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Old 11-09-2003, 12:22 PM   #4411
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I just know about the aftermarket lightweight shafts that were avalible for the R2, those things would snap under modified load...
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Old 11-09-2003, 12:42 PM   #4412
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brutal assassin

Did he really speak to you about this, in Japanese? [/B]
It might come as a suprise to you but Masami speaks English, so does Hara. I spoke to both of them before. I met Surikarn in person before as well but never spoke to him.. my friends who did said he spoke "ok" English.
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Old 11-09-2003, 01:04 PM   #4413
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Hi guys

just finished biulding my rayspeed can not get the front end low any tips please?



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Old 11-09-2003, 01:07 PM   #4414
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Did he really speak to you about this, in Japanese? [/B][/QUOTE]

he spoke about this on Japanese magazine in Japanese. of course I understood that, because of I'm Japanese!!
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Old 11-09-2003, 01:13 PM   #4415
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Masami and Hara speek a lot better English than most any American can speak Japanese.

There are no problems running the Tobee drive shaft in 8, 9 or 10 turn mods. I have yet to see any Tobee shaft bend or snap. It is a must buy for your SD!

I would get the Yoke hardened universals if your running mod, just grind down the balls on the front universals to allow them to fit on the front of the SD. I think Mo has a photo somewhere back in this thread to show what they look like.
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Old 11-09-2003, 01:18 PM   #4416
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Quote:
Originally posted by mark turner
Hi guys

just finished biulding my rayspeed can not get the front end low any tips please?



Mark, what are your shock lengths? check your droop screws, which shock ends are you using, long or short?
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Old 11-09-2003, 03:59 PM   #4417
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Default Tweak

I really think the best way to stop the car tweaking (physically) is to get rid of the centre stiffener. Since I dumped mine I haven't had a single tweak, before I was getting one every meeting (end of meeting was only chance to properly check) - for all I know I could have been getting the tweak in the first run.
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Old 11-09-2003, 04:04 PM   #4418
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Seems also that Chris Grainger removes it also (he also says it gives more steering). What about putting it directly on the chassis (without posts) ? Could be an alternative...
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Old 11-09-2003, 04:18 PM   #4419
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It could still hold a tweak connected directly to the chassis as well though. Maybe not much - but then again, you wouldn't think the stiffener on posts would cause a problem (my observation though is that it does).
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Old 11-09-2003, 04:22 PM   #4420
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A comment on the Yok Harden Universals. I've been asking before about grinding down the balls flush with the pins... but when I got them I didn't. And they fit fine in my SD. I can see a gap between the ballend and the set screw for diff (even with the suspension compressed.) So I'm not sure the reason for this. It is harder to change out a front diff with these though. And I usually end up taking off one steering knuckle to do so. Even with a oneway it fits in with a tiny gap. So I am unsure of this.
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Old 11-09-2003, 04:34 PM   #4421
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
A comment on the Yok Harden Universals. I've been asking before about grinding down the balls flush with the pins... but when I got them I didn't. And they fit fine in my SD. I can see a gap between the ballend and the set screw for diff (even with the suspension compressed.) So I'm not sure the reason for this. It is harder to change out a front diff with these though. And I usually end up taking off one steering knuckle to do so. Even with a oneway it fits in with a tiny gap. So I am unsure of this.
I have the balls ground down to the pins with a front one-way, when I pull the wheel and arm up (compressing the shock) the pin almost bottoms out on the very inside of the drive cup. I would say if you did not grind the ball, it would be hitting the inside of the drive cup, even though the pin would not travel to the bottom of the slot. Also I am running thin O rings inside the drive cup, this requires grinding the ends of the balls off as well.
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Old 11-09-2003, 05:27 PM   #4422
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I am still having luck with my Square front axles and stock bones. Just in case, is this the correct part # for the hardened universals ZS-010FH? I would like to keep one handy.
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Old 11-09-2003, 06:49 PM   #4423
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Hey guys just ran my car for the second week in a row, the car is absolutely great with one exception - the tweek. The car works great but is extremely loose on power exiting a turn (right side). I have the SD Black Chassis, what are you guys doing to rid the car of the tweek problem? I removed the middle chassis stiffner and it hasn't helped.
Those of you that have switched to the rayspeed conversion, have you experienced any tweek problems with the new chassis? Also can you run the rayspeed motor mount on the SD Black chassis?
What is up with the weak arms on this car, I have broken two in one days and they were extremly light hits.
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Old 11-09-2003, 06:53 PM   #4424
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Default Rayspeed Chassis

I just got back from my first outing with the RS conversion. First the car is ultra sensitive. I had to dial out a lot of steering, and needed to lay the shocks inward on both frt and rear.
Trust me I hit quite a few things out there to test something, the TWEAK. Every run I checked it meticulously( I think). Dead on!
I broke a regular arm, and that was it for today.
My setup got pretty close, by the way this if gray ozite.
Frt :
2nd hole inner on tower
2nd hole inner on arm
3hole piston 40 wt, 64mm long
Associated purprle springs
lower hub mount
Spacer on top of spindle
No swaybar
Droop 4 on Hudy
Arms in stock position.
Camber link in inner hole on tower
Rear:
same as frt for position on arm and tower
Same piston, oil, and spring
Same hub position
Center ball mount on hub, -5 degree hub
2 degree block
Arms foward
Droop 5 on hudy
No swaybar
Taped in batteries
100 tooth spur
38 t pinion
19t Genesis motor
60 mm tires Purple/ Plaid.
The car worked very well for very LITTLE track time. I had a fast A main pace up until the 4:45 time in the third round and hit a dot, the batt tape ripped. My fault. So I qual'd in the B main#1, and won by a mile.
I, and so was everyone very impressed with the performance of the RS conversion on carpet. I just cant wait for the graphite stuff, I want arms, and trans cases.
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Old 11-09-2003, 07:05 PM   #4425
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Default spool

Anyone wanting a spool needs to check out Wolfe Motorsports. They make a great spool and they also make the best touring sprongs I have ever used.
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