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Old 02-01-2004, 10:05 PM   #6451
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Jeff, I've had this problem before with stock Yok axles/bones, Square Ti axles/bones, Tobee bones, Yok Aluminiun bones, Yok Harden universals. Basically car is super smooth goin straight. But once in a turn, the wheel will chatter at full lock. I tossed in a oneway and the problem was gone. I tossed in a spool... the problem was there. Tossed in a tight diff, problem was there. Tossed in a medium tight diff and I think it went away. Basically I think if you have a very tight diff... or a spool, it will chatter. That's just been my observation. It was very frustrating trying to figure it out spending $100's on axles trying to get rid of it till I changed out the spool.

A friend with a TC3 running a spool had the exact same problem. He changed every single thing out except the spool. I told him to toss the spool and put in a diff. Guess what, the chattering went away. haha

Also, try taking the wheels off the car. Then go full lock to lock and try that out. I found that it was smooth with the wheels off. But once on... it chattered again. And this was with balanced wheels and tires. Strange..... Anyways, no problems anymore.....
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Old 02-01-2004, 10:06 PM   #6452
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Quote:
Originally posted by DHMOTORSPORTS
So..How did Robert do this weekend with the CGM?
Robert was fast, he said it drove totally different than the BS, SSG, or RS cars. Unfortunately the competition at SoCal is pretty stiff, and he was a bit off pace.
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Old 02-01-2004, 10:08 PM   #6453
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Quote:
Originally posted by 2Tenths
Randman - I'm getting my CGM from Speedtech on Wed, and was wondering about this steering-binding problem. Is it an issue with the molded materials that I can fix with a hobby knife, or is it just a steering trim problem? Could you post pics of your car, and show us what you're talking about? Thanks

Jeff - I had the same problem I while ago. It turned out that the set screw on the inside of the driveshaft coupler had come loose, and the pin was sliding out. Locktite =
The problem is with the left bellcrank. Once you get your car, do the steering first and post if there's a problem, if it was just our cars for some reason then I dont really want to do a write up on how to free things up. If you and others have the problem as well, I'll get some pics and instructions.
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Old 02-01-2004, 10:14 PM   #6454
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All of your post is the process that I have gone through. With my car the cars will actually feel like the breaks are on and will not roll. This has caused the car to spin out in a hard left turn. By not a problem anymore you mean....I know after tonight what that would mean to me....LOL

I have always driven Yoks and drives me crazy to have something that does not work correctly.

Jeff
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Old 02-01-2004, 10:48 PM   #6455
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The Yokomo crew at the Snowbirds have their CGM stuff, the cars seem awesome. They spin up freely and look stiff as a brick. Track doesn't open until tomorrow night but lots of people have been checking them out.
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Old 02-01-2004, 10:58 PM   #6456
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I'm waiting on my ceramic bearings to arrive and then I'll finish my CGM.
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Old 02-02-2004, 01:22 AM   #6457
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Wow, I just got the electronics installed in my cgm, I can't believe what a tight fit it is. I'm using a S9550, HRS reciever, and M800C ESC, and if my gear was 1mm longer, I wouldn't have enough room, it's a perfect fit. I'll get some pics tomorrow.
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Old 02-02-2004, 02:05 AM   #6458
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Howdy folks,

Jeff: miscellaneous things to check (I'm sure you've done them already, but you never know...):
- rim spokes could be hitting C-hub if you use upper hinge hole
- worn-out bones where the CVD pin "bites" in and creates a flat spot (has happened on my car)
- gone-out pin (big classic)

Randman: please share it with us, here on the forum, not by PM. That's the whole goal of having a forum, sharing information. Given the amounts of post you put on this forum on a daily basis, I'm assuming time is not an issue for you and you can spend a few minutes describing the procedure. Else I will just have to send you a PM A good trick to remove slop on the left side is to mount a full servo-saver assembly there, too.

Later yall

Paul
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Old 02-02-2004, 04:57 AM   #6459
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff Werner
I have always driven Yoks and drives me crazy to have something that does not work correctly.

Jeff
Well I know where your coming from Jeff. The standard driveshafts vary by all accounts from being fine with no problems to being rubbish with seizing problems.

You, I and many other racers seem to have had the latter variety. Basically the problem is just as pheyhoe described but 'running in' alone is not likely to prevent the problems you describe from re-occuring.

You need to use a dremmel and machine the hole where the barrel slides through and then polish it. No trace of black should be present on either the barrel or the hole. The barrell should be a clearance fit in the hole for the driveshaft to work correctly. If it is left, you will seize one or more of your driveshafts. If a front driveshaft seizes you will most likely break a c/hub due to the extreme vibration.

Regarding the pins, the grub screw doesnt have much to grab on the tiny little pin!! And they vibrate loose, good bye pin! Goodbye rear hub - those pins cut through the stock plastic like a hot knife through butter. Thread lock should be applied but care should be take to ensure that no threadlock gets through to the barrel. In addition I use a thin band of heat shrink to hold the pins in place (an old off-roaders trick!) - belt and braces. I haven't had problems with the shafts or the pins since AND it costs nothing to follow these procedures - there is no need to buy alternative driveshafts.

The problem with this topic of conversation is that it attracts the 'nothing is wrong with Yok - go and drive a TC3' brigade

Good luck!
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Old 02-02-2004, 05:13 AM   #6460
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My RC Lab C Blades have only just arrived from modeltech, so I didn't get a chance to race them over the weekend afterall.

The part number is 7S-011-TC

You get four blades per pack @ 3.95

Apparently they are a direct fit onto the stock metric driveshafts for the Yok SD - only the diff out slots need filing .4 mm per side.

When I put them on (some time tonight) I'll take some pictures and post them.

Last edited by Horatio; 02-02-2004 at 06:22 AM.
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Old 02-02-2004, 09:29 AM   #6461
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
Wow, I just got the electronics installed in my cgm, I can't believe what a tight fit it is. I'm using a S9550, HRS reciever, and M800C ESC, and if my gear was 1mm longer, I wouldn't have enough room, it's a perfect fit. I'll get some pics tomorrow.
Wow sounds like a tight fit. Especially with the 9550 servo in as they are narrow.
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Old 02-02-2004, 10:09 AM   #6462
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What are the advantages/ disadvantages of running these so-called "blades"? What is the real reason for this extra money?
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Old 02-02-2004, 10:09 AM   #6463
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lonestar
Howdy folks,

Jeff: miscellaneous things to check (I'm sure you've done them already, but you never know...):
- rim spokes could be hitting C-hub if you use upper hinge hole
- worn-out bones where the CVD pin "bites" in and creates a flat spot (has happened on my car)
- gone-out pin (big classic)

Randman: please share it with us, here on the forum, not by PM. That's the whole goal of having a forum, sharing information. Given the amounts of post you put on this forum on a daily basis, I'm assuming time is not an issue for you and you can spend a few minutes describing the procedure. Else I will just have to send you a PM A good trick to remove slop on the left side is to mount a full servo-saver assembly there, too.

Later yall

Paul
If I describe it, I'll be using a few pics, and just make a webpage of it so it wont get lost. I'll have to tear my car down again to get the parts out for pics, that is why I want to see if it's an issue first.
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Old 02-02-2004, 10:11 AM   #6464
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Quote:
Originally posted by wyd
Wow sounds like a tight fit. Especially with the 9550 servo in as they are narrow.
It definately is, I have a feeling 90% of people will be stacking the reciever on top of the servo. I took a pic, I'll post it in a few.
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Old 02-02-2004, 10:23 AM   #6465
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Here ya go. The ESC signal wire is touching the chassis bracing, the ESC is touching the RX, and the RX is touching the servo. Not 1mm to spare
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