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Old 01-27-2004, 04:40 PM   #6271
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It's got nothing to do with my SD, I want longer ones for some other car.

I still run the kit's steel dogbones on the front of my SD. Yes the ones I've had with the car, and they're still pretty good. I'm not planning on changing them until, let's say 4 months...

About the Tobee : they're ok on the rear but they wear very very fast on the front, same for the yokes RTB, which last longer though. Never broke any dogbone, being Tobee or Yoke (not even Tamiya).
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Old 01-27-2004, 04:42 PM   #6272
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cobra81li200
It's got nothing to do with my SD, I want longer ones for some other car.

I still run the kit's steel dogbones on the front of my SD. Yes the ones I've had with the car, and they're still pretty good. I'm not planning on changing them until, let's say 4 months...

About the Tobee : they're ok on the rear but they wear very very fast on the front, same for the yokes RTB, which last longer though. Never broke any dogbone, being Tobee or Yoke (not even Tamiya).
the one made for the MR4TC front is longer by 2-3mm...
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Old 01-27-2004, 04:44 PM   #6273
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I use the hardened universals from the MR4TC, all the way around on my car. You have to grind the ball down to almost flush with the drive pins on the front universals but the rears require no mods. These last way longer than anything else. There part numbers are ZS-010FH (Front) and ZS-010RH (Rear).
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Old 01-27-2004, 05:01 PM   #6274
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Quote:
Originally posted by wyd
Well I was just offering you my repair services. That would free you up some.
Might take you up on it sometime, but it would take 5 times longer to drive to the PO and ship the thing then drive back as it would to fix it, lol.
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Old 01-27-2004, 05:03 PM   #6275
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Default Re: front bones...

Quote:
Originally posted by Lonestar
All right, let's start it all over again... What's the best bones to run with a one-way (metal outdrives):

- Square Ti Bones: Expensive, wear out fast. big flat spot after, say, 50 packs...
- Tobee Aluminum bones: good stuff, if you're masami and never hit boards... else... SNAP !
-Stock steel bones: I put them on yesterday... 8 packs... big flat spot today. Less expensive than Ti, though.

So what the heck should we run? Cobra, are you looking into using R2's bones into the SD?




Paul
Stock steel bones work fine for me.
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Old 01-27-2004, 06:26 PM   #6276
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Default Re: front bones...

Quote:
Originally posted by Lonestar
All right, let's start it all over again... What's the best bones to run with a one-way (metal outdrives):

- Square Ti Bones: Expensive, wear out fast. big flat spot after, say, 50 packs...
- Tobee Aluminum bones: good stuff, if you're masami and never hit boards... else... SNAP !
-Stock steel bones: I put them on yesterday... 8 packs... big flat spot today. Less expensive than Ti, though.

So what the heck should we run? Cobra, are you looking into using R2's bones into the SD?




Paul
I will let you know tomorrow for sure if the MIP cvds fit. I am building another SD at the moment and I have both the alu and shiny fronts for the old Mr4tc. (thx again rc-z). I will post pix later.
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Old 01-27-2004, 07:47 PM   #6277
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...619#post692619
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Old 01-27-2004, 09:49 PM   #6278
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Default Re: Re: front bones...

Quote:
Originally posted by forty6
I will let you know tomorrow for sure if the MIP cvds fit. I am building another SD at the moment and I have both the alu and shiny fronts for the old Mr4tc. (thx again rc-z). I will post pix later.
I posted pics of the MIPs in the earlier pages after the SD was released... I'll see if I can find them again...
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Old 01-27-2004, 10:02 PM   #6279
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Default Re: Re: Re: front bones...

Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
I posted pics of the MIPs in the earlier pages after the SD was released... I'll see if I can find them again...
Good luck on that search... you'll need it!
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Old 01-28-2004, 12:57 AM   #6280
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Some more CGM pics.. Just the ESC to sort out now!!
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Old 01-28-2004, 01:01 AM   #6281
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Another view, sorry pic is a little blurry, wasn't enough light and i didn't want to use the flash (Makes it all too shiny, like previous pic)
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Old 01-28-2004, 01:02 AM   #6282
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Motor mount... Very cool, i like it!!
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Old 01-28-2004, 01:05 AM   #6283
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NightKidZ: I am unable to weigh the car at the moment.. Asimo doesn't have his scales here, so i will be picking some up tomorrow.. will post when i can...
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Old 01-28-2004, 01:36 AM   #6284
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Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

Took my SD apart yesterday to do the bearings, diffs etc. First time in about 6 months.

PAUL - LONESTAR.

I use either MR4TC rear alloy dogbones all round on the SD, or Tobee alloy dogbones. They all wear quite a bit, especially up front with hot mod motors, and a spool. The only problems I have had with the Tobee ones are if the car lifts off a banking and lands heavily on power. Then they snap immediately. But then so do the Yoke alloy ones under those sort of conditions.

I have used Titanium ones in the past but the wear rate on them is even worse.

Thanks everyone for info about diff lubrication.

Does anybody know where I can get an alloy spool - like the one IRS make for the TC3? I made my own which is OK but I want the real thing to sell.

STEVE.

Can you PM me the dealer price for 3 CGM kits. I'm preparing an order for Yoke parts. You may be able to help with this too.

Thanks and regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 01-28-2004, 02:40 AM   #6285
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Quote:
Originally posted by alch
Motor mount... Very cool, i like it!!
very nice TC3 motor mount... man those yokomo engineers *really* did a lot of R&D to design the CGM

About dogbones: Thanks all for the feedback (and mo for the part numbers!)... For yall running the stock steel bones, you say they don't wear out that much, but are you running the yokomo one-way? I'm just stunned that after only 8 packs they look so bad already (flat spot) on my car. I bought my one-way kind of early. MAybe did Yokomo release a new one with new outdrives in a different material?

Thanks,
Paul
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