Yokomo MR-4TC SD

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  • BTW, if anyone needs a 1 way diff, I have a spare that I'll sell for $25 shipped in the US, includes diff gear and drive cups.
  • Eye opener
    I've just been quoted US$236 for a CGM.
    compare that to US$315 for a FTTC3.
  • Re: Eye opener
    Quote:
    Originally posted by lee82gx
    I've just been quoted US$236 for a CGM.
    compare that to US$315 for a FTTC3.
    Yep, it's a very decent price and should shake things up a bit.

    What a shame the SD gained a reputation for being such a fragile car last year though - anyone contemplating buying a CGM over an FT would have this fact thrust at them by the AE camp, so I think there's a way to go yet.

    I think the CGM will have to really prove it's worth first before there are any radical change in trends. But it could happen - when it does, no doubt AE will then dangle the TC4 under all our noses

    Game on
  • Horatio:
    But for the $80 bucks extra you'd get more than your fair share of extra spares.
    besides,the TC3 (speaking blasphemy here) is no board slapping air-flipping hero either.I know,i own one!

    Game on indeed!
  • I own a TC3 too - I raced it for 2 seasons and it NEVER broke any parts, despite the odd trip into the boards.

    The SD's on the other hand at the same tracks in just a couple of months had ALL broken

    C Carriers

    Steering arms

    Wishbones

    Driveshafts

    In plentiful numbers - some of the parts were a joke. Not being able to buy the front steering arms as a pair is not very funny though.

    Thank the lord that the graphite parts came out. Also thank the lord for team suzuki steering arms!! I still break the occassional C Carrier, but alot less since the H versions came out. That kind of reputation takes longer than a couple of months to shake off, even though Yokomo have made a real effort to address all the problems. We still can't get G version carriers here in the UK though and this point is particularly bugging me.

    (edited for grammar reasons only)
  • Don't get the G version if you have the suzuki front hubs, my mate bent hims on his first outing with the graphite C-Hubs (C-Hub and wishbone broken, steering hub bent ). The crash was huge though, but he've been using the H C-Hubs for more than 6 months with no problem, so he got back to these.

    How did you manage to break a H C-Hub ?
  • I don't want to give anyone the impression I'm trying to bash the SD - cos I'm not.

    But I'll always respond to messages that suggest that the SD is just as durable as the TC3 because this is simply not the case. The TC3 is a far more forgiving car to board slapping. As racers at all levels read these posts, I like to see a balanced source of information. Even though it pains me to say that the corners of the SD are more fragile than that of the TC3, it happens to be the truth.

    But I for one will still be racing SD (RS) next winter season - I've ridden out the storm and 'found the calm' As I've pointed out, the Yokomo is a very satisfying car to own, race and wrench on once the teething problems are sorted out.
  • I didn't say that you are not skilled, but my mate is not of the best drivers and he kept the same H C-Hubs since he got them in august, same for me, so I'm very surprised that you broke them.

    Besides, I was just giving you an advice about the graphite C-hubs because it could happen to you. Just as an information, the same crash happened to a pro4 5 minutes later and the car broke as well.
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by Cobra81li200
    Don't get the G version if you have the suzuki front hubs, my mate bent hims on his first outing with the graphite C-Hubs (C-Hub and wishbone broken, steering hub bent ). The crash was huge though, but he've been using the H C-Hubs for more than 6 months with no problem, so he got back to these.

    How did you manage to break a H C-Hub ?
    Sounds like an almighty whack


    maybe he felt like his car was bullet proof because it sported alloy bits

    How did I break an H C-Hub? Good question! My first run with the H version ended in disaster - no crash, no collision - nothing of the kind AND I finished the round but I noticed the car pulling to the side after about 10 laps. Checked the car - crack at the bottom of H version c- carrier. When I looked at the part, there was what looked like a bubble in the moulding thus the subsequent crack and failure. Since then I had a set of H versions last for ages, but I whacked a car that jumped the track head on and cracked another.

    My last set of 4134H, which I haven't even taken out of the bag are actually standard 4134 pieces in the wrong bag Honestly - I'll post a picture of them next to proper 4134H pieces if no-one believes me!! I've a good mind to send them back, but not before I take a picture of them

    Regards the steering arms, I actually run Suzuki rear hubs and Fastrax MR4 front steering arms. I've not bent them yet.

    Where did your mate get the G version c carriers - or did he get them through you via speedtech?
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by Cobra81li200
    I didn't say that you are not skilled, but my mate is not of the best drivers and he kept the same H C-Hubs since he got them in august, same for me, so I'm very surprised that you broke them.

    Besides, I was just giving you an advice about the graphite C-hubs because it could happen to you. Just as an information, the same crash happened to a pro4 5 minutes later and the car broke as well.
    Our messages crossed The post you just responed to was not aimed at you, but merely a continuation of what I was saying previously. You should have my response to you by now though with a bit of luck - sometimes you have to hit refresh before you get the latest messages. Confusing isn't it?

  • Cobra:

    BTW the tip is appreciated. All I'd like now is the oppurtunity to try the G carriers, but I'm not importing a part that costs less than the shipping!!!

    Why aren't they here in the UK yet?!
  • yup Steve does a gr8 job.

    I believe that the latest 4134 parts have been updated to the H versions, it's already the case in the kits (as for the front axles).

    I saw this problem of bubbles and bi-phased material even in graphite parts. I am planning on taking pictures of a broken graphite wishbone and send it to Masayuki Hiosaka. The part just broke in a corner. I believe cracks have appeared in precedent crashes, but the part was defective. BTW the part had been boiled before.

    IMHO this comes from two problems : too much air in the liquid plastic, which makes bubbles appear during the cooling process,. The second one being a mold or a plastic temperature being too low causing early solidification. I believe the problems are closely related, as if there are problems with the plastic containing too much air, you want to lower the liquid material's temperature.

    I think this is a complex problem, and to solve it will take a lot of time, as changing only one parameter will not solve it, but I also think they need as much feedback as possible, reason why I collect every broken part that shows a defect.
  • I've always thought that if something's gotta break it's gotta break.
    whole car with aluminium is still gonna have some damage in any crash.
    I've driven a TB-III with graphite arms and hubs,but out of every bad crash the hinge pins and suspension mounts are bent out of shape.It's worst than breaking a plastic part.


    That's why i'm thinking of converting the whole suspension/steering into graphite except for 1 sacrificial part.
    You guys have suggestions?
  • While i was in Japan i got a Team Bomber center dogbone, its graphite with pinned alloy ends, very light and very nice. Rick
  • Get graphite wishbones / hus but keep the hard C-Hubs. Should be no problems with these.

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