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Old 01-21-2004, 09:24 AM   #6091
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Originally posted by Aku-Man
Product D released the 2.5 gear ratio for $40. Is it worth?
You can buy a new spur gear for 4 bucks, and pinions for 5 each. No... it's not worth it.
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Old 01-21-2004, 09:26 AM   #6092
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Johnbull:

just out of interest, was it your cars I saw featured in Radio Race Car International magazine a few years back? I remember an article about a Maltese racer who built 2 touring cars - one 'scale' 190mm and one 'wide' 200mm made out of carbon fibre from a 1:1 fullsize race car front wing end-plate!

Were they your cars? Or do you know the racer I mean?

Just a thought..........
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Old 01-21-2004, 09:26 AM   #6093
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Randman: YGPM
Back at ya
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Old 01-21-2004, 10:48 AM   #6094
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Originally posted by Horatio
Johnbull:

just out of interest, was it your cars I saw featured in Radio Race Car International magazine a few years back? I remember an article about a Maltese racer who built 2 touring cars - one 'scale' 190mm and one 'wide' 200mm made out of carbon fibre from a 1:1 fullsize race car front wing end-plate!

Were they your cars? Or do you know the racer I mean?

Just a thought..........
Yes indeed Horatio, they were my cars.

That's going back a few years. the reason for the front wing end plate - Ralt F3 I think - was because of the scarcity of carbon fibre sheet.

I now buy all my CF sheet from Fibre Lyte in UK. Makes life alot easier. I have just made a 3.8mm chassis for my SD. With rayspeed steering geometry, graphite diff cases etc it makes the SD an even more brilliant car than it is.

I loaned my stock SSG SD to a friend last weekend and he won the super stock class with it, never having driven it before. He hasn't done much winning since he sold his TC3 two years ago. He was in the market for a new car and I thought that win would convince him towards an SD, but he has decided on another car.

Another friend has just bought an SD. He has raced an X Ray Evo 2 before but reckons the SD out of the box is already better than the X Ray was after months of setting up. I have now helped him a bit with his SD and he has decided to race it this coming Sunday.

I really must get some pics of my recent mods.

regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 01-21-2004, 11:19 AM   #6095
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Yea John get work and get us some pics.

I would like to see that 3.8mm thick chassis. I bet that would really help on carpet racing.
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Old 01-21-2004, 11:30 AM   #6096
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That was kind of my point about wondering which car I should go for simply because I have never driven a touring car. I know I'm more likely to wreck than most (in the beginning) because of the earlier saying. No where have I seen the SD rated as a "beginner car" everything I have seen has said "for experienced racers" Whatever I decide, I know I will be happy and accept my lack of on road experience will cost me some parts. Now it's more about adjustability, ease of adjustment/maintaining, and for now, more durability will also factor.
That is where the tweak issue can be a little daunting and frustrating for a beginner. As my knowledge grows so will the ability to tune these things right. One of the things I do like is the chassis choices. And that is another reason I look to the SD.
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Old 01-21-2004, 11:46 AM   #6097
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Originally posted by wyd
Yea John get work and get us some pics.

I would like to see that 3.8mm thick chassis. I bet that would really help on carpet racing.
I second that, I wanna check that car out.
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Old 01-21-2004, 11:58 AM   #6098
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hmmm, what width do you run on foamtires with Rayspeed Shocktowers?
Coz my Jaco NitroShoes 30mm is touching the rear shocktowers really badly. The only thing i can think of is running 26 mm all around..
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Old 01-21-2004, 12:03 PM   #6099
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3.8mm chassis .....that's apporaching nitro chassis's spec


wcoyote~ pretty much all touring cars out there have the same adjustablilities just remember to go easy on the throttle when driving around a track built by blocks of wood or other tall heavy object, then the car will not break as much
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Old 01-21-2004, 12:25 PM   #6100
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Quote:
Originally posted by wcoyote
That was kind of my point about wondering which car I should go for simply because I have never driven a touring car. I know I'm more likely to wreck than most (in the beginning) because of the earlier saying. No where have I seen the SD rated as a "beginner car" everything I have seen has said "for experienced racers" Whatever I decide, I know I will be happy and accept my lack of on road experience will cost me some parts. Now it's more about adjustability, ease of adjustment/maintaining, and for now, more durability will also factor.
That is where the tweak issue can be a little daunting and frustrating for a beginner. As my knowledge grows so will the ability to tune these things right. One of the things I do like is the chassis choices. And that is another reason I look to the SD.
I was in the market for my first EP a month ago, and finally got a used T1EVO2 with composite chasis, front 1way, 4 alu shocks, 1.77 IR, all titanium screws, all for 130USD! hehehhee
Used car is the way to go if you're new, especially if you're new to EP because parts are soo cheap that you can buy spare/hop ups if there is something wrong with the car.
Also, I decided on the xray because of LHS support
I've also been told that its a good beginner's car as the parts are "relatively" tough, yet the car (design/geometry) is good enough to win international races..
In a few months time, I might look into buying a new car, as my driving improves, probably shaft as I want to try the difference.
Then, I'll consider a Yok or HPI Pro4.....
Bottom line, don't worry about what is better, worry about LHS support, and get something cheap or used (there are plenty in Hong Kong)..... get as much track time as possible... then think about a new car later...
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Old 01-21-2004, 12:29 PM   #6101
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in HK, even new cars don't cost too much compare to north america
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Old 01-21-2004, 01:06 PM   #6102
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Quote:
Originally posted by wcoyote
No where have I seen the SD rated as a "beginner car" everything I have seen has said "for experienced racers" Whatever I decide, I know I will be happy and accept my lack of on road experience will cost me some parts. Now it's more about adjustability, ease of adjustment/maintaining, and for now, more durability will also factor.
That is where the tweak issue can be a little daunting and frustrating for a beginner. As my knowledge grows so will the ability to tune these things right. One of the things I do like is the chassis choices. And that is another reason I look to the SD.
It sounds as though you've had some off road experience, right?

If you have, take solice from the fact that it's generally easier to convert (and do very well) from an off-road background to on-road than it is the other way around. I'm still not sure why this is!

I'll be honest and say that Touring Cars are generally far less troublesome than, say, a 4wd 1/10th buggy. Sure you have to maintain any car if you want it to perform, but Touring Cars are far less hassle generally.

Racing wise, touring cars are awesome - the cars race so close! You'll not be dissappointed no matter what you choose - and that's the truth!!

Keep us posted ;o)
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Old 01-21-2004, 01:25 PM   #6103
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Johnbull:

It's an honour to meet you, well, speak to you at any rate in RC Tech!

I remember looking at the weave of the Carbon on those cars you built and thinking how different it looked to anything else I'd seen on a model car - sort of coarser somehow. I imagine that stuff you used then was mighty stiff

How did you get to 'cannabalise' a Ralt F 3 car? That's an awful lot of chassis conversions potentially
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Old 01-21-2004, 01:29 PM   #6104
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fire
in HK, even new cars don't cost too much compare to north america

We can make a deal, I can get stuff for you in HK and you let me stay over if you're anywhere near Whistler...
I prefer snowboarding over RC ANYDAY!
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Old 01-21-2004, 02:10 PM   #6105
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The latest word from Yokomo USA is that Japan is supposed to be shipping them at the end of this week or first of next week. They should be in the US around the first of the month.
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