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Old 11-02-2003, 03:45 PM
  #4186  
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Looking at replaceing my tc3 with a new car. One of the pita parts of the TC3 is changing the spur.

How hard is it to change the spur on the Yok? How many screws to remove?

Thanks
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Old 11-02-2003, 04:10 PM
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Thank you for the responses Matt and Lee, I have decided to go ahead and get the SD, in Black version. I just saw Chris Tosolini run his SD @ SoCal and I was impressed in how well it seemed to go through the turns, it had no tire "screeching" at all. Can't wait to try it out. Now, where's my credit card.....

Buddha
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Old 11-02-2003, 04:11 PM
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Hi,

It's quite easy once you get it (not that easy the fisrt time, but after a few trials, it's ok). Remove the rear diff (2 screws, 4 if you're using anti roll bars), remove central shaft drive cup (only 1 pin to remove) and center shaft, unscrew the spur gear holder, you can get the rear axle out and you got your spur gear holder free (unscrew the top deck if you're using a big spur).

have a look at my article here . I know it's in french, but the pictures are easy to understand and you still have babelfish to translate...

RCBuddha : I've found the SD very responsive to the positioning of the suspension arms (you can either move them forward or backward, 4 mm overall) and this alllows to change the mass balance. This summer, I had issues with my rear tires overheating and screeching after 2 laps, giving a car very fast for thse laps and mainly undriveable after.

Moving the rear arms 1 mm backwards (thus having less weight on the tires) allowed me to keep the tires at a lower temp. After that, my car was perfectly consistent during the whole heat (without heat ahahah), no screeching from the tires at all and amazingly fast.

Last edited by Cobra81li200; 11-02-2003 at 04:25 PM.
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Old 11-02-2003, 04:29 PM
  #4189  
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Buddha, I thought Chris is running the RaySpeed chassis?
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Old 11-02-2003, 05:06 PM
  #4190  
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Originally posted by sands
Looking at replaceing my tc3 with a new car. One of the pita parts of the TC3 is changing the spur.

How hard is it to change the spur on the Yok? How many screws to remove?

Thanks
Changing the spur is not super easy, like it is on an Xray, for example. There may be fewer screws, but changing spurs still takes some time. It's a little easier to do than on your TC3. Don't pick a car for it's spur changing abilities, though If you get the SD you'll find it has a freer drivetrain and better quality composite parts The chassis is much more flexible though
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Old 11-02-2003, 05:35 PM
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I've gotten most of the other info so far on the yok. Spur changes seem the be the most PITA ob that I do at races, ust want a comparison to the TC3.

Can the chassis be made stiffer?
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Old 11-02-2003, 05:46 PM
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Originally posted by Fire
you can check out the album on yokomo usa's web site
they have pics of masami's car there and they shows how the servo rotation is done

is there any nice permanent tracks in alberta??
The only good permanant track in Alberta is up in Edmonton. It is only in use during the summer and is large enough to run 1/8 scale gas. Their website is www.edmontonrc.com
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Old 11-02-2003, 05:52 PM
  #4193  
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Here is a pic of a servo conversion I found.
Attached Thumbnails Yokomo MR-4TC SD-album_pic.jpg  
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Old 11-02-2003, 07:48 PM
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sands: Yes, you can stiffen the chassis. I run it with 2 top decks, which helps, but it's still is not as stiff as the TC3. The graphite transmission cases coming should help stiffen the chassis too. Then, of course, Yok is coming out with the tub version which will hopefully be as good as the TC3's tub (but without the heat-tweaking!!)
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Old 11-02-2003, 08:03 PM
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Originally posted by Matt Howard
get the aluminum ones if your going to run mod, I only put the aluminum one in the rear since that was the only one I ever broke.
So you dont even recommend it on the front, no need?
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Old 11-02-2003, 08:09 PM
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Originally posted by RCBuddha
Thank you for the responses Matt and Lee, I have decided to go ahead and get the SD, in Black version. I just saw Chris Tosolini run his SD @ SoCal and I was impressed in how well it seemed to go through the turns, it had no tire "screeching" at all. Can't wait to try it out. Now, where's my credit card.....

Buddha
I have a feeling that a little bit of that was because of Chris
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Old 11-02-2003, 08:40 PM
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Randman- I've never broken a front drive cup but I've gone through a couple rear ones. After I replaced the rear with aluminum I haven't broken anything in the drivetrain. It wouldn't hurt to put one in the front but I have two SD's so I only got one set for both my cars
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Old 11-02-2003, 08:54 PM
  #4198  
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Well for now, I only have the 1 SD I got the RS ultimate conversion, aluminum rear dogbones, titanium front dogbones, titanium axles, titanium input shafts, titanium screws, titanium kingpins, and I know I'm forgetting some other stuff, but dont worry, it'll be bulletproof when I'm done
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Old 11-02-2003, 09:05 PM
  #4199  
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u have a pic of ur sd randman?
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Old 11-02-2003, 09:06 PM
  #4200  
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Default Rayspeed and Carpet

I saw a rayspeed car that worked so well this last satrday on carpet/rubber tires.And carpet/Foam.Many people have said its not good to convert your Sd to rayspeed if your gonna run on carpet?Why?I want to purchase the conversion but will be running carpet exclusively for the next 3 months.Should I just save my money and Just run my Black sd?Matt Howards car was on a mission saturday and was abosolutely flawless.He arned his win,thats for sure. If you see this Matt could you email me your setup?

[email protected]

Any help guys is appreciated.
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