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Old 03-05-2004, 01:25 AM   #7351
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

I have to agree with Matt and Chris. Yoke do this simply because they are determined to stay on the pace.

If they left their cars as they come we would soon be complaining too, wouldn't we. Instead they are constantly updating, making the cars more competitive, for us.

I have had Yokes since after the 1998 Worlds, and love them for their constant developement.

Nobody complains because X Ray bring out a new car every week.

CGM WEIGHT>

I've just finished a second customer CGM, complete with electrics etc. Hope to run it for him tomorrow.

In absolutely standard trim here's what it weighs:

Rolling chassis with Protoform Stratus 2, Novak Atom speedo - had to use that for space saving, Futaba receiver. No cells. 1173 grams.

GP3300 cells 383 grams. Sanyo 3000HV cells 365 grams.

This means that with the Sanyo cells it is 38 grams over the 1500 weight limit, and with the GP3300 cells it's 56 grams overweight.

With the fuss everybody was making I thought it was going to be impossibly overweight, which it is not. Put a set of titanium screws on and you're right on the weight limit.

Nothing wrong with that.

Actually I wouldn't run mine much less than 1515 grams anyway.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 03-05-2004, 04:39 AM   #7352
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I have to agree with John. You really do not need to buy the lightweight CGM chassis unless you race classes where there is no weight limit. But if there is a weight limit, which is usually at 1500gr, the CGM is allright. If you take a closer look at the pictures you will notice that the chassis has been milled out on the electonics side, only. This is the side where you will usually have to add weight, if your car is too light. The standard chassis already has this weight positioned at the lowest point possible Therefore there is no use of buying the lightweight chassis if you are running classes with 1500gr. weight limit.

Greets
IH
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Old 03-05-2004, 05:19 AM   #7353
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Yes, exactly. It doesn't take much to shed a few grams if you really must get it spot on 1500g. In the UK, most clubs run BRCA based rules anyway - so even 'casual' racers would be in breech if they ran cars below the 1500g weight limit. So it's just not an issue over here.

However, it doesn't hurt knowing that your car is lighter than the one next to you.......

Now then, how much are those titanium screws?........
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Old 03-05-2004, 06:28 AM   #7354
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Hi guys. greetings from Malta.

If there's one thing I hate it's a floor pan that looks like a sieve.

I like to be able to anchor my electrics on well and there's nothing like a smooth, flat surface, to do that. That's apart from the fact that, as Horatio said, by lightening the electrics side you are increasing the weight bias.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 03-05-2004, 07:16 AM   #7355
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Johnbull:

Looking at the carrier mod you did, did you use the fastrax FTMR03/FTMR04 aluminium hub carriers? Can you confirm these would be OK (with the lugs cut off).

Also, what length do the M3 screws end up as and what bushings did you use ie do they have a part number or did you
fabricate them yourself?

1 more thing: please tell us the part number for the rose joints you use!

There I go again!
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Old 03-05-2004, 08:50 AM   #7356
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Actually, it was IH that said it - he got in before me!

And you're right, I find it more difficult to stick my electronics to my Rayspeed chassis than my SSG chassis. Dust gets up through the milled out holes and contaminates the double sided tape/velcro on the gubbins side of the chassis. I thought it was just me being fussy - I'm glad I'm not alone on this LOL!

However, weight distribution is not really an issue on the RS chassis - I find the pre-load is much more even than it was with the SSG. I have figured that this is because the battery position is better (further forward and closer to the centre) and that the chassis is very much stiffer than standard.

As for the development side of things, you can expect most companies to churn out new 'better' parts every now & then. To be fair to Yokomo, they have also responded very quickly to known problem areas by revising moulds etc and this is highly commendable. As one of this threads main 'whingers' (just for you lonestar ), I can appreciate this fact more than most.

What certain people don't like though, is getting a new car that suddenly becomes 'old' within a couple of weeks cos there's always a 'better' version coming out. Personally I reckon you either develop a thick skin to this sort of thing, or spend compulsively. OR buy a TC3 FT 5 years on, it's just the same!!
Some people like having to keep buying things, others don't. You pays yer money and takes yer choice!
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Old 03-05-2004, 08:59 AM   #7357
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Horatio.

I'll try and answer as well as I can.

1. Yes they are Fastrax - don't know the number off hand. They make them in 3, 4, 5, and 7 degrees I think. I have 5 degrees on at present.

2. The latest Fastrax ones come with bushes. Before that I used to drill TC3 bushes to 3mm. They just need a touch with a drill.

3. Sorry I can't tell you a screw length off hand. They are 3mm screws but I suppose the length depends on whether you pack them with washers to alter the angle etc. If you do raise them, then you will need inch up wheels.

4. Fastrax make some good ball joints. If you want a real good fit then use Yokomo ball joint plastic ends ZC402 with the Fastrax metal ball. That way they have no slop at all. I am presently using TC3 shock ends everywhere on my car and my son's TC3, but they are an expensive way of doing it. Now if I could buy a pack of 100 TC3 ones then that would be more economical.

Do you guys follow Formula 1?

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 03-05-2004, 09:42 AM   #7358
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Why do you ask if we follow F1 johnbull?

Have you put some money on Schumacher? You won't get rich if he wins, that's for sure!
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Old 03-05-2004, 10:29 AM   #7359
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The sign is not good, two Ferraris are more than a second faster than everyone else.
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Old 03-05-2004, 10:36 AM   #7360
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Johnbull:

Thanks for the information - I'll be doing that carrier mod soon, so there'll be no need to worry about c - carrier moulding woes ever again I'll most likely do it after the end of our S&DMCC championship as we've only 2 rounds left.

As for Formula 1, I used to follow it in the good old Nigel Mansell era and more recently when Damon Hill was ding donging with Schumacher etc, but not these days. It's all Ferrari isn't it? I don't like watching a one horse race although I admire Schumacher's excellent driving talent, IMO he has a very unfortunate attitude. Funny how you find exactly the same thing in the world of 1/10th scale racing too

Sosidge:

Finally something we agree on!
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Old 03-05-2004, 10:47 AM   #7361
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chris Tosolini
I won a carpet nat already with yokomo.
I'm talking about this year at the Gate..Look at the run you had at Novak.You were the man. Thats all. Its your turn man get'em..I'll be sittin here reading about it on the net..
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Old 03-05-2004, 01:13 PM   #7362
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sosidge: thanks for the roll center info.

All right, bad front hook problem solved... it had nothing to do with roll center whatsoever; actually the bumper was bent downways on both sides, due to miscellaneous hits. Looking at suspension travel, on the kitchen table, it didn't look like the it would cause any trouble... but still the car was pushing on strong off-power turns, and then oversteering.... So I finally decided to unbend the bumper. Now the car handles like a charm! I guess in the first phase of the turn the front end would "slide" on the bumper, and then the bumper would "hook" in the carpet and cause the spinout... now everything's solved, and the car kicks a$$! Looking forward to the next race (27-28 March, Orion GP, in Switzerland, they announce Hara, Spashett, and Surikarn... Guess I'll run the 17T class lol).

Actually I started messing with roll center height, just for kicks... I raised the front hingepins holders by a good 2mm. And I hated the car, it would be very twitchy. I was expecting it to understeer (raise roll center), but it wasn't the case at all. Go figure... Went back to normal setup.

Anyways, thanks all for the help...

Later,
Paul
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Old 03-05-2004, 04:24 PM   #7363
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I run my CGM with a front sway bar and it seems to work pretty good for Asphault tight track, but no sway bar at all on my Losi XXXS. I'm going by other's set ups too, to get it tweaked this far. Is there a fundamental difference between the cars that warrants these set ups?
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Old 03-05-2004, 04:25 PM   #7364
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BTW, they are both run in either stock or 19t class.
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Old 03-05-2004, 08:08 PM   #7365
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Quote:
Originally posted by edseb
BTW, they are both run in either stock or 19t class.
hey hommie all cars are the same principal, sway bar,roll centers, camber links, it all relative. call me tomorrow if you have any qustions.
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