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Old 01-28-2004, 10:32 PM   #6331
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If it is heavier, that would s***, if it is would just stick with my Black Special.
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Old 01-28-2004, 10:36 PM   #6332
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Why is the weight thing such an issue, I dont see how you guys can be at legal weight with the regular SD. I'm running a fairly heavy SD, and it's still about 150 grams under weight with the body on.
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Old 01-28-2004, 11:46 PM   #6333
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because some places like here in vancouver the race organizers don't give a damn about regulations and rules
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Old 01-29-2004, 12:35 AM   #6334
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
You running the RS car?
Yup.
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Old 01-29-2004, 12:37 AM   #6335
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
Why is the weight thing such an issue, I dont see how you guys can be at legal weight with the regular SD. I'm running a fairly heavy SD, and it's still about 150 grams under weight with the body on.
I like a light car with a low Center Of Gravity.
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Old 01-29-2004, 03:03 AM   #6336
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Same here... all that hype about the CGM car, I don't get it. Unless most of us are car-setup wiz's, which I'm personnally not, a car with more flex makes the average driver's life easier on less than sticky tracks. Of course, for foams on carpet, which we don't run much here in europe, stiffer is the way to go.

However, the advantage I see with tub chassis are better accessibility, and (theoretically) lower tweak sensitivity (and still: see TC3)

Will personnally stick to the stock SSD for now.

Another Q: ballcups. Yokomo ballcups are crap, IMHO. On other drivers' advice, I switched to Tamiya's ballcups and aluminium balljoints... Quality is much better, obviously, plus the increase in diameter (4.8mm) helps reduce slop impact. The problem is, the way the cup is built, it's impossible to reach some lower-camber intake positions for the upper links, because the whole link is now too long. I can buy some shorter links, but Ti links are not that cheap, plus it PO'es me to dump more cash in this issue.

What brand of ball cups are you guys using? For those of You using RPM's, can you screw them in as far as the yokesm in order to still be able to use "short" links?

Thanks,
Later,
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Old 01-29-2004, 03:14 AM   #6337
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The RPM cups won't screw down as far as the Yokomo ones, it's ok for kit geometry links, but anything shorter would be a bit of an issue. You could cut them down a bit in length but I think the RPM's have more material around the ball so you could never get them as short as the Yoke's.
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Old 01-29-2004, 04:12 AM   #6338
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Has anyone here tried Schumacher ball gripper ball cups on their Yoks?

I've used them in the past on TC3s and didn't have any problems. They're strong, cheap and plentiful!
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Old 01-29-2004, 04:47 AM   #6339
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Quote:
Originally posted by 2Tenths
Alch: Thanks for the clarification (I just hope the US version is the same!). I can't wait to hear about how the car handles. Have you weighed the car yet, fully assembled? Is it really heavier than the original SD?
Haven't weighed the car yet, have no scales at the moment, forgot to pick some up from my lhs today.. If i get to the track tomorrow i will weigh before i do some modifications.
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Old 01-29-2004, 06:17 AM   #6340
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Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

The Schumacher Ball Grippa is the best gripping ball joint i have found yet. It is also cheap and available everywhere.

When I have the choice I prefer to use Rose joints. In fact if you look in the pics i posted recently of both my SD and my son's TC3, you will see that rose joints are used almost universally on both.

I have found the Associated shock end joint to be best. It has a plastic ball. When it starts to wear you simply screw the retaining nut up a bit more and all your play is gone.

Just one problem. They come in packs of 2 and are very expensive to do a whole car.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 01-29-2004, 07:35 AM   #6341
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Yeah, you're right - I think rose joints are the best engineering solution. It's just the convenience factor of being able to 'pop' those ball joints on or off that I'd miss, as opposed to actually having to unscrew links to get them off. I guess I'm just lazy

RC Heli's use ONLY rose jointed control links - so I guess that says it all.
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Old 01-29-2004, 08:15 AM   #6342
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Lonestar - I use RPM cups on my car, with the original Yokomo steel ball studs. I'm not sure I understand your question, but as to fit, I use the RPM cups only where there is room. I've also tried Associated cups, but the RPMs are a much tighter fit. They're actually tough to snap on to the car. One other thing: I had to cut a little material off of the ends of the cups where the turnbuckle threads in, basically just shortening them. This helps getting the shorter lengths of turnbuckles needed on the car, as the shorter cup is easier to thread on.

I've also tried using Yokomo aluminum ball studs, but they snap very easily.
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Old 01-29-2004, 08:21 AM   #6343
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Thanks for the info, folks.

2thenths: I actually mean that on tamiya ballcups, you can't screw the rod in as far as in Yokomo's... even if you cut some plastic off, you can't reach anything else than the outer hole on the axle carrier and the inner hole on the camber link tower, which basically prevents camber intake. I have some RPM ballcups at home, I'll give them a shot.

Joe, Horation, what are "rose" joints?

Thanks,
Paul
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Old 01-29-2004, 09:09 AM   #6344
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Lonestar:

Rose joints - instead of a ball cup, you have a metal or plastic balls that are held captive in a plastic collar on the ends of your turnbuckle. The ball has a hole in it, and this is screwed/bolted down. The advantage is that they don't fall off while you're racing unless/until you actually break something.

You have to unscrew them.

Ball joints pop off - but in some cases this may actually be a good thing as it could save the car from damage. Especially with the old c carriers etc.
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Old 01-29-2004, 09:29 AM   #6345
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Wolfe Motorsports makes a beautiful aluminum spool, but I havn't found a way to keep from chewing them up with the steel dogbone.

The mip cvd's made for the mr4tc will work as they come, however, the front ones are longer than the stock sd units. They work great except you have to take the outdrive rings off, and the diff will no longer come out of the trans. case as easy. You have to take a hub carrier off one side. Tir is showing they now make their Ti cvd for the SD! I want a set, but who knows when they will actually be available. Everyone state side call schumacher usa and bug them to death to bring them in.

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