R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-04-2003, 10:18 PM   #3646
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 116
Default

Thats what I was trying to figure out, I just need all the part numbers so I can figure out a price, and then compare it to the option you suggested.
Trevor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2003, 10:38 PM   #3647
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 132
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by MarNaDaKi
CustomfibreR/C :

SWEEEEEEET
CustomfibreR/C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2003, 10:41 PM   #3648
Tech Master
 
forty6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,922
Default

Here is the parts list with yen prices.
http://www.teamyokomo.com/japan/prod...t_mrtc-sd1.pdf
forty6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2003, 10:47 PM   #3649
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 116
Default Thanks

I can add up the cost, but I was just trying to find out if I had missed any parts, as I don't have a SD, so I can't be totally sure.

Thanks again.
Trevor
Trevor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2003, 12:46 AM   #3650
Tech Elite
 
Roger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,312
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff Werner
Yok racers- what is your take on the SD with a one way? Going to run on a very large sweeping track in two weeks for a regional race and have not ran a oneway in the yok. Going to be running mod sedan. Thanks for any thoughts.

Jeff
Jeff:

Use your one-way for large sweeping tracks so your car can carry more corner speed on the corners. Try to set-up your brakes on your radio to the point where if you were to hit full brakes, the car doesn't corkscrew or hook around you. I think your be very happy with the results if you ran a one-way on that track you just described. Goodluck.
__________________
http://nitrokb.netne.net/profiles/RogerSerafin.html
Roger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2003, 01:46 AM   #3651
Tech Elite
 
JimmyMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: NC
Posts: 4,443
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I normally run oneway regardless of track design. But that's just me. Maybe if they or someone built a steel Spool, I'd run that. But I go would go thru too many outdrives. Anyways... Do what Roger said. Adjust your brakes accordingly. You could also try ABS this way too if your radio supports it. But it's more involve tuning.

Okay, I ran the RS Chassis today. I dunno if it was a good day to run it. I was down on horse power. Anyways, I ran the same setup on this chassis as I did with my SSG chassis. Only things different besides chassis were the SS Shocks, RaySpeed #2 pistons, Ceramic diffballs, and front shock mounting position. Basically my SSG chassis had a RaySpeed setup even before I got the RS chassis.

So let's see, first the car seemed pretty responsive with crisp steering input. The car was planted. But I had a slight amount of push off power. I wasn't able to hook around when I wanted to. I went from 6.5mm rear droop to 6mm rear droop which helped alittle. I could have gone to 5.5mm. Maybe next time. I also attribute this slight push to the shock mounting position. On some of the RaySpeed setups it calls for using the 2nd from the outside hole on lower arm for shock mounting. Normally it's 2nd from the inside. But with this other mounting the arm has less leverage against the shock. So it would seem to be a stiffer front end. Also prevents full lock to lock steering because the tires will rub against the spring cups. Actually it's just about full lock to lock. Just make sure you pay attention to this and adjust the EPA on your radio so you don't go rubbing when turning lock to lock.

My chassis didn't rub much either. Usually it'll rub some in the rear. And the outter edges. This time it was a very slight amount. So the weight has definately been shifted forward. I didn't wreck much if at all (however I got taken out before the first turn at the start of the race. Go figure! haha.) But I did not experience any tweaking at all today. Car was pretty consistant.

I ran Stock by the way. Oh but I DID twist ANOTHER Yokomo graphite main shaft!!! This is my second one. I'm wondering if thats why my car seemed off power today than it was last weekend. I checked my shaft last night and it was straight. But after all the racing today I looked at it and noticed it was twisted. Maybe I'll try the Tobee Craft one. I dunno, maybe I'm just putting down too much HP in Stock???! Maybe it's the oneways, I dunno.

Anyways, it's hard to compare this chassis to the old one considering my old setup was perfect for this track from the start. I think with a few changes to front shock location and rear droop, I can get it rolling. I do like the steering input. And that was about the only real noticable difference I could tell so far. That and no tweaking and torque steer that I remember.

Blah blah blah, I'll be running the RaySpeed Chassis on carpet with foams next weekend. We'll see how this works out!!

Jimmy Mac
JimmyMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2003, 04:12 AM   #3652
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Singapore
Posts: 697
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default Use losi ball cup

Quote:
Originally posted by Trevor
Hi,
have a SD (yet) . The only thing I have not listed are the turnbuckles and ball cups, as I could not find any part numbers for them, so could you guys please post them?
Use Losi Ball Cup instead. The yokomo ones are quite weak.
You can download the manual to use you an idea of
the turnbuckles length. And order from Lundsford.



Maybe you can advise how much that will cost you.
ongbenghui is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2003, 08:02 AM   #3653
Tech Elite
 
Jeff Werner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 2,277
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to Jeff Werner
Default

Kilruf- thanks for the input. The track I am going to is similar to the looks of the track you raced the Nats on. Large outdoor new surface track. Any way Icould get your setup from that track? Thanks again!

Jeff Werner
Jeff Werner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2003, 10:24 AM   #3654
Tech Addict
 
lonestar1127's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Country of Wind
Posts: 678
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Yokomo graphite shaft is nt strong even for stock race?
lonestar1127 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2003, 10:54 AM   #3655
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,984
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Ok am I correct? The rear shock tower gives more steering and if so is it more on power steering? 19T class carpet at http://www.rctrack.com and I did not do as well as I should last Saturday. Some of it was me (mostly) and I just felt I needed more corner speed.
Isaac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2003, 12:23 PM   #3656
Registered User
 
2Tenths's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 220
Default

Kilruf: Thanks for the first run analysis.

I've also noticed that, with my RS FRONT shock tower, the shock positions that the included setup sheet asks for are too close to the wheels. They want you to use the hole in the front arm that is the second farthest out, and if you use this hole, the tire will rub on the shock end under hard steering. Of course, this is with 26mm foams; maybe that position only works with 24mm rubber tires.

I had the same issue on the rear of the car, where if you run the farthest out hole on the rear arm (shock position) the shock end would rub on the tire.

To fix these two problems, I moved the shock end (on the arm) in by one hole, and now the tires won't rub. Of course, this will also stand up the shocks, so I also used a one hole more layed down shock position on the tower.

forty6: I will post my reactions or issues to the RS chassis handling after I run it on Friday or Saturday. I must say, however, that I have made a ton of setup changes since running last week, so I expect that even if the chassis helps, I may not know whether it is the chassis or setup which is improving the car.
2Tenths is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2003, 12:50 PM   #3657
Tech Regular
 
NightKidZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 394
Send a message via ICQ to NightKidZ
Talking

Quote:
Originally posted by lonestar1127
Yokomo graphite shaft is nt strong even for stock race?
Stand by for broadcast, stand by for broadcast :P

Graphite shaft NOT recommended even for stock 23 turn use.
I say again, Graphite shaft NOT recomended even for stock 23 turn use.

End of broadcast :P
NightKidZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2003, 03:14 PM   #3658
R/C Tech Founder
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Del Mar, CA, USA
Posts: 7,063
Default

I just tried to fit a set of foam tires (Jaco) on an SD, with less than stellar results. The front wheels lock up on the steering knuckles, and the rear wheels rub on the shock mount when it is in the far out position.

Does the car only accept a particular brand (or offset) of wheel?

I am going to add 1mm spacers for now, but that pushes the car out beyond the legal width limit (just over 192mm for me rather than 190mm).
__________________
Visit my store: www.ampdraw.com
futureal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2003, 03:26 PM   #3659
wyd
Tech Legend
 
wyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,141
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to wyd
Default

Don't worry I had the same problem with Jaco tires. I like them the best. I ended up using the TRC 26MM foams and it is a ton better. I run in one hole in the front a arm and in one on the rear and don't have any problems.
__________________
Castle Creations (Since 2005) Just awesome products
Bumps & Jumps RC (Great Indoor facility for offroad and oval)
ST Racing Concepts (STRC)
Custom Works (Best Oval Cars around)
wyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2003, 04:08 PM   #3660
Registered User
 
2Tenths's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 220
Default

I also run the TRC 26mm foams (plaid, purple) because they fit without modification on the front of the the car. I've seen others here with the SD buy the Jaco 28mm tire and actually true down the inside of the wheel on the tire truer. They do this only for the front tires, making the fronts 27mm wide and leaving the rears 28mm wide.

wyd: Besides how the tires fit, how do the Jaco and TRC tires compare handling wise, and what compounds have you tried? What are the advantages or disadvantages to running a wider or narrower tire?
2Tenths is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
yokomo or yokomo parts yokomo7 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 4 12-19-2009 08:45 PM
Yokomo is coming out with a new version of the bd : Yokomo BD 2 roadrashracing Electric On-Road 12 12-19-2007 07:08 AM
yokomo Aluminum Steering Bellcrank Posts and other yokomo spares hurley081182 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 2 02-27-2006 06:07 PM
Lots FS: CRC 3.2 & Yokomo YRX-12, Yokomo TC Tires, JR Receivers, New Motors, more TurboFC3S R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 15 09-22-2005 09:38 PM
WTB Yokomo 1/12 Mini...Trade for 1/10 Yokomo dynamic_e R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 07-12-2003 05:58 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:36 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net