeled down right now, did that after i took the pics
I had RPM cups on my SSG too and experienced the same problem with it. A difference was that i did'nt see or hear before i ran the car.. To bad, because my Stratus wheelwells are big like dinnerplates now when i thought the wheels rubbed against the body when it was 2 minutes to start
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