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Old 10-29-2003, 02:20 PM   #4066
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graphite suspension parts
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Old 10-29-2003, 05:25 PM   #4067
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Thank you forty6.
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Old 10-29-2003, 05:57 PM   #4068
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Thank you forty6.
No prob 2/10.
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Old 10-29-2003, 07:38 PM   #4069
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Hey everyone,

first time to the world of yokomo, I'm way over in Australia, Brisbane. I've been running my TB Evolution 3 for quite some time, as well as my TA04 TRF, however, my 04 has been letting me down in terms of overall performance so I'm looking at a new car to replace it.

At the moment, i'm looking at another Evo 3, however, looking at how well the SD is going, i'm very tempted to grab one and see how I go. Can anyone tell me the ideal kit version, price and what parts availability is like in Brisbane Australia, or Australia in general?

THe track it will be running at will be a long outdoor track with a fast infield and fast straights.

So far the best price I have found is $510AUD at rainbow ten. The other chassis i'm looking at it the TC3, but everyone has those lol.

Than in advance guys.

regards, matt
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Old 10-29-2003, 07:44 PM   #4070
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chrissy C
Randman,

The AEAST V1.3 is the carbon tub chassis. It has been labelled the fibre Lyte chassis, they made it but the chassis is actually called a AEAST V1.3.

Chris
Cool, does anyone know how thick the chassis is?
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Old 10-29-2003, 07:46 PM   #4071
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Quote:
Originally posted by OSherman
I personally would get this chassis (if i were looking for a change)..the reason why i say this.. what i pressume it does is change the roll center of the car...which i did by adding (more than whats advised/supplied in the kit) shims under the arm carrier/toe blocks, and it really gave me the handling that i was looking for..

though this main chassi does it in the opposite way, by lowering the bulkheads/inner camber-link position... I'm just curious to know if this chassis plate is the same or thicker than the stock chassis plate...hopefully, it is the same...

i have not personally used it, but just judging from the design, and how i've adjusted mine..

$0.02
The chassis would definately raise the roll center, which propably wouldnt be a bad thing, except when using other people's setups, you'd have to alter them a little to get it to work.

The chassis is 3mm, and the millouts are propably 1mm deep (possibly .5mm)
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Old 10-29-2003, 08:34 PM   #4072
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Hawker: I would wait until December or so, for the new SD CGM. The SD CGM is the tub version of the car and should reduce the problems with tweak and chassis flex. If you don't want to wait, though, get the Black version because it is (supposedly) lighter and stiffer than the SSG version. Also, the Rayspeed shock towers or an extra rear shock tower to mount up front helps the cars handling/tunability.
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Old 10-29-2003, 10:39 PM   #4073
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thanks 2Tenths,

I like SSG lol I'll take your word for it, and get the black one, I've never been a huge fan of tub chassis', I love my evo lol.

How about parts availablility, anyone know what its like in OZ?

Our current club champ in mod (possiblity national champ...waiting on results this weekend lol) runs one so i'll ask him when he gets back.

regards, matt

p.s hope to be a full time reader here soon
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Old 10-29-2003, 10:44 PM   #4074
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hawker,

You can get the SD through Speedtech for apprx.$440AUD landed at the moment. Parts are available and plenty of through Hobby Habit in SA or if you work in a hobby shop they wholesale under Hobby Works.
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Old 10-30-2003, 04:51 AM   #4075
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hmm $440 is pretty good, I spoke to a couple of guys at work, and they said that ppl seem to be going through center shafts easily, any other bits and pieces that are problmatic on the car? I don't mind what they are, just as long as I can stock up on parts, etc...
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Old 10-30-2003, 05:08 AM   #4076
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Only the graphite center shaft is problematic, no problems with the stock shaft. If you want a lighter shaft, I suggest going for the Tobee Craft lightweight shaft. I got one and I have no problems with it though I run 12T class.

Also, you should consider getting the new graphite parts such as arms, C-Hubs steering blocks and rear hub carrier, because the stock ones breaks on big crashes.

Another thing, you should also be aware of the fact that japanese and US SD kit's are slightly different. Indeed, the japanese version comes with a front one way, and the US with a front diff. Needless to say the manual, as you still can download the english version on yokomo usa.

Anyway, if you get a jap version, be aware of the fact that there is no complete diff available in spare parts, so you'll have to order each part separately, and it's quite expensive. There are also issues using the front one way, as the front wheel axles have a tendancy to break using it, make sure your shafts cross joints are very tightened.
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Old 10-30-2003, 07:19 AM   #4077
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"If anyone is interested in lock diff (aka Spools) for the MR-4TCSD, let me know, since I'm inquirying around for spools for other cars, I can look into making them for the SD as well."

Steve Wang

Steve any news on the spool idea that you talked about a few pages ago? Any update would be killer! Would love a solid diff for the SD.

Jeff
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Old 10-30-2003, 11:11 AM   #4078
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Quote:
Originally posted by hawker
hmm $440 is pretty good, I spoke to a couple of guys at work, and they said that ppl seem to be going through center shafts easily, any other bits and pieces that are problmatic on the car? I don't mind what they are, just as long as I can stock up on parts, etc...
I ran the graphite center shaft with an 8 turn with no problems, I have heard of the drive cups giving people problems though.
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Old 10-30-2003, 12:13 PM   #4079
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what are the problems with the graphite shaft?... I have recently installed one.. where is it weak/break?. I just maily bought it to save some weight, which it does...
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Old 10-30-2003, 12:47 PM   #4080
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The graphite shaft splits where the graphite meets the alum. end shaft. The shaft also flexes alot in mod and can twist. You should be fine in stock.
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