R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-18-2003, 08:51 AM   #5431
Tech Fanatic
 
Tommy Bergfeldt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Sweden
Posts: 979
Send a message via ICQ to Tommy Bergfeldt
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Horatio
More like they're all seized/broke
*Pretends like i din'nt hear that*

The ugly and heavy orig. axles is now swapped for YMP Green Ti. or Alu or whatever.. They're LIGHT, that's the important thing
Tommy Bergfeldt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2003, 08:53 AM   #5432
Tech Elite
 
Horatio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,056
Default

rraden:

Comiserations - you're not alone!!

If you get the driveshafts, take them apart and then using a small sanding drum on a Dremmel, machine out the insides of the holes where the 'barrels' locate inside the CVD dogbones. Be sure to polish them afterwards. They should then should be a 'clearance fit' (NOT a loose, wobbly, fit!), but many shafts I've seen have a black coating around them that creates an 'interferance fit' which consequently builds up enough heat during racing conditions that friction welding occurs!! Thus, to remove the offending part an allan driver tapped with a small hammer is sometimes the only way to do get them apart - just as you've experienced.

Once the driveshafts run properly, it should help the fragile plastic stuff stay together long enough til the graphite components arrive in the post
Horatio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2003, 08:58 AM   #5433
Tech Elite
 
Horatio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,056
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally posted by Sparx
*Pretends like i din'nt hear that*

The ugly and heavy orig. axles is now swapped for YMP Green Ti. or Alu or whatever.. They're LIGHT, that's the important thing
Nice! Lighter & prettier - why oh why did I bother fixing my standard driveshafts

Alloy driveshafts are now next on my wishlist
Horatio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2003, 09:05 AM   #5434
Tech Elite
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,364
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

edit, sorry double post
__________________
When the flag drops, the BS stops.

The train stops at the train station. The bus stops at the bus station. In my office I have a workstation.

Last edited by Lonestar; 12-18-2003 at 09:11 AM.
Lonestar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2003, 09:08 AM   #5435
Tech Elite
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,364
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

I mean, you guys must be doing something wrong...

chaini, did it happen during the Geneva cup? Have we met, btw? there's a pic of my car further down below....

I mean, guys, I do hit too, but still... However I admit I run square Ti front bones and suzuki knuckles... but, damn, I can't believe one can break so much in one meeting...

Paul
__________________
When the flag drops, the BS stops.

The train stops at the train station. The bus stops at the bus station. In my office I have a workstation.
Lonestar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2003, 09:18 AM   #5436
Tech Elite
 
sosidge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bristol, UK
Posts: 3,865
Default

My total breakages from 7/8 months of SD ownership...

1 C-hub
2 Uprights

All breakages from crashing hard.

I've had two CVD's come loose (not seize). They can be a less than perfect fit out of the box, but a little round file cleans off the flash quickly.

Granted, this is on a track that is not hard on cars, but I have had my share of BIG crashes that could easily break a car (head ons down straight, car pitched airborne down straight, car rammed into walls, car hitting child running across straight).

I clip corners and rub doorhandles all the time.

I had one of the first batch of SD's into the UK, and the parts have held up. It's totally standard apart from the shock towers.
sosidge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2003, 09:27 AM   #5437
Tech Fanatic
 
Tommy Bergfeldt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Sweden
Posts: 979
Send a message via ICQ to Tommy Bergfeldt
Default

My positions on the breakingfront:
1 A-Arm in the rear after my first corner-marker-hit and a massive roll..
That's after one race, maybe some more breakages after the next weekend..
Tommy Bergfeldt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2003, 09:52 AM   #5438
Tech Elite
 
vtl1180ny's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Wrong Island
Posts: 4,963
Default

I'm in the process of modifying an RMP NTC3 bumper to fit... I had an origional NTC3 one, but it sucked... Since switching to the aluminum knuckle I haven't broken a C hub... I did notice that with the stock hubs the king pins loosen up which s what I think is causing the C hubs to crack...
vtl1180ny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2003, 11:11 AM   #5439
Tech Fanatic
 
kentech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 868
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Arrow CGM Release Date

Looks like the release date for the CGM kit and conversion has been pushed to beginning/middle of January. Info from Japan.
__________________
kentech.wordpress.com
kentech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2003, 11:47 AM   #5440
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Hi-LowBrow
put some GreenSlime on RS-O rings, it works !!
Did that completely stop the excess oil coming out the bottom?
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2003, 11:58 AM   #5441
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Horatio
Big crashes and no breakages? Perhaps there are just bad batches of arms etc so certain areas are plauged with durability issues whilst others enjoy trouble free 'motoring'.

Regarding the 'stronger arms', this would certainly explain why Yokomo took their time releasing them!! Maybe they had lots of dodgey arms to inflict on the UK racers first
My first SD was a POS, breaking machine. The new car seems to be bulletproof, I havent crashed it yet, but I have been hacked a few times in practice, and nothing has broken. My guess would be that they did update the parts, made them a bit stronger.
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2003, 12:00 PM   #5442
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Sparx
Finally got pic of my SD
Lookin good
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2003, 12:04 PM   #5443
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Hi-LowBrow
according to YMP(Masami's dad),

Team Yokomo intends to run with CGM chassis for races after it's available.

then, I wonder how the SSG, Black, Rayspeed chassis are going ??
Well the CGM should be the chassis made to reduce the tweaking issue some people are having. No upper deck, means that there is nothing to shift, so the chassis can have flex, without worrying about staying tweaked, which will be good for asphault. And the upper deck option should make the chassis so stiff that there is no flex, which will work great on carpet.
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2003, 12:05 PM   #5444
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default Re: CGM Release Date

Quote:
Originally posted by kentech
Looks like the release date for the CGM kit and conversion has been pushed to beginning/middle of January. Info from Japan.
Ouch, that definately sucks. I was hoping to be able to have that chassis by early Jan, planning on running the Stockton race.

BTW, was it just me, or was RCTech offline almost all yesterday?
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2003, 12:35 PM   #5445
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: MD
Posts: 1,499
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default SD Black

I received an SD Black for my birthday (September), although, I knew that I wouldn't be able to race it until Spring/Summer '04, so it's still in the box. I'm currently racing 1/12th indoors.


So what's the general consensus on the SD (black) when racing outdoors, stock and 19turn?

Is it competitive right out of the box, or will upgrades/hop-ups be necessary?

I've been reading all the discussion about the Rayspeed Chassis, Associated springs, TC3 Shaft, Toobe upgrades, and the new Yokomo Tub Chassis and it almost sounds like the SD kit Yokomo produced needs serious help.

Last, any suggested setups for medium grip asphalt?
Geppetto is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
yokomo or yokomo parts yokomo7 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 4 12-19-2009 08:45 PM
Yokomo is coming out with a new version of the bd : Yokomo BD 2 roadrashracing Electric On-Road 12 12-19-2007 07:08 AM
yokomo Aluminum Steering Bellcrank Posts and other yokomo spares hurley081182 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 2 02-27-2006 06:07 PM
Lots FS: CRC 3.2 & Yokomo YRX-12, Yokomo TC Tires, JR Receivers, New Motors, more TurboFC3S R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 15 09-22-2005 09:38 PM
WTB Yokomo 1/12 Mini...Trade for 1/10 Yokomo dynamic_e R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 07-12-2003 05:58 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:39 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net