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Old 11-12-2003, 11:12 AM   #4531
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Originally posted by johnbull
Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

Long while since I posted. Still running SDs and loving them.

My mod car now has Rayspeed top plate and towers and a chassis I mad myself from 3mm carbon fibre. It's very similar to the factory SSG one but by rearranging the steering levers I have managed to move the cells further forward and further towards the centre.

I also managed to move the servo further forward again, giving even more space for electrics, fan, etc.

I also have the new alloy suspension arm mounts. The 0 kick up front one makes the car alot better. I use it with 5 degree C hubs.

I encountered the same problems with the graphite centre shaft snapping when run with hot mod motors, so I have gone back to my modified TC3 graphite shaft, and have had no more problems.

I have finally got used to the locked front diff. it's one I glued up myself. Does anyone actually make one like IRS do for the TC3?

The other SD is an almost standard SSG car which I run in stock. Only mods here are graphite centre shaft and servo turned through 90 deg. They are both great fun.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
Hey Joe, I sent you a PM about the TC3 shaft mod, can you please let me know how you got the end pieces loose from the shaft?
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Old 11-12-2003, 11:14 AM   #4532
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Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Drop me a line when you can Randy.. I might have some more info on this for you

-=Dave
YGPM
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Old 11-12-2003, 11:16 AM   #4533
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Originally posted by vtl1180ny
Randman... Ever thought of Nylon or Delrin??? Both are strong as hell but will also flex instead of breaking...

Years ago I did the full RPM nylon conversion to my RC10T and haven't broken a part in 10 years. It's now my son's truck, if a 4 year old can't break it, it's not going to break...
I havent really thought about other materials than aluminum, I know nylon and delrin are going to be hard to break, but they do flex a lot, which wouldn't hold the precision on the caster block like aluminum would. I guess I could pop some out to try though
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Old 11-12-2003, 11:17 AM   #4534
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Randman - Do you have a good setup for mod for the rayspeed conversion. I'm going to start running at Socal again, any help would be greatly appreciated. Also is their a beginning setup for the rayspeed conversion. I've seen the Hadachi setup, but I can't read japanese.
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Old 11-12-2003, 11:22 AM   #4535
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Just run the standard SoCal kit setup, silver swaybars, green front, pink rear springs, and you should be in the ballpark (that's Chris Tosolini's setup)
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Old 11-12-2003, 11:23 AM   #4536
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Randman your Yoke sounds killer. Can you post a pic of it or PM me a pic of your car when you are done or close to done with it. I would like to check yours out. Sounds like this one is one sweet ride you are building. It has all the trick stuff.

Thanks
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Old 11-12-2003, 11:33 AM   #4537
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Default locked diff

lightweight aluminum locked diff for sd availible from Wolfe Motorsports
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Old 11-12-2003, 11:34 AM   #4538
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Originally Posted By Randman
Just run the standard SoCal kit setup, silver swaybars, green front, pink rear springs, and you should be in the ballpark (that's Chris Tosolini's setup)

But does this work with the Rayspeed conversion and what about the rayspeed springs, I have the Yellows, Whites, and Reds.

Keith
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Old 11-12-2003, 11:38 AM   #4539
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Quote:
Originally posted by wyd
Randman your Yoke sounds killer. Can you post a pic of it or PM me a pic of your car when you are done or close to done with it. I would like to check yours out. Sounds like this one is one sweet ride you are building. It has all the trick stuff.

Thanks
Brian
Believe me, pics will be posted in this forum as soon as it's finished. Unfortunately, the holiday held back my stuff from getting to the anodizer, so it's gonna be another week and a half before I get it back

I guess it's alright, I still have to finish polishing all of the titanium to a chrome finish
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Old 11-12-2003, 11:39 AM   #4540
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcfiend
Originally Posted By Randman
Just run the standard SoCal kit setup, silver swaybars, green front, pink rear springs, and you should be in the ballpark (that's Chris Tosolini's setup)

But does this work with the Rayspeed conversion and what about the rayspeed springs, I have the Yellows, Whites, and Reds.

Keith
That will work with the RS car. I dont know the tensions on the RS springs, I really dont see a need to change from the Yok springs...
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Old 11-12-2003, 11:59 AM   #4541
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Thanks Randman. I think I met you at the Toyota\Lexus Cup Race. I'm the person Charlie Barnes worked with to have the race at our Regional office. I believe you were the person I directed to the pit spot we held for Fukiyama batteries.

Keith
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Old 11-12-2003, 12:01 PM   #4542
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aah, Keith, yeah, I definately remember ya, thanks for the directions at Toyota

Let me know if there's anything else I can help you with.
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Old 11-12-2003, 12:56 PM   #4543
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Default Re: Aeration

Quote:
Originally posted by Runin Ronin
What is the benefit of Aeration vs bladder style shocks?

I have the Rayspeed chassis and bought some SS shocks (complete set) and I think I did something wrong. Instead of a bladder, there is a small black round foam... what is that for? Also, on the caps of the aeration style shocks is a hole and screws to place in the hole... what is that for?

Right now, the way I have the shocks built, it does not feel as smooth and consistent as the bladder SSS shocks.

Can someone enlighten me? Matt, Mo, James, etc...

John
The black foam is the volume compensator for the aeration shocks. It holds air in it so that the air and shock oil is mixed instead of the bladder type shocks that separate the air and oil. The shock caps with the hole in them are to be used with the volume compensator. The hole is used to bleed the shock properly. I personally just use the bladders if I want to increase the shock rebound. The aeration shocks, when I build them, rebound nice and slow.
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Old 11-12-2003, 01:16 PM   #4544
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Thanks for the reply James. Sorry I sent you a PM asking the sam question, I just saw you were online and decided to ask.

So, I am going to try the aeration setup... do I leave the screw on the cap?

Thanks for you help again,

John
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Old 11-12-2003, 01:19 PM   #4545
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Originally posted by Runin Ronin
Thanks for the reply James. Sorry I sent you a PM asking the sam question, I just saw you were online and decided to ask.

So, I am going to try the aeration setup... do I leave the screw on the cap?

Thanks for you help again,

John
When building the shock, have the screw tight, then unscrew it when the shock is assembled, and bleed the excess oil out of it, when all of the excess oil is out, tighten it back up to seal the cap.
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