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Old 09-06-2003, 02:08 PM   #3241
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Default Re: Battery mounting...

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Originally posted by IH
Hi,

I had a race today and the car was really great. But after a major impact the batteries came loose. This happened to me and another SD-Driver. It seems like the plastic of the mount is too soft and therefore it will bend up under heavy loads. Are there any alternatives e.g. battery straps

I had the same problem with a pack which didn't have shrink plastic thing around each cell, now I bought the tobee retainer.
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Old 09-06-2003, 05:59 PM   #3242
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The Tobee battery braces are great. They keep the cells from moving as much and are fairly lightweight. I've noticed a battery seating problem too, but only with SMCs. The SMC 3300 cells come with shink wrap on them, but then they put the label on top of the wrap. So, if you try to cover the label with a second layer of shrink wrap (to protect it) there are now two layers and the cells are too large to fit well in the chassis, if you are running the Tobee braces. Since I like the braces a lot though, I just run the layer the cell comes with and let the labels take a beating. I think the fit is worth it.

I was wondering about filing techiniques for battery slots. I've been filing them by hand so that the finish is precise and clean, but this can take up to 4 hours. Is there a way to get good results using a Dremel so the filing takes less time?
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Old 09-06-2003, 08:33 PM   #3243
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You can use Dremel if you like, but you would end up with rounded corners if you went all the into corner, grinding away more material, than filing by hand. I filed my chassis using a very coarse hand file for about an hour, and came out with clean results. If you use a hand file, always clean out the surface so that file does not get clogged up with graphite.
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Old 09-07-2003, 01:11 AM   #3244
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Anyone interested in a brand new S9451 with the ear cut to fit underneath the shaft? PM me...
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Old 09-07-2003, 11:29 AM   #3245
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Thanks for your suggestions, guys. I will order the Tobee part. Hope it fixes the problem.

Mo: What is the part number of the RPM ball cups that you use?

Greets,
IH
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Old 09-07-2003, 11:44 AM   #3246
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Default Potential motor mount mod

Since it is still more difficult to reinstall the motor, I was looking for an easier solution and thought about dremelling out slots on the upper edges of the screw slots so the screws could be dropeed in from above, already attached to the motor (see sketch ).

Anyone try anything like this?
Will there be an integrity issue with the aluminum being cut?
You guys think it would work?

I just want to get some other opinions before I start cutting up perfectly good pieces.
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Old 09-07-2003, 12:27 PM   #3247
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Default Re: Potential motor mount mod

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Originally posted by Rampant
Since it is still more difficult to reinstall the motor, I was looking for an easier solution and thought about dremelling out slots on the upper edges of the screw slots so the screws could be dropeed in from above, already attached to the motor (see sketch ).

Anyone try anything like this?
Will there be an integrity issue with the aluminum being cut?
You guys think it would work?

I just want to get some other opinions before I start cutting up perfectly good pieces.
I use a 2.5mm ball-hex driver for the motor screws and don't have that hard a time mounting/unmounting to justify a mod like the one you are suggesting. Nice diagram though. IMHO, I think after you make the cut, the mount may not be strong enough and a big hit might send your motor flying.
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Old 09-07-2003, 03:54 PM   #3248
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I don't have any problems with using my stock motor mount. It's pretty easy actually. I think the main problem with using what you are suggesting would be that sometimes the washers might interfere with trying to guide the motor thru the slots that you suggest cutting. Especially if the motor screws aren't long enough. I dunno, give it a try and let us know!
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Old 09-07-2003, 05:20 PM   #3249
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Quote:
Originally posted by IH
Thanks for your suggestions, guys. I will order the Tobee part. Hope it fixes the problem.

Mo: What is the part number of the RPM ball cups that you use?

Greets,
IH
They are the Blue Heavy Duty ball cups:
73375 Heavy Duty Rod Ends (12) 4-40 - Blue

The shanks are a bit longer that the Yokomo ball cups so I cut a little off the ends so they can be adjusted shorter if you need to.
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Old 09-07-2003, 05:50 PM   #3250
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Default Re: Potential motor mount mod

Quote:
Originally posted by Rampant
Since it is still more difficult to reinstall the motor, I was looking for an easier solution and thought about dremelling out slots on the upper edges of the screw slots so the screws could be dropeed in from above, already attached to the motor (see sketch ).
Probably not a good idea. Once you have the slot cut, you cannot
place your motor at the slot position. That might limit your gearing
in future.

I would like to see a precision motor mount that is adjustable by screws for precise adjustment, sort of the tools holder of a motor
lathe.


something like the
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Old 09-07-2003, 10:52 PM   #3251
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what exacly is a one way? i thought I knew, but i guess i don't...
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Old 09-08-2003, 02:08 PM   #3252
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A one way differential lets the front tires spin freely when no throttle is being applied. It also prevents the tires from moving backwards. A center one way allows the whole front diff spin freely without throttle.
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Old 09-08-2003, 05:13 PM   #3253
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Anyone have any pics or know where I can see some pics of the SD with the servo mounted across the chassis like they were doing on the SP? I notice that the servo won't mount with the servo mounts as they hit the lower center deck brace. Do most just take it out? My other option is just to use shoe-goo and mount my servo that way. I have done that in the past and it never comes loose.

I did see a few pics but it is hard to tell as they had the toplate on and I couldn't see very well.

Thanks
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Old 09-08-2003, 05:43 PM   #3254
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Quote:
Originally posted by wyd
use shoe-goo and mount my servo that way. I have done that in the past and it never comes loose.
I beleive that the inner mount has to be removed. Shoe-goo is the best option if you're not comfortable with drilling new holes in your chassis.

E
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Old 09-08-2003, 07:30 PM   #3255
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Hey guys, I'd like to say that I'm the proud owner of a brand new Yokomo... So far I'm extremely happy with it (nock on wood...) I'll be running it on 2 different carpet tracks this winter... I'll post some pics of my new CLK body as soon as I find my camera...
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