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Old 11-12-2003, 12:14 AM   #4516
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Cool, I've seen quite a few SD's eject battery packs, so I want to make sure that doesn't happen to me
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Old 11-12-2003, 01:42 AM   #4517
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Default Aeration

What is the benefit of Aeration vs bladder style shocks?

I have the Rayspeed chassis and bought some SS shocks (complete set) and I think I did something wrong. Instead of a bladder, there is a small black round foam... what is that for? Also, on the caps of the aeration style shocks is a hole and screws to place in the hole... what is that for?

Right now, the way I have the shocks built, it does not feel as smooth and consistent as the bladder SSS shocks.

Can someone enlighten me? Matt, Mo, James, etc...

John
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Old 11-12-2003, 01:44 AM   #4518
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Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

Long while since I posted. Still running SDs and loving them.

My mod car now has Rayspeed top plate and towers and a chassis I mad myself from 3mm carbon fibre. It's very similar to the factory SSG one but by rearranging the steering levers I have managed to move the cells further forward and further towards the centre.

I also managed to move the servo further forward again, giving even more space for electrics, fan, etc.

I also have the new alloy suspension arm mounts. The 0 kick up front one makes the car alot better. I use it with 5 degree C hubs.

I encountered the same problems with the graphite centre shaft snapping when run with hot mod motors, so I have gone back to my modified TC3 graphite shaft, and have had no more problems.

I have finally got used to the locked front diff. it's one I glued up myself. Does anyone actually make one like IRS do for the TC3?

The other SD is an almost standard SSG car which I run in stock. Only mods here are graphite centre shaft and servo turned through 90 deg. They are both great fun.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 11-12-2003, 02:21 AM   #4519
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
I'm planning on making some aluminum castor blocks really soon now, give me a little time, and I'll propably start to sell em.
Drop me a line when you can Randy.. I might have some more info on this for you

-=Dave
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Old 11-12-2003, 04:56 AM   #4520
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Welcome back johnbull!
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Old 11-12-2003, 06:17 AM   #4521
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Randman... Ever thought of Nylon or Delrin??? Both are strong as hell but will also flex instead of breaking...

Years ago I did the full RPM nylon conversion to my RC10T and haven't broken a part in 10 years. It's now my son's truck, if a 4 year old can't break it, it's not going to break...
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Old 11-12-2003, 07:03 AM   #4522
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Default PISSED OFF

Hi guys need some advice, have finished building the SD and i can't seem to get the ride heights i want, i have followed the book which suggest building the shocks at 60mm. I ended up using the long piece that screws on the end for the front shocks, and even still when wound fully down i still can't get a 6mm ride height, it is 7mm now.

Have you guys found the right length to make them, that works, i just don't see how i can make it work with out tring to make them more than 60mm, and then making it to much longer will weaken it.

why does the kits have two end but tell you to use the one, which doesn't seems to work

also i have never come accross such a hard car to install the motor, the screws are so hard to get into.

please help want tp take iot for a run this weekend, and the way it it looking, the bin is looking better

regards brad p
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Old 11-12-2003, 07:12 AM   #4523
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Hi,

The shock lenght should be at least 62 mm with the standard setup. Make sure also you used the correct hole for the C-Hub, the pin should be in the upper hole.

This is using the standard setup of the car.
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Old 11-12-2003, 07:12 AM   #4524
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Set your shocks to 59.5 and use the small shock ends that came with the Kit..

If you have a nice size wrench the Motor isnt that hard to get to..

Hope this helps

Tg
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Old 11-12-2003, 07:12 AM   #4525
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Use the short ends and unscrews them abit, set the shocks at about 62mm, that will solve your problem.
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Old 11-12-2003, 07:46 AM   #4526
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My fronts are 61mm and my rears are 60mm, I'm lso running the rear tower up front.

Anyone have the origional servo horn strip out? I'm using a Hitec servo and the horn supplied just never seemed to fit right, now I'm using a horn that came with the servo and it fits much better... That was part of my problem the day I broke the C hub, it was srtripped out just enough not to be really noticable but enough to cause some real inconsistency in the steering... the track I'm running on is very tight, there's no room for error... If you aren't hitting the boards on your own, someone will help you... Hahaha...
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Old 11-12-2003, 08:44 AM   #4527
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull
Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

Long while since I posted. Still running SDs and loving them.

My mod car now has Rayspeed top plate and towers and a chassis I mad myself from 3mm carbon fibre. It's very similar to the factory SSG one but by rearranging the steering levers I have managed to move the cells further forward and further towards the centre.

I also managed to move the servo further forward again, giving even more space for electrics, fan, etc.

I also have the new alloy suspension arm mounts. The 0 kick up front one makes the car alot better. I use it with 5 degree C hubs.

I encountered the same problems with the graphite centre shaft snapping when run with hot mod motors, so I have gone back to my modified TC3 graphite shaft, and have had no more problems.


I have finally got used to the locked front diff. it's one I glued up myself. Does anyone actually make one like IRS do for the TC3?

The other SD is an almost standard SSG car which I run in stock. Only mods here are graphite centre shaft and servo turned through 90 deg. They are both great fun.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
Hi John, nice to hear from you again. IRS don't make a spool. I talked with Dave Irrgang the owner and he said they will not be making one because in the past Yoke changes their cars so much that as soon as he had a part made Yoke made another car so he won't be making any parts for the SD.

SpeedTech from this site is working on getting some spools made for the SD and I'm sure if you email him or post on his thread he will let you know how he is making out about having them made.
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Old 11-12-2003, 09:10 AM   #4528
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Hey guys,

Check out my new sig....Buddha went shopping on Monday....

Buddha

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Old 11-12-2003, 09:17 AM   #4529
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Team Losi makes a spool kit that turns your diff into a spool. It has some sandpaper disks that fits in place of the diff balls. Remove the diff balls put in the diff rings and sandpaper disks, tighten and you've got a spool. It shouldn't wear out if you tighten it down correctly.
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Old 11-12-2003, 10:29 AM   #4530
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Just don't break the screw... Not that I'm saying I never did that...
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