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Old 02-11-2004, 04:59 PM   #6796
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Make sure your RX plug wire for the ESC are not running together or across the power wire for the ESC thats the must common cause for a glitch.
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Old 02-11-2004, 05:02 PM   #6797
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My electronics are pretty packed in there too, but I didn't have any glitching problems. I'm running an Airtronics 94755 servo, LRP Quantum 2 and KO 297 75Mhz receiver.

Randman, how do you like that S9550 servo? I was thinking of getting one. They are hard to find, in stock, though.
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Old 02-11-2004, 06:04 PM   #6798
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Matt,

what spring cups and shock bottoms do you use with the associated springs...and also I was wondering why MO uses the older shock caps. DO u just find them easier to bleed?
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Old 02-11-2004, 06:32 PM   #6799
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kenneth Tan
Fire,

Don't get me wrong. I am not trying to shoot down the CGM. Until just a few days ago, I had an SSG SD, I sold the car less options and spares as I planned to get the CGM.

The chassis weight bugs me because I have normal sized electronics.

Graphite tubs are generally more resistant to flexing, especially when compared with their standard plastic counterparts. How sure are you that the CGM chassis would be tweak free? The TC3 has been out for a couple of years now, and I frequently see on the forums that the TC3 chassis will tweak because of motor heat, and stay tweaked. The CGM and TC3 might not be tweaked because of a collision though.
it's cool

i haven't try the CGM yet so don't know how tweak free it can be, but as you mentioned the tub should handle slight bumps and hits better than the stock chassis

weight is definitely a factor here coz there's no weight control, the ligher the car the more advantage you have

besides the CGM i am also considering the BMI conversion, their TC3 chassis seems pretty decent
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Old 02-11-2004, 07:00 PM   #6800
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
One more thing, the car did glitch from start to finish yesterday, I actually changed everything out short of the servo and ESC. I moved the transponder away from the electronics, threw in a new reciever, a new motor, put ferrite over the power wires, and still glitching. I have a little 160mah reciever pack that I bought for my 1/12 scale car, but I'm going to throw that in there to see if maybe the ESC isn't powering up the reciever fully. I'll also bring a new ESC to the track next week to test as a last resort type thing, but Ive never had a glitching problem with these same electronics in the past.
May I know if the antenna mount is part of the chassis?
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Old 02-11-2004, 07:04 PM   #6801
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kenneth Tan
May I know if the antenna mount is part of the chassis?
No its not, it screws onto the chassis.
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Old 02-11-2004, 07:06 PM   #6802
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shortygy, yes, I just like the way I can adjust the reboud to whatever I want.

Kenneth Tan, the antenna mount bolts to the chassis, just behind the servo.
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Old 02-11-2004, 07:14 PM   #6803
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Quote:
Originally posted by shortygy
Matt,

what spring cups and shock bottoms do you use with the associated springs...and also I was wondering why MO uses the older shock caps. DO u just find them easier to bleed?
I use the stock shock ends and the rayspeed cups
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Old 02-11-2004, 07:35 PM   #6804
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Quote:
Originally posted by mo
My electronics are pretty packed in there too, but I didn't have any glitching problems. I'm running an Airtronics 94755 servo, LRP Quantum 2 and KO 297 75Mhz receiver.

Randman, how do you like that S9550 servo? I was thinking of getting one. They are hard to find, in stock, though.
The servo is great actually, but I had a hard time finding it as well until Ramon hooked me up with servocity.com
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Old 02-11-2004, 07:59 PM   #6805
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Quote:
Originally posted by sosidge
Unlikely methinks, since the Yoke Hardened Uni's are a totally different design.

Unless the "seizing" is some kind of virus that's spreading around the Yokomo factory...
Not sure whether this has been mentioned before...

Last night, I rebuilt all 4 universals. I went about the usual step of using thread lock for the grub screw. Once completed, I left them aside, in prep for my new car. After I came back to them, I realised that one of the universals binded badly, which I didn't feel directly after assembly. Upon checking, I found that some threadlock actually went into the barrel and dried up.

I was thinking that could those of you had CVD problems, have put in the CVDs in the car before the threadlock has dried up?
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Old 02-11-2004, 10:11 PM   #6806
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Make sure you grind the ball end up to the pins on the universals. They will hit the inside of the outdrives if this isn't done. I have not bent a hardened universal in the 8 months of running them. I have seen them bend with a one-way, but I believe that was due to them hitting the outdrive cups when the suspension was compressed.

You only need a small dab of threadlock on the setscrew. If you get anything on the coupler, they will seize up.

I have over 40 packs in the CGM with no sign of tweek issues. 19 turn motors at the Birds where super hot due to the amount of timing ran in them. Car also took some serious hits on the track. The car did not show any tweek problems at all. Came off the track with the same tweek as it went on with. It was also more consistant every run then a standard chassis.
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Old 02-11-2004, 10:39 PM   #6807
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kenneth Tan
May I know if the antenna mount is part of the chassis?
No, I actually use an Associated universal antenna mount.
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Old 02-11-2004, 10:41 PM   #6808
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Quote:
Originally posted by mo
shortygy, yes, I just like the way I can adjust the reboud to whatever I want.

Kenneth Tan, the antenna mount bolts to the chassis, just behind the servo.
I'm using the plastic shock tops as well, the dampening just feels smoother IMO.
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Old 02-11-2004, 10:52 PM   #6809
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hmmm sounds like im trying those
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Old 02-11-2004, 11:11 PM   #6810
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Quote:
Originally posted by shortygy
hmmm sounds like im trying those
They are cheap and fairly easy to find, definately worth a shot.
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