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Old 03-02-2004, 05:26 AM   #7246
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Cobra:

What they really need is someone like Cecil Schumacher to help them get it right

That would be the end of the problem

I've been very lucky with the graphite wishbones - they are much better with no flaws. I want the G version C carriers goddammit!!LOL!!

Lee:

If you were to use all graphite parts, you wouldn't have a problem. All of these parts would break way before wrecking the mounts, pins, chassis or anything else but they are far more reliable than the standard stuff. I've used the Alloy steering arms with no problems - a massive improvent on the durability side of things and you can tighten the kingpins PROPERLY each time you need to replace a C Carrier;o)

It's actually far easier changing the suspension mounts or pins on the SD than changing either a wishbone OR a C-carrier IMHO. NOT that I've ever broken them, but I have messed about with the tuning options. So go for it. You'ld have to do something really stupid to wreck your mounts/pins/chassis. It's the wishbones/carriers/steering arms/driveshafts that give the most grief.
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Old 03-02-2004, 06:13 AM   #7247
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cobra81li200
Get graphite wishbones / hus but keep the hard C-Hubs. Should be no problems with these.
This is just how I run mine. Alloy C hubs and plastic or graphite hub carriers (blocks).

Can't say I've had too many breakages. When I do it's usually such an almighty crash that I'm usually surprised how little I break not how much.

TC3 has it's weak points too, but then so do most cars.

RICK DRAPER> Got one of those propshafts for son's TC3. really nice aren't they. It's stood up well with 8 turn mod motors too.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 03-02-2004, 08:38 AM   #7248
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yeah, the graphite parts are much better than standard parts.
lee82gx, one personal question. do you know any good shops and tracks in Kuala Lumpur, I shall visit Malaysia next month. thax.
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Old 03-02-2004, 08:43 AM   #7249
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Quote:
Originally posted by tcmerf
Randman, are you going to So Cal Tuesday. I am going to charge my packs tonight so I can go strait from work. I was just trying out the chages in front of my house and it feels like a totally different car. I really am loooking forward to seeing how it works on the track.
I'll be there today.
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Old 03-02-2004, 08:44 AM   #7250
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Quote:
Originally posted by lee82gx
I've just been quoted US$236 for a CGM.
compare that to US$315 for a FTTC3.
Axactly, the CGM has awesome value for what you spend.
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Old 03-02-2004, 08:52 AM   #7251
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull
This is just how I run mine. Alloy C hubs and plastic or graphite hub carriers (blocks).

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
Where / who makes the alloy c carriers? Just a thought, as I'm still finding it very difficult to find a cost effective way of obtaining the 4143G c carriers.

Regards

Horatio
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Old 03-02-2004, 08:59 AM   #7252
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Quote:
Originally posted by Horatio
Where / who makes the alloy c carriers? Just a thought, as I'm still finding it very difficult to find a cost effective way of obtaining the 4143G c carriers.

Regards

Horatio
If I'm not mistaken, he uses modified MR4TC caster blocks.
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:11 AM   #7253
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Quote:
Originally posted by utieh
I was thinking to buy those...but were can you find them?? (small one from the EIII ot 415)?
ya... i tink tamiya has them sold seperately...

Horatio, i tink the tamiya servo mounts are cheap
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:16 AM   #7254
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Another important point regarding bits breaking, though someone (I think it was Randman) has already mentioned it:-

The track markings themselves have alot to do with how well any car stands up to the rigours of racing. I've raced on tracks marked out with rope, plastic pipe, square drain-pipe, wood, concrete(!) and even armour coated high voltage cable. Proper purpose made stuff like the Road Rail system are much more forgiving to the SD and on these tracks I rarely experience any breakages. Also some curbs/dots are smooth whilst others can be very aggressive.

For us brits, lower temperatures can sometimes make plastic parts more brittle too - just as composite chassis' can flex more when track temps go up.
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:20 AM   #7255
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
If I'm not mistaken, he uses modified MR4TC caster blocks.
Ahh, right. Cheers.


Johnbull:

Could you just confirm that this is indeed the case.
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Old 03-02-2004, 10:41 AM   #7256
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Quote:
Originally posted by caveman

lee82gx, one personal question. do you know any good shops and tracks in Kuala Lumpur, I shall visit Malaysia next month. thax.
you have PM
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Old 03-02-2004, 12:18 PM   #7257
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Sorry, lee82gx, can you send it one more time, thax
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:11 PM   #7258
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caveman:
i've resent.
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:51 PM   #7259
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Do you guys boil the one-way gears ??
any recipes?
I've been told to let it soak in boiling hot water for 30 mins,and let the water cool .
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Old 03-02-2004, 10:14 PM   #7260
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Well took me a week but I finally read though most of this thread!I have been racing off road for a while now but on road looks like a lot of fun. Been trying to make my mind up TC3 or a Yokomo.
CGM looks nice!

Decisions!

OK enough typing lurk mode back on....
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