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Old 01-31-2004, 10:21 AM   #6421
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Really interested in the race report from the CGM this weekend! I am running the SSG currently and liked it on pavement last summer. Will be attending the Nats in Portland this summer and am starting to plan for what I am going to run. The CGM looks like a great kit and if it is anything like the tc3 will be great on all surfaces I bet.

Can't wait for thoughts on the car...lol

Jeff
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Old 01-31-2004, 12:34 PM   #6422
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I'm also going to the Nats in Portland, probably to run Stock or 19T. I think the big question is what chassis to run. Supposedly the CGM will be used for the 2004 Worlds, and so should (hopefully ) work well outdoors. At the Region 11 race I ran the SSG and it worked well, so who knows? What I'm most looking forward to from the CGM is no more of tweak problems! At the Region 11 race, literally every run I had to de-tweak the car. There was plenty of time to do so, but it's still a hassle. I sure hope they decide to use a spec tire for the Nats.

Does anyone know if the parts in the CGM conversion will be sold separately (example: just the tub, or just the steering) to purchase as spares?
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Old 01-31-2004, 02:30 PM   #6423
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Default Corally/RC Lab

Quote:
Originally posted by Lonestar
folks, where do you actually buy RCLab parts?

Thanks
Paul


http://www.rclab.co.uk

http://www.modeltech.co.uk

Hope this helps

Last edited by Horatio; 01-31-2004 at 02:42 PM.
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Old 01-31-2004, 02:32 PM   #6424
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Default Re: Re: Blades for Yok!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by danjoy25
Please send me pics when youre done with this, I am interested to see what it is.

Regards,
I'll do my best, but my photography is even worse than my racing etiquette
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Old 01-31-2004, 02:36 PM   #6425
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Quote:
Originally posted by 2Tenths

Does anyone know if the parts in the CGM conversion will be sold separately (example: just the tub, or just the steering) to purchase as spares?
I can't see why they wouldn't offer everything seperately, you might have to wait a couple weeks for all the parts to be available though
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Old 01-31-2004, 02:45 PM   #6426
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull
Horatio. Greetings from Malta.

You ask about where I get my Corally bits from.

If you look in the Corally website you will see:

Importers for UK. Model Tech. That's Mike Smith.

Importers for Malta. John Bull. That's me.

I know Mike. Very knowledgeable. But I buy direct from the factory. However, when we race in UK Mike always offers to help us with any Corally stuff we may not have with us.

Both my son and I run Corally motors and cells exclusively in our cars.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
My apologies - I had no idea you were a distributor for Corally.
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Old 01-31-2004, 08:32 PM   #6427
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I just got an SD and have ran it for a few packs. Mine is pretty much bonestock, and I noticed that the main shaft is not running straight at all. Was there ever an issue with the original main shaft not running true? Will changing to the Aluminum Suzuki drives solve this?
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Old 01-31-2004, 09:07 PM   #6428
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Quote:
Originally posted by eeyan
I just got an SD and have ran it for a few packs. Mine is pretty much bonestock, and I noticed that the main shaft is not running straight at all. Was there ever an issue with the original main shaft not running true? Will changing to the Aluminum Suzuki drives solve this?
wow, this is the first I've heard of someone having a bent main shaft. The suzuki drive cups won't stop you from bending a shaft, maybe your stock ones aren't seated properly?
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Old 01-31-2004, 11:44 PM   #6429
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I'm sure the shaft aren't bent; and the cups are seated right. I actually tried rebuilding and moving things around and it still wobbles about 1mm when you look at it top view. I also changed the input shafts with the Tobee ones and it still does not look right when it rotates. Although I don't think the wobbling will affect handling in stock... I'm just curious if other SD owners are experiencing this?!? This is my first car with a 3 piece shaft... my EvoIII looks straight from the start probably because it uses a 1 pc shaft design.
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Old 02-01-2004, 01:25 AM   #6430
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Got my CGM today, but didn't have time to build it, there are a few things that I'm going to "fix" on my mill before I run it. The parts fit is definately great, everything basically snaps together it seems like, then the screws just keep it in place.

If any CGM owners have a problem with their steering linkage binding, send me a PM, it did it on 3 of the 4 CGM's at the track today, and I found the fix for the problem, did it successfully on 2 cars.
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Old 02-01-2004, 01:30 AM   #6431
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Quote:
Originally posted by eeyan
I'm sure the shaft aren't bent; and the cups are seated right. I actually tried rebuilding and moving things around and it still wobbles about 1mm when you look at it top view. I also changed the input shafts with the Tobee ones and it still does not look right when it rotates. Although I don't think the wobbling will affect handling in stock... I'm just curious if other SD owners are experiencing this?!? This is my first car with a 3 piece shaft... my EvoIII looks straight from the start probably because it uses a 1 pc shaft design.
Sounds very weird... Are you using the O-rings in the cups?

Paul
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Old 02-01-2004, 03:42 AM   #6432
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Quote:
Originally posted by eeyan
I'm sure the shaft aren't bent; and the cups are seated right. I actually tried rebuilding and moving things around and it still wobbles about 1mm when you look at it top view. I also changed the input shafts with the Tobee ones and it still does not look right when it rotates. Although I don't think the wobbling will affect handling in stock... I'm just curious if other SD owners are experiencing this?!? This is my first car with a 3 piece shaft... my EvoIII looks straight from the start probably because it uses a 1 pc shaft design.
I've had a wobbly shaft from time to time.

I'm not 100% sure what the cause is.

One possible problem is chassis tweak - if there's a bend in the chassis, the shaft wobble looks worse. So I would check that the chassis is dead straight.

I also think I may have a slightly off moulding in one of my joint cups.
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Old 02-01-2004, 06:33 AM   #6433
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lonestar
Sounds very weird... Are you using the O-rings in the cups?
Yeah, the O-rings are all there... I'll be racing today and see if the car just needs more break in. But I really doubt it if the wobble will affect the handling. Hopefully not...
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Old 02-01-2004, 10:39 AM   #6434
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Quote:
Originally posted by eeyan
Yeah, the O-rings are all there... I'll be racing today and see if the car just needs more break in. But I really doubt it if the wobble will affect the handling. Hopefully not...
We had a little wobble caused by running o'rings in both cups. I removed the rear O'ring and no wobble. We also stopped breaking rear cups, because the shaft was now deeper into the rear cup.
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Old 02-01-2004, 11:08 AM   #6435
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Hi Guys,

Just a note on the CGM car kits, it is full graphite components (suspension and chassis). While the conversion kit is graphite on the conversion components (chassis, braces, shock towers).

Steve Wang
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