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Old 02-26-2004, 08:28 AM   #7126
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
Yeah, having to sell it to fix my STi bumper.
STi???
As in GDB???? You scratched it in an autotest or something??

Cheers
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Old 02-26-2004, 08:51 AM   #7127
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Hi guys..
I'm new to the SD..so forgive the ignorance
I've heard seen pictures of the servo in different positions.

I would like to know how to change the stock position to the one similar to TB-Evo and TC3.

Also,is there any benefit in doing this(besides the extra space)
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Old 02-26-2004, 09:27 AM   #7128
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Quote:
Originally posted by Horatio
Hi Guys!

Sorry if I what I said wasn't clear.

The tie rods are much lower with the 'new' steering arrangement - the bellcranks are kind of upside down compared to the stock set-up. As the tie rods are lower at the servo saver side, the tie rods have to connect to the underside of the steering arms. Trouble is, when you apply lock, the tie rods foul the balls for the anti roll bar pick ups. These have now been removed - I don't ever use them any way. The other problem is that they catch the pivot pin mounts. Not good. Perhaps it's because I use MR4 alloy steering arms?

For now I've re-arranged the steering so it's in the normal position but unfortunately it means that (for the time being at least) I cannot use the beautifully fashioned WCF link/flanged bearings that connects the 2 bellcranks

However, the steering is great - the new servo position moves the weight forward and in slightly and allows more space for the electronics. Can't wait to try it on the track. I'll post some pictures soon.

Multi coloured blue, red, silver and black SD - there can't be many of these around

Horatio
The ball cups definately do take a lot of space, trim the top of them where they are hitting the arm mount. I didn't know you were using MR4TC alloy arms, but the problem propably lies in there somewhere, I have no idea what they look like, but this setup was fine with SD arms.
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Old 02-26-2004, 09:28 AM   #7129
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Quote:
Originally posted by NightKidZ
STi???
As in GDB???? You scratched it in an autotest or something??

Cheers
Actually I was driving it home from the track, and a truck somewhere in front of me blew a tire, the person in front of me kicked the tire up and cracked my bumper, bent my air splitter, and I lost my foglight cover.
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Old 02-26-2004, 09:40 AM   #7130
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
Actually I was driving it home from the track, and a truck somewhere in front of me blew a tire, the person in front of me kicked the tire up and cracked my bumper, bent my air splitter, and I lost my foglight cover.
That's rotten luck. But at least that truck didn't cause a worse accident or hit you

Hope your 1:1 gets sorted soon!

When I get some suzuki alloy front arms, I'll try your alternative upside down arrangement. I like the WCF linkage with the flanged bearings and those little anodised red spacers, so it's only a matter of time.....

Horatio
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Old 02-26-2004, 09:46 AM   #7131
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
Actually I was driving it home from the track, and a truck somewhere in front of me blew a tire, the person in front of me kicked the tire up and cracked my bumper, bent my air splitter, and I lost my foglight cover.
I bet that's just minor compared what happen to my 3mo old Odyssee... it happened just last Tuesday 24th... and What a day to spend my Birthday...

luckily no one was injured..especially my wife and my precious 2yo son.

the driver just rammed into the rear end without breaking.... he was driving a F250 service van... something must of been up...police hand-cuffed him and hauled his ass to jail....

Insurance will fully replace the van...
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Old 02-26-2004, 09:59 AM   #7132
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Right, here's a couple of pic's:

RS Chassis, view from the electronics side.
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Old 02-26-2004, 10:02 AM   #7133
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
That's a good starting point for where you have the shocks mounted, but for the camber links, I've never had to run the upper holes at SoCal, just try playing around with settings on the lower holes and you should find something that works.
Cool, Thanks for the help. Now If I can just get out off helping some friends move on Saturday I will be able to try it. Other wise it looks like Tues thta is if traffic is not a nightmare. I cant leave Rancho Cucamonga until 5:00.
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Old 02-26-2004, 10:07 AM   #7134
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
I bet that's just minor compared what happen to my 3mo old Odyssee... it happened just last Tuesday 24th... and What a day to spend my Birthday...

luckily no one was injured..especially my wife and my precious 2yo son.

the driver just rammed into the rear end without breaking.... he was driving a F250 service van... something must of been up...police hand-cuffed him and hauled his ass to jail....

Insurance will fully replace the van...
That's a helluva whack! Your little lad must have been pretty shaken up, assuming he was sitting right in the back!

Good job the police did take him away - FOR HIS OWN SAFETY - cos i bet you wanted to kick his butt!! I know I would have......
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Old 02-26-2004, 10:09 AM   #7135
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Quote:
Originally posted by Horatio
That's rotten luck. But at least that truck didn't cause a worse accident or hit you

Hope your 1:1 gets sorted soon!

When I get some suzuki alloy front arms, I'll try your alternative upside down arrangement. I like the WCF linkage with the flanged bearings and those little anodised red spacers, so it's only a matter of time.....

Horatio
Why run alloy arms? They just risk breaking the pivot support which is just as hard to change out as an arm. Then if you go to an aluminum support, the strain goes right to the chassis...
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Old 02-26-2004, 10:11 AM   #7136
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Quote:
Originally posted by tcmerf
Cool, Thanks for the help. Now If I can just get out off helping some friends move on Saturday I will be able to try it. Other wise it looks like Tues thta is if traffic is not a nightmare. I cant leave Rancho Cucamonga until 5:00.
There is also a race on Sunday at RC Heat. I always just run my SoCal setup at the parking lot tracks, but everyone seems to agree that this is a really nice track.
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Old 02-26-2004, 10:11 AM   #7137
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And the steering arrangement:
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Old 02-26-2004, 10:17 AM   #7138
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And the view from my window as I did the change over:

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Old 02-26-2004, 10:31 AM   #7139
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
Why run alloy arms? They just risk breaking the pivot support which is just as hard to change out as an arm. Then if you go to an aluminum support, the strain goes right to the chassis...
Well I see your point, but this why. I broke the first steering arm very quickly when I first ran the kit. I didn't hit anything, it just failed where the king pin goes in. Without going over it all over again, the steering arms, wishbones and c carriers were just plain weak. The new 0 type steering arms are supposed to be much better according to Cobra, but I've already upgraded to Alloy steering arms and they just don't break. Neither do the graphite wishbones. And the H version c carriers are clearly much better too, though I would rather be using the G versions - they still haven't turned up in the UK yet. I haven't broken anything since doing this, so clearly it can work - I haven't broken a single chassis yet..........but my car does finish a day's racing without busting something

I reckon the plastic pivot mounts would break before the chassis at any rate, so I'm not really worried. I've yet to break one of these, though I see there are alloy ones available for people that do want to break their chassis

Last edited by Horatio; 02-26-2004 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 02-26-2004, 10:33 AM   #7140
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Quote:
Originally posted by lee82gx
Hi guys..
I'm new to the SD..so forgive the ignorance
I've heard seen pictures of the servo in different positions.

I would like to know how to change the stock position to the one similar to TB-Evo and TC3.

Also,is there any benefit in doing this(besides the extra space)
Here, scroll towards the middle.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...pagenumber=234
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