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Old 09-29-2003, 09:56 PM   #3556
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if you remove the bottom stiffner the chassis will flex and cause the suspension to be less effective not sure if it would allow you to break the shaft as its heavy as a truck but it wouldnt be good
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Old 09-29-2003, 10:20 PM   #3557
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I talked to Peter at Rain, and he thought that the center stiffener would cause the chassis to tweak in an accident. According to him, removing it helped him reduce the amount of tweak from a wreck/running, because the stiffener actually holds the chassis in a bad position after it is tweaked, instead of returning to normal. So, I removed the center stiffener, and thought that at the very least I was shaving weight off my already overweight car.

The stiffener only helps the car's stiffness from front - to rear flex, not side to side. Its was probably designed to prevent the problem of the gear boxes actually coming closer together after an accident, breaking the gears. However, I have not had this problem yet (I think ) You will also notice that on the prototype pictures of the Rayspeed chassis (earlier in the thread) Adachi, or whoever it was, was not running a center stiffener.

Kilruf - Thank you for posting the chassis dimensions of the Rayspeed Conversion.
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Old 09-30-2003, 12:57 AM   #3558
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All,

thanks for the feedback. I will disassemble the front UJ's and look again... I can read two very different things here... From those of you who said it happens, some say once they wear out it's fine, the others that the UJ's simply break... I don't like this. I've got some Square Ti bones on order, hopefully that'll fix it. Still it sucks that a new car has this kind of problems.

Short/long shock ends: i've tried both. The problem I had with the long shock ends is that you can't use the inner shock_tower/arms holes, because the apparent part of the shaft under load is now too short and the suspension can't compress as it should anymore. It's only good for the outer holes. Another trick is to unscrew standard shock ends enough, however they're still too short to reach the outer holes... Of course with this mod it's recommended your downstops are adjusted correctly, or you'll rip the shock end off the shaft if you hit a board the wrong way...

Middle chassis-stiffener: funny, I heard the opposite, that if you don't have it, I was also told by the factory guy it will tweak easier on a hard hit. To fix the tweak, unscrew, flatten, screw back. Fixed. As far as flex is concerned, I dont there's enough to damage the gears, since the car's using a floating center shaft anyway, and there's a few millimeters of play... you need to bend the chassis quite a bit to overcome all this play!

Later
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Last edited by Lonestar; 09-30-2003 at 05:05 AM.
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Old 09-30-2003, 02:15 AM   #3559
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so it seems that both the yoke sd and tamiya evo3 both have probs.
even the best to cars [tamiya first though ] have problems.
at least both of them can be fixed with a little modication and hop-ups!
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Old 09-30-2003, 05:04 AM   #3560
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Default one more thing...

One more question... if I do the servo rotation mod, will I HAVE to remove the center stiffener? It looks so to me... Can somebody please confirm whether when you rotate the servo you can still use the middle ssg plate? Thanks!

Currently working on the car... And there's a hard spot in the steering rack... quick inspection reveals that the ballcups on the tie-rod that links both steering arms (sorry, wrong words I guess) hits the A-arm hinge-pin holder at neutral... I had to trim some of the hinge pin holder (plastic) off with an x-acto.

Did I get a lemon or what???

That's hardly acceptable from a $300 car...

Paul
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Old 09-30-2003, 07:24 AM   #3561
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Lonestar,

No, you need not to remove anything.


For the center steering link, I even replaced the kit ballcup to the RPM ballcup. I do have to filed the ball cup down to the size that it won't hit or rub against the suspension block.

Nah, you didn't get a lemon. Spend a little more time with the car. I got the SD since May, I really like it. You will find the car is very easy to drive.

Good Luck..
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Old 09-30-2003, 07:42 AM   #3562
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Hi!

Would like to know up to what size of spur gear (64dp) can be used for the Rayspeed Chassis?

Thanks!
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Old 09-30-2003, 10:30 AM   #3563
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Speaking of spur gears, anybody have a list of brands of 64-pitch gears that work with the car?
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Old 09-30-2003, 10:34 AM   #3564
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Pretty much any brand with the standard hole pattern should work. Xenon, Kimbrough, Robinson, etc. I use the Xenon gears and normally run a 103 tooth gear.
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Old 09-30-2003, 10:58 AM   #3565
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I'm using 100/64 pitch made by "Star Force". HPI also work as well..

With some other brand people might not beable to put all 4 screws in. The rule of thumb is if it work on 1/12th scale diff, you should be able to put all 4 screws in.
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Old 09-30-2003, 02:23 PM   #3566
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Just got my rayspeed stuff.
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Old 09-30-2003, 02:27 PM   #3567
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I also had a Rayspeed setup sheet translated into English. Ill try to scan it tonight.
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Old 09-30-2003, 03:50 PM   #3568
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Centre stiffener tweak - since removing it, I haven't had a chassis tweak at all. While it was fitted, the chassis would take a tweak at some point in every race meeting.
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Old 09-30-2003, 04:18 PM   #3569
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I like RW spurs. Also the RS Chassis lets you use larger spurs. You don't need to take the top plate off to slip the spur out during a change. I normally use a 100 RW Spur. But my 112 will just fit thru the top hole.

I ran into a problem with the RaySpeed Chassis. Maybe it's only me. I dunno. But I cannot fit a Futaba Servo (9550) on there with the stock servo mounts. The linkage will rub against the servo. So I need to find "normal" ones that don't push the servo farther forward.

A comment on the 90 servo mod. You can still run the center brace. But you have to cut the upper ear off your servo to fit under the center brace. Also need to cut the stock servo mount or get the Tamiya low profile servo mounts. On the RaySpeed Chassis, you dont' have to cut the ears off. The servo is pushed farther out.

Blah blah blah... let me go eat my Bojangles and work on my car...
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Old 09-30-2003, 04:26 PM   #3570
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I am about to order a SD from speedtech RC but what bits are woth getting with it? I want to make the drive train light but still withstand a 12turn mod so the yokomo graphite shaft would snap i think, what other is best? Also what are the best input shafts for the transmission? Rayspeed springs? Ti screws? Help i have no experience of this car at all. Thanks Rick
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