Kenneth Tan

iTrader: (1)

I actually CAed the pin areas and the part where the carbon meets the aluminium ends. Not too sure if it actually made a difference though.

forty6

Then the front MIP Shiny cvds for the MR4TC belt car will have the same fit. Right?

fatboy

Hi, I'm confused of the Gear Ratio as I need u guys to help mi out.

I using a 10turn, 11turn, 15turn and a 23 turn Stock Motor.

Can everyone advise me what the best Final gear ration for the above 4 motors.

alana07

iTrader: (53)

hey fattie,
there's no hard and fast final gear ratio for the motors, each different track requires a different ratio for each of the motors. you need to go down to the track to test and find out for yourself which ratio is the best. another thing is that for the same turn of motor but by different manufacturer also requires different gearing. just my s$0.002 worth......

fatboy

thanks alan,

The manaul that i have for my SD is Japanese. Catch no balls and juz look at the picture only. Are u racing this end of the month at Nacos.

I heard the all the mains are rewarded with $.

U shall be no problem lah, lao qiao already. Me still long way to go and match u leh. me just go there to hope for lucky draw and get some experience lah. hee.eee.eee

2Tenths

I've tried the MIP shiny axles and didn't like them. What they did was, if you tightened the wheel lock-nut too much, the drivetrain would bind. I could tell this was happening because I had a one-way on the front of the car, as well as the shiny axle and the tighter the front lock nuts were, the slower and slower the one-way spun. Once I put the kit axles back in, though, I could tighten the front wheel lock-nuts as much as I wanted and no binding occured at all.

Basically, don't spend the $20 on the MIP axles and instead, if you want to have a stronger axle, spend $16 and get the Tobee Craft hardened stub axles from Rainbow Ten or SpeedTech. The $16 is for the front and rear stub axles. (8 dollars a pair)
These don't replace the dogbone, but they are much thicker than the brittle kit axle.

marzin

I think the Rayspeed shock towers are sold out at rainbowten

2Tenths

The body Masami ran to win the Japan Nats is going to be sold by Yokomo, as a Yokomo part. I looked on Yokomo's main site and it is listed under new products as the "G350GT Sports Sedan" body. I thought Chevron made this body, but I guess Yok bought the rights to it or they are going to make it themselves. Anyways, this should make it easier to get, I hope, and when someone buys one, they should post on how it handles compared to a Protoform Stratus or Alfa.

James Nguyen

The body still has a Chevron Models part number on it on the Yokomo website.

Roger

iTrader: (10)

they should fit but i would still use the yokomo hardened universals for the MR4-TC

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Howdy folks,

I finally ran the car with its final setup yesterday night... this thing's a total dream! Going to the rear shock tower up front was a major improvement over steering quality overall, without making the car too twitchy... The SD is close to the best I've driven till now, although it's only run a dozen packs so far. I love it!

Later,
Paul

ongbenghui

iTrader: (5)

Hi lonestar,

Mind if you can share your setup ?

NightKidZ

Just got my paws on the new Yokomo/Chervon G350GT shell.

Must say, I was surprised at how slammed it was. Plus there were two very interesting points about that shell.

1) It comes with two strips of lexan cross bracing for the shell to prevent it from caving in at high speeds.

2) Dajiro Kato (late MotoGP star) personalize number "74" is on the rear wheel flashing of the shell.

Cheers

ongbenghui

iTrader: (5)

Any pics ?

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Er... I mean, it's perfect for me, I'm no Barry Baker, I like easy cars with a slight push that are not too aggressive ... I'm far from being a setup whiz, I'm sure it can be improved on, so don't take it for granted!

Front:
stock springs
35wt piston #2 (Stock)
no foam, short shock end
A-arm hole 2nd from inside
rear shock tower upfront, shocks layed down to max
camber link: C-hub most outside hole, shock tower lowet row, second from inside hole
ride height 4mm
0 deg tow out 1deg camber
A-arms position: 1mm shim in back

rear:
stock springs
35wt piston #2 (Stock)
no foam, lonf shock end
A-arm hole 2nd from outside
shock tower highest hole,
camber link: hub 2nd hole from outside, shock tower lowest row second from inside hole
ride height 4.5mm
3 deg tow in 1 deg camber
A-arms position: 2mm shim in back

Orion B-type tires (spec), on carpet, tire suace TC2 30 min rear 10mn front 100% , 2 diffs (can't drive a one way on carpet to save my life). No swaybars.

if I forgot anything, it's because it's stock (for instance droop settings), as per the instructions

Car is VERY easy and super smooth in sweepers and chicanes. beautiful motricity.

Enjoy, and don't blame me if you don't like it! I do

Later
Paul