Yokomo MR-4TC SD
#7111
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by Randman
Im having a hard time visualizing your problem. I did have to cut the top off of the ball cup so that it wouldn't rub on the front arm pivot block, but I didn't have any other rubbing issues besides that.
Glad you like everything, that chassis should hold up on some pretty high traction tracks.
Im having a hard time visualizing your problem. I did have to cut the top off of the ball cup so that it wouldn't rub on the front arm pivot block, but I didn't have any other rubbing issues besides that.
Glad you like everything, that chassis should hold up on some pretty high traction tracks.
#7114
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Originally posted by pops
I think the upper bar is attached to the back outer ball studs on the arm. The steering links and the steering hubs can hit those ball studs.
I think the upper bar is attached to the back outer ball studs on the arm. The steering links and the steering hubs can hit those ball studs.
Horatio - Did you move the ball stud from the top side of the spindle to the bottom side?
#7115
Randman:
So how did you do last night w/ the CGM? Also how is the Excel delrin diff holding up?
So how did you do last night w/ the CGM? Also how is the Excel delrin diff holding up?
#7116
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Originally posted by forty6
Randman:
So how did you do last night w/ the CGM? Also how is the Excel delrin diff holding up?
Randman:
So how did you do last night w/ the CGM? Also how is the Excel delrin diff holding up?
The Excel outdrives show no sign of wear as of yet, hopefully it'll stay that way
#7117
Tech Fanatic
I took Randman's advice and got the one way and the inline spindles. I also got the Rayspeed towers. Where are you guys running the shocks and camber link mounts. I started with the second hole in on the arms and he third hole in on the towers with the upper link on the upper inner hole. Also the Is it correct that the stock front arm mount gives the car 1 degree of front kickup?
#7118
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Originally posted by tcmerf
I took Randman's advice and got the one way and the inline spindles. I also got the Rayspeed towers. Where are you guys running the shocks and camber link mounts. I started with the second hole in on the arms and he third hole in on the towers with the upper link on the upper inner hole. Also the Is it correct that the stock front arm mount gives the car 1 degree of front kickup?
I took Randman's advice and got the one way and the inline spindles. I also got the Rayspeed towers. Where are you guys running the shocks and camber link mounts. I started with the second hole in on the arms and he third hole in on the towers with the upper link on the upper inner hole. Also the Is it correct that the stock front arm mount gives the car 1 degree of front kickup?
#7119
Anyone know where I can get some more Excel outdrives? I fried mine up running the diffs too loose on Mod Carpet. Spun the diff rings. Sucks. I really liked them outdrives. Would like to get some more before we head back outdoors.
#7120
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Originally posted by KilRuf
Anyone know where I can get some more Excel outdrives? I fried mine up running the diffs too loose on Mod Carpet. Spun the diff rings. Sucks. I really liked them outdrives. Would like to get some more before we head back outdoors.
Anyone know where I can get some more Excel outdrives? I fried mine up running the diffs too loose on Mod Carpet. Spun the diff rings. Sucks. I really liked them outdrives. Would like to get some more before we head back outdoors.
#7121
Tech Regular
randman,
Is that your GT4 on ebay...? looks like your style lol (RED)
Is that your GT4 on ebay...? looks like your style lol (RED)
#7123
Tech Regular
that sucks. Do strip and re-anodize all of your aluminum parts on your cars.
#7125
Hi Guys!
Sorry if I what I said wasn't clear.
The tie rods are much lower with the 'new' steering arrangement - the bellcranks are kind of upside down compared to the stock set-up. As the tie rods are lower at the servo saver side, the tie rods have to connect to the underside of the steering arms. Trouble is, when you apply lock, the tie rods foul the balls for the anti roll bar pick ups. These have now been removed - I don't ever use them any way. The other problem is that they catch the pivot pin mounts. Not good. Perhaps it's because I use MR4 alloy steering arms?
For now I've re-arranged the steering so it's in the normal position but unfortunately it means that (for the time being at least) I cannot use the beautifully fashioned WCF link/flanged bearings that connects the 2 bellcranks
However, the steering is great - the new servo position moves the weight forward and in slightly and allows more space for the electronics. Can't wait to try it on the track. I'll post some pictures soon.
Multi coloured blue, red, silver and black SD - there can't be many of these around
Horatio
Sorry if I what I said wasn't clear.
The tie rods are much lower with the 'new' steering arrangement - the bellcranks are kind of upside down compared to the stock set-up. As the tie rods are lower at the servo saver side, the tie rods have to connect to the underside of the steering arms. Trouble is, when you apply lock, the tie rods foul the balls for the anti roll bar pick ups. These have now been removed - I don't ever use them any way. The other problem is that they catch the pivot pin mounts. Not good. Perhaps it's because I use MR4 alloy steering arms?
For now I've re-arranged the steering so it's in the normal position but unfortunately it means that (for the time being at least) I cannot use the beautifully fashioned WCF link/flanged bearings that connects the 2 bellcranks
However, the steering is great - the new servo position moves the weight forward and in slightly and allows more space for the electronics. Can't wait to try it on the track. I'll post some pictures soon.
Multi coloured blue, red, silver and black SD - there can't be many of these around
Horatio