Yokomo MR-4TC SD
#4756
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Steering set question
Hello guys i got a question about the steering assembly of the MR4TC and SD.
First of all will the steering set (bell crank) of the SD fit the older MR4TC SP ??
Second i found this rayspeed part, its made for the SD part number: RS22. Is this a replacement for the whole steering assembly ??
Finally, what is the part number for the steering assembly set. A hop-up version would be nice if it is available.
I hope you guys can help, just working on a project. Thanks for your time.
-Luie
First of all will the steering set (bell crank) of the SD fit the older MR4TC SP ??
Second i found this rayspeed part, its made for the SD part number: RS22. Is this a replacement for the whole steering assembly ??
Finally, what is the part number for the steering assembly set. A hop-up version would be nice if it is available.
I hope you guys can help, just working on a project. Thanks for your time.
-Luie
#4758
The steering cranks and saver assembly are the same parts as used on the old belt-drive car.
RS22 is a part that turns the system into a psuedo-rack, with a central mount for the steering tie-rod - but it will only fit correctly on the Rayspeed chassis, which mounts the steering cranks in slightly different positions. It's not a complete kit, you need the cranks and saver as well.
I'm not really sure what you mean by a hop-up steering set - you can buy graphite arms, but they are the same geometry as standard, and the standard one's are plenty stiff enough anyway IMHO.
Part numbers you may need - look at the SD parts list on www.yokomousa.com, should be fairly clear what is what.
RS22 is a part that turns the system into a psuedo-rack, with a central mount for the steering tie-rod - but it will only fit correctly on the Rayspeed chassis, which mounts the steering cranks in slightly different positions. It's not a complete kit, you need the cranks and saver as well.
I'm not really sure what you mean by a hop-up steering set - you can buy graphite arms, but they are the same geometry as standard, and the standard one's are plenty stiff enough anyway IMHO.
Part numbers you may need - look at the SD parts list on www.yokomousa.com, should be fairly clear what is what.
#4759
Gearing
Originally posted by KilRuf
Here is it again...... my old setup.....
Here is it again...... my old setup.....
#4760
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Quick post on my results with the SD
Since the start of the summer indoor series and now into the fall season i have yet to break the car during a qualifier or race. I have brokedn only during practice days where things get allittle stupid. I have been running stock rubber on carpet for the duration. Using a setup sheet from "komit" I pretty much ballparked a set-up i like.
I had been running my tc3 as my foam car but recently sold it to get a second SSG to run in 19T foam... What a huge difference i have felt. The balance compared to the tc3 is much better. Instead of a twitchy excited car i have one that feels more planted and easier to drive at speed. I think this convidence is what has kept the car off the walls and me very happy.
Only mods i have on the stock car is:
-custom front wide bumper
-light weight output shafts
-graphite center shaft this week
-deralin center posts
Plans are to seriusly degrease and de-seall bearings on both cars as they really add drag.
Have fun guys
Since the start of the summer indoor series and now into the fall season i have yet to break the car during a qualifier or race. I have brokedn only during practice days where things get allittle stupid. I have been running stock rubber on carpet for the duration. Using a setup sheet from "komit" I pretty much ballparked a set-up i like.
I had been running my tc3 as my foam car but recently sold it to get a second SSG to run in 19T foam... What a huge difference i have felt. The balance compared to the tc3 is much better. Instead of a twitchy excited car i have one that feels more planted and easier to drive at speed. I think this convidence is what has kept the car off the walls and me very happy.
Only mods i have on the stock car is:
-custom front wide bumper
-light weight output shafts
-graphite center shaft this week
-deralin center posts
Plans are to seriusly degrease and de-seall bearings on both cars as they really add drag.
Have fun guys
#4762
Last night I tried my car with the RS Chassis, graphite gear boxes and arms, running 19T foam on carpet. The carpet is high grip, and the chassis just wouldn't work.
The graphite gear boxes are awesome "chiselled from stone," really stiff and a little lighter than the kit ones. Even with these, though, the chassis just flexes too much for foams I think. I started running with just half of the front tire compounded (full rear) with 40 and 35 lbs springs, 70 weight oil, swaybars, and already the car had too much grip. It was very stuck, too stuck, to the track with no off-power steering, no corner speed. I made some setup changes, tried using more front compound to get the steering back, and suddenly the car was traction rolling badly, even though the shocks are super stiff.
I've decided to switch back to running stock motor class with rubber tires, because when I ran rubber in the past, the car was great. I've decided to wait for a different chassis, maybe the tub or something else, before I go back to running foam tires.
Has anyone else had issues with foams? Any tips?
The graphite gear boxes are awesome "chiselled from stone," really stiff and a little lighter than the kit ones. Even with these, though, the chassis just flexes too much for foams I think. I started running with just half of the front tire compounded (full rear) with 40 and 35 lbs springs, 70 weight oil, swaybars, and already the car had too much grip. It was very stuck, too stuck, to the track with no off-power steering, no corner speed. I made some setup changes, tried using more front compound to get the steering back, and suddenly the car was traction rolling badly, even though the shocks are super stiff.
I've decided to switch back to running stock motor class with rubber tires, because when I ran rubber in the past, the car was great. I've decided to wait for a different chassis, maybe the tub or something else, before I go back to running foam tires.
Has anyone else had issues with foams? Any tips?
#4763
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
2Tenths, what pistons, oil and springs are you running? You may have the car too stiff. I am running the rayspeed chassis with the stock plastic parts and it works pretty good. I started with Rayspeed #2 pistons with 70wt front and 60wt rear and also found the car was over stuck. I am now running the rayspeed blank pistons with 3 #56 holes drilled in them with 50wt front and 40wt rear oil with AE Copper springs in front and Rayspeed Grey springs in rear. The car is much better and has not tried to traction roll on me yet. you can see the whole setup on my website. www.mo-net.ws .
#4764
It's probably posted somewhere within the over 4,000 posts here but has anyone changed the front bumper to something that provides a little more protection??? Tired of having steering knuckles break... Oh, ordered a set of aluminum ones anyway...
#4765
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
You can attach the Buds bumper for the TC3 on top of the stock bumber. There are pictures in this thread on yokomousa.com
http://www.yokomousa.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=855
http://www.yokomousa.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=855
#4766
Originally posted by vtl1180ny
It's probably posted somewhere within the over 4,000 posts here but has anyone changed the front bumper to something that provides a little more protection??? Tired of having steering knuckles break... Oh, ordered a set of aluminum ones anyway...
It's probably posted somewhere within the over 4,000 posts here but has anyone changed the front bumper to something that provides a little more protection??? Tired of having steering knuckles break... Oh, ordered a set of aluminum ones anyway...
Mo: Thanks for the info, I think I was running Yok #2 pistons. I thought a softly sprung car could traction roll more easily How does softening the suspension help keep the car planted without rolling over?
#4767
Tech Apprentice
Jimmy Mac;
you're running a SD now? What happened to the Tamiya?
how do you like the Yok? I just put down some cash at debbies to hold one for me until I sell a few of my old offroad cars. this car looks sweet.
A few guys from va beach are going down to goldsboro to race in a week or two, you guys going to be there?
Rob
you're running a SD now? What happened to the Tamiya?
how do you like the Yok? I just put down some cash at debbies to hold one for me until I sell a few of my old offroad cars. this car looks sweet.
A few guys from va beach are going down to goldsboro to race in a week or two, you guys going to be there?
Rob
#4768
For my Brushless setup... When I ran it.. I ran a 6.5 ratio with 112 spur and 40 pinion. At our track you can not go under a 6.5 ratio in Stock Class with the "Spec/Limited" mode. This would give an unfair advantage against the stock motors. Basically the Brushless had the bottem end at the track... but the Monster Stocks had the top end. So it pretty much evened out to a point. But I didn't run it in Stock because I didn't want people getting upset with me if I won all the time with it. So I decided to run a Monster Stock to show them we(the brushed cars) can still win.
Last night I tossed on 2 RS upper decks on my car and it stiffened it up quite a bit. I mainly did that to run Carpet with Foams next weekend. I'm gonna run Stock. I was gonna try and run the RS #4 pistons instead of the RS #2. With maybe AE 60wt front and AE 50wt rear with AE Purple Springs all around. I just don't remember if I actually ordered the #4's from Speedtech the other night..... or if I passed on it? Darn.....
Trick, just run the long shockends all around with the SSS shock bodies for the RS chassis. You don't have to set the rears to 66mm. You can set them to 64mm if you'd like. Just depends how much droop you'd like to run.
Getting everything stuffed onto the lower deck is easy with a Futaba 9550 servo!
Last night I tossed on 2 RS upper decks on my car and it stiffened it up quite a bit. I mainly did that to run Carpet with Foams next weekend. I'm gonna run Stock. I was gonna try and run the RS #4 pistons instead of the RS #2. With maybe AE 60wt front and AE 50wt rear with AE Purple Springs all around. I just don't remember if I actually ordered the #4's from Speedtech the other night..... or if I passed on it? Darn.....
Trick, just run the long shockends all around with the SSS shock bodies for the RS chassis. You don't have to set the rears to 66mm. You can set them to 64mm if you'd like. Just depends how much droop you'd like to run.
Getting everything stuffed onto the lower deck is easy with a Futaba 9550 servo!
#4769
Hey Rob what's up. I sold my 414M2 and Evo3 to my friend. First I sold him my 414M2 and I bought the Evo3 so we both could race a TCS race. Then I got 2 SD's (one brushless, one brushed) and sold my Evo3. Then I traded one of my SD's for a pair of new car tires (real). Hank Now I just concentrate on one car and it's great on asphalt. I'm just worried about it on carpet. Patiently waiting for the tub chassis to come out.
Anyways, the SD is a great car. Very easy to work on and it's a very consistant performer. I run the Ray Speed Chassis. If I were you, I'd get the Black Version as it seems to be stiffer than the SSG.
As for racing at Goldsboro, I live here/there. So I race here every Saturday. Today was our last Asphalt race. I won Stock Class! Right now the carpet is being laid inside. 2/3's is done right now and it'll be finished on Monday. So we are hoping to have the grand opening carpet race this coming Saturday the 29th. Hopefully! So they (and I) will be racing there every Saturday. Racing will more than likely start at 5pm. So show up before then to registor. More info on that later. Classes will more than likely be Spec Touring, Stock Touring, and Stock 1/12th, with some interest in an Oval Class and possibly a Tamiya F201 class (TCS rules.) Mod classes will depend on turnout (if enough show up.)
Anyhow, if you need any help with the car just let me know. I'll be glad to help out.
I'll catch ya sometime! L8Rz
JMac
Anyways, the SD is a great car. Very easy to work on and it's a very consistant performer. I run the Ray Speed Chassis. If I were you, I'd get the Black Version as it seems to be stiffer than the SSG.
As for racing at Goldsboro, I live here/there. So I race here every Saturday. Today was our last Asphalt race. I won Stock Class! Right now the carpet is being laid inside. 2/3's is done right now and it'll be finished on Monday. So we are hoping to have the grand opening carpet race this coming Saturday the 29th. Hopefully! So they (and I) will be racing there every Saturday. Racing will more than likely start at 5pm. So show up before then to registor. More info on that later. Classes will more than likely be Spec Touring, Stock Touring, and Stock 1/12th, with some interest in an Oval Class and possibly a Tamiya F201 class (TCS rules.) Mod classes will depend on turnout (if enough show up.)
Anyhow, if you need any help with the car just let me know. I'll be glad to help out.
I'll catch ya sometime! L8Rz
JMac
#4770
Tech Apprentice
I don't think I'm going to be able to make it out to the race weekend after next(I think that's when everyones going) but maybe I might come down next weekend. It's at the same facilty that once house a indoor off road track, right? what time does racing usually get done and what time does it open for practice?
yeah, I'm buying this car to run on carpet. I'll probably go with an after market chassis anyways so the silver will do if that's all I can get. later rob
yeah, I'm buying this car to run on carpet. I'll probably go with an after market chassis anyways so the silver will do if that's all I can get. later rob