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Old 02-16-2004, 06:48 PM   #6901
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I got the real high end one, they start at only about $500, not bad at all...
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Old 02-16-2004, 07:02 PM   #6902
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I'll have to check em out
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Old 02-16-2004, 07:14 PM   #6903
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Hey I'm looking for a Yokomo GT4 Wide bumper for my X Ray and I was wondering, wheres the cheapest place to buy Yokomo parts? Or does anyone have an extra they'd be interested in selling? Thanks.
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Old 02-16-2004, 07:18 PM   #6904
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Originally posted by psbarger
Hey I'm looking for a Yokomo GT4 Wide bumper for my X Ray and I was wondering, wheres the cheapest place to buy Yokomo parts? Or does anyone have an extra they'd be interested in selling? Thanks.
Speedtechrc.com should have what you need at a good price.
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Old 02-16-2004, 08:09 PM   #6905
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
I use a Sherline mill, from what I found, they are the best quality, I have a model 2010, I believe it was around $950.
Sherline make quality tools...but too expensive for me... my bro has the mini lathe..too bad I can't convert it into a mill...I inquired...it was cheaper to buy a new one...
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Old 02-16-2004, 08:29 PM   #6906
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Originally posted by rc-zombies
Sherline make quality tools...but too expensive for me... my bro has the mini lathe..too bad I can't convert it into a mill...I inquired...it was cheaper to buy a new one...
A lathe is my next investment tool wise
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Old 02-16-2004, 10:36 PM   #6907
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What do I have to expect when switching from the Stratus 2.0 to the Yokomo/Chevron G350? People have been telling me about getting more steering... but is straightline traction affected? Will the SD be more twitchy? The Alfa made my car twitchy(not my style of driving). I'm hoping the G350 is somewhere in between...
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Old 02-16-2004, 10:45 PM   #6908
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Originally posted by eeyan
What do I have to expect when switching from the Stratus 2.0 to the Yokomo/Chevron G350? People have been telling me about getting more steering... but is straightline traction affected? Will the SD be more twitchy? The Alfa made my car twitchy(not my style of driving). I'm hoping the G350 is somewhere in between...
I havent run the G350 yet, been wanting to try it, but I'm going to try to get a little faster with the Losi Alfa first. I really didn't like the body at all early in the day on Tuesday, but as I got used to the twitchyness, I got faster with the body, and am going to use it tomorrow. I think any body can work if you get a good setup for it.
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Old 02-16-2004, 11:42 PM   #6909
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Quote:
Originally posted by eeyan
What do I have to expect when switching from the Stratus 2.0 to the Yokomo/Chevron G350? People have been telling me about getting more steering... but is straightline traction affected? Will the SD be more twitchy? The Alfa made my car twitchy(not my style of driving). I'm hoping the G350 is somewhere in between...
You will have more steering but it won't be as twitchy as with the alfa.
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Old 02-17-2004, 02:48 AM   #6910
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I found that at high speed it had loads of rear end grip, but loads of steering at low speed.
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Old 02-17-2004, 05:18 AM   #6911
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sorcerer001

What are the problems encountered with the Yokomo? Are there easy fixes that don't require importing a ton of parts from Europe or Japan?
I'm sure that some of the answers lie in the 200+ pages here, but I don't have the patience to browse through all of them. Any help would be apprecieated. Thanks!
Please bear in mind that there are people on this thread that just won't have anything bad said about the SD SSG whatsoever

I'll only give you frank, honest information based on my experiences - I'll not be sucked in by the 'Emperor's new clothes' syndrome.

If you're used to racing a TC3, racing the box standard SD SSG may actually be a bit of a dissappointment. I used to race TC3's and still own a couple. You'll need to do stuff to th SD if you want to race indoors on carpet.

First off - driveshafts. If you're lucky, they'll be fine. If you're like alot of us, you'll find they'll either seize solid, bend or on occassion break if you run a spool. You can get the standard driveshafts to work just fine, but you'll need ensure there is a PROPER clearance where the 'barrel' that holds the pin goes through the hole in the CVD. Dremmel or file these holes and at least remove the black coating. The polished pins in the joint can also 'slide out' - the grubscrew has a hard job holding them. It's a good idea to use threadlock, ensuring that NO SURPLUS runs onto the barrel!! Even this doesn't guarantee the pin staying put, so use a thin band of heat shrink around each axle to actually help hold the pins captive.

The diff outs wear quite badly/quickly, even in stock class racing. The best way to prevent this is to use Blades on the ends of the driveshafts. This reduces the slop too and makes the car nicer to drive. Check page 218 on how to do this. RC lab or Corally Assasin blades work well, don't take long to fit and cost very little.

Steering arms - the less said the better. Unlike a TC3, the steering arms break easily. Replace with alloy items. The plastic ones WILL BREAK (unless you are Masami) and each time you replace them, you have to buy 4 at a time!!!! You only have to do this twice and you realise you could have had Alloy ones for the same amount of money spent. Oh, and the fact that they look nice doesn't hurt either.

Rear hubs - a loose pin from a drive shaft will cut through a plastic hub in less time than it takes to put a hot knife through butter. Get the alloy items if you can.

Wishbones - get the graphaite ones. Despite the fact that graphite is supposed to be LESS durable, the plastic wishbones are so poor when compared to AE or Schumacher that getting the Carbon Fibre Reinforced Wishbones actually improves the durability side of things. The plastic ones don't appear to have any form of fibre reinforcement at all - not even glass. So they break. Period - NO arguments.

C Carriers (C Hub Carriers) - the normal 4134 versions are very weak and prone to breaking. Just riding the curbs can make them fail. 4134H carriers are much thicker (like about 75% thicker!!) so these are a much wiser choice. Ideally, the graphite versions could be good too, but I have yet to even see them here in the UK - let alone try them. I don't know whether they are moulded based on the 4134 or 4134H - hopefully the latter. They are available in the USA as far as I know.

Chassis - well it looks really nice, but it does allow quite alot of lateral flex. This doesn't have to be a bad thing for tarmac, but for carpet racing it kind of makes the car feel like it's 'bogging down'. Why does the chassis flex? Is it because it's silver surface? No actually - it's because the Carbon Fibre only has the 0 and 90 degree laminates - the 45 degree laminates are completely absent. This is why alot of people here on the thread use after market chassis - they are stiffer in all directions. You can even get Woven Carbon Fibre tub chassis here in the UK - they are light, extremely stiff and work very well indeed but cost 's.

The SD SSG is a very nicely designed car. The tranny is super smooth and is easier to service than a TC3. The car has real style, loads more than ANY moulded composite tub car IMO. When set-up, it can win at the highest level and frequently does. Despite the teething problems, the car has been very satisfying to own and race. At the last 2 'big' meetings, I've had 2 A final finishes - and I'm not the best driver - I like to think that my ride got me in there

Last edited by Horatio; 02-17-2004 at 05:39 AM.
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Old 02-17-2004, 05:57 AM   #6912
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Horatio : I've got all graphite parts, they definately are the things to get. The C-Hubs are based on the H version, so will not break.

The Front 0mm trail hubs (part SD415SG) are a different molding than the stock ones, they hold the king pin much better (actually you can tighten the king pins !) and are much durable. No breakage so far after one big event (the HPI Challenge).

Definately two parts to get ! And the 0mm trail hubs comes in pair, not with the rear hub like the stock ones.

About wear on the outdrives, I still have not chaged mines after 8 months of intensive racing... I might try your blades mod though, but am afraid about how hard will it be to take a diff out. The stock ones are already a pain to make pass the outdrive ring...
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Old 02-17-2004, 06:09 AM   #6913
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cobra81li200
Horatio : I've got all graphite parts, they definately are the things to get. The C-Hubs are based on the H version, so will not break.

The Front 0mm trail hubs (part SD415SG) are a different molding than the stock ones, they hold the king pin much better (actually you can tighten the king pins !) and are much durable. No breakage so far after one big event (the HPI Challenge).

Definately two parts to get ! And the 0mm trail hubs comes in pair, not with the rear hub like the stock ones.

About wear on the outdrives, I still have not chaged mines after 8 months of intensive racing... I might try your blades mod though, but am afraid about how hard will it be to take a diff out. The stock ones are already a pain to make pass the outdrive ring...
Thanks for the tips!!

Where the hell did you get your graphite c-hubs from?!! I've been waiting for the best part of 3 months now from Microtech Racing - still nothing

Please let me know ASAP
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Old 02-17-2004, 06:17 AM   #6914
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speed tech, had them ordered on monday, at home on friday... Aswell with loads of new parts, and the G350GT bodyshell that I did like actually...
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Old 02-17-2004, 06:19 AM   #6915
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Regarding the blades:

Getting them past the blue O-rings isn't too bad. You have to chamfer the corners of the blades. If you're still worried, you can (very carefully) machine two small 'notches' at opposite sides of the rings to allow a little more space, but it's not actually essential.

So long as you undo the shocks at the bottom, remove the alloy blue hex's and also the pins from the bottom of the carriers, it's fairly painless. I can pop mine out and back in again in 5 minutes

Just do it, you know it makes sense.....
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