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Old 12-16-2003, 11:27 PM   #5386
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BTW, I guess it would be a good thing to ask, but do the Yokomo springs fit on a Tamiya shock?
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Old 12-16-2003, 11:49 PM   #5387
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
BTW, I dont know if anyone else has this problem, but my Yok shocks with RS O-Rings bleed pretty badly... I bought some TRF Flourine shocks that I'll adapt to the SD, but I'm wondering if anyone else has had the problem?
When the car first came out people were having this problem and I think it was traced back to too much oil in the shock. Since they are a bladder type shock people were filling the body up all the way and then putting the bladder/cap on without seeing if the shock was too pressurized causing oil to leak out the bottom O ring. I'm not saying this is for sure your problem but I can go a month or longer on my shocks and not have to refill them or even bother with them.
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Old 12-16-2003, 11:51 PM   #5388
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
BTW, I dont know if anyone else has this problem, but my Yok shocks with RS O-Rings bleed pretty badly... I bought some TRF Flourine shocks that I'll adapt to the SD, but I'm wondering if anyone else has had the problem?
Why don't you just put the Yokomo O-ring again, I've never changed them since I have ther car.
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Old 12-16-2003, 11:53 PM   #5389
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
When the car first came out people were having this problem and I think it was traced back to too much oil in the shock. Since they are a bladder type shock people were filling the body up all the way and then putting the bladder/cap on without seeing if the shock was too pressurized causing oil to leak out the bottom O ring. I'm not saying this is for sure your problem but I can go a month or longer on my shocks and not have to refill them or even bother with them.
That could possibly be my problem, but I do try to make sure they arent overfilled, but at the same time, I'm not used to bladder type shocks...

I'll try a rebuild with a little less oil and see if it helps, but I know I'll be happy with the Tamiya shocks, loved them on my Evo 3.
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Old 12-16-2003, 11:54 PM   #5390
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Quote:
Originally posted by utieh
Why don't you just put the Yokomo O-ring again, I've never changed them since I have ther car.
The RS O-rings are a hair softer, and should allow the shaft to glide a little more free, but in this case, it may be part of the problem.
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Old 12-17-2003, 01:45 AM   #5391
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
BTW, I dont know if anyone else has this problem, but my Yok shocks with RS O-Rings bleed pretty badly... I bought some TRF Flourine shocks that I'll adapt to the SD, but I'm wondering if anyone else has had the problem?

put some GreenSlime on RS-O rings, it works !!
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Old 12-17-2003, 02:47 AM   #5392
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Originally posted by Cobra81li200

My feeling is that the graphite material is less prone to breakages at low temperatures than the stock one, which I found to be shit under a temperature of 15C.
Great - this is the kind of re-assurance we all need to hear. It's a start!!

Randman:

I'm afraid I beg to differ with you my friend - we're not talking about crashing breaking/retiring the SD from races - but mere 'clipping' of track edges or curbs which are removing entire wishbones, steering arms, hubs etc here in the UK. And this isn't in the hands of inexperienced club drivers either - we're talking sponsored, BRCA National winning drivers having genuine problems with crap materials on a 250 car. This isn't acceptable and the problem needs to be solved, NOT dodged or labelled with 'learn to drive'. These guys CAN drive. The point is that club drivers with Xrays, Missions and TC3's are beating pro guys with SD's because the SD keeps breaking.

I think that racing the Yok SD indoors is harder on the car than racing it on a larger out-door circuit with run-off areas etc. Racing indoors you'd expect temperature not to be an issue - but you'd be surprised just how cold it can be when racing in a leisure centre or gymnasium etc over here during the winter.

Like what happend with the TC3, revised parts need to be produced for the Yok SD, PRONTO, before people get another ride.
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Old 12-17-2003, 03:05 AM   #5393
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Quote:
Originally posted by Horatio
Great - this is the kind of re-assurance we all need to hear. It's a start!!

Randman:

I'm afraid I beg to differ with you my friend - we're not talking about crashing breaking/retiring the SD from races - but mere 'clipping' of track edges or curbs which are removing entire wishbones, steering arms, hubs etc here in the UK. And this isn't in the hands of inexperienced club drivers either - we're talking sponsored, BRCA National winning drivers having genuine problems with crap materials on a 250 car. This isn't acceptable and the problem needs to be solved, NOT dodged or labelled with 'learn to drive'. These guys CAN drive. The point is that club drivers with Xrays, Missions and TC3's are beating pro guys with SD's because the SD keeps breaking.

I think that racing the Yok SD indoors is harder on the car than racing it on a larger out-door circuit with run-off areas etc. Racing indoors you'd expect temperature not to be an issue - but you'd be surprised just how cold it can be when racing in a leisure centre or gymnasium etc over here during the winter.

Like what happend with the TC3, revised parts need to be produced for the Yok SD, PRONTO, before people get another ride.
I had an indoor race, with steel boards everywhere and I need to 'learn to drive', had 2 or 3 big crashes, but nothing broke

I think in the case of SD, graphite parts are stronger than the normal ones, it could explain why Yokomo took so much time to release them.
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Old 12-17-2003, 04:57 AM   #5394
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Hello,
I have an new Yok SD and made 3 indoor races, at least 30 sessions 12 x 5 minutes and 18 x 8 minutes, with it. I'm by far not a good driver; in Geneva, we have hard wood "beams" to setup the track and some "plates"; so sometimes, my car is flying high and crashes are hard...
As of now, nothing (and I mean nothing) broken. My car is straight out of the box. The only complain I have on that car is that one king pin attached to the front C-Hub is unscrewing and must be checked after each run.

Maybe it's luck, maybe the material used for the Yok has improved with later kit (I don't know when mine was released, but the box was covered with dust ), don't know. At first and before buying that car, I was afraid with all the report about the fragility of the Yok, but now, I'm very happy with it.
Of course, it can change on 2004, who knows
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Old 12-17-2003, 05:24 AM   #5395
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Randman:
I experienced the same problem with the RS rings.
Since Ive installed them my shocks tend to bleed. They have been perfect with the stock ones. The RS rings seem to be just a tad smaller than the stock-rings. Perhaps itll take some time until they have soak up some oil making the shocks stop bleeding.
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Old 12-17-2003, 07:16 AM   #5396
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Use the Green Slime on your o rings and that will help to stop any leaking you might have. Associated has it. I use it on every shock I build from any company and it has always seemed to work very well. Most of my shocks never leak at all.
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Old 12-17-2003, 08:08 AM   #5397
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Who are you, Coyote? we must have seen each other in Geneva... I couldn't make it last Saturday, but i was there the first two rounds... here's a pic of my car just in case you'd recognize the paint scheme:

Later,
Paul
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Old 12-17-2003, 08:11 AM   #5398
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oops forgot the pic

Later,
Paul
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File Type: jpg resizepict0014.jpg (25.6 KB, 155 views)
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Old 12-17-2003, 08:26 AM   #5399
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Hi Paul,
Yes, we saw each other on your last race (we were in the same final), I'm Gabriel, don't know if you remember
Don't have a picture of my car's body, but I was the only one with an Alfa 2.0 metallic red and metallic blue.
See you
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Old 12-17-2003, 09:47 AM   #5400
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As far as tire grip, temperature has a vast effect on it, even more so with traction additive. As the tire heats up, it enables the additive to work better. Most of the racers I've seen have modified traction by using additive on only the inside half of the tire to loosen up the handling. That setup is basically for drifting. Some use a full amount across the rears and only inside half of the fronts (to reduce drag on the front) for more traction. I imagine how well it works varies with caster/camber adjustments. Just another traction tuning possibility.
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