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Old 08-31-2003, 12:53 AM   #3151
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The Reason why you break your drive shaft is because you didnt PUT BLACK GREASE in it thats why it ceases up and get stuck so just Add black grease and Thread lock the Set screw. if not its going to be problems again.
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Old 08-31-2003, 02:59 AM   #3152
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Default gease the bevels

Hi,

is it a good idea to gease the bevel gears ? i saw an article in
a japanese magazine that suggest so.

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Old 08-31-2003, 03:06 AM   #3153
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AllPimp, another thing you can try is rear droop. Try raising the rear arms up more (less droop). You can go .5 mm at a time and try it out.

Also make sure you have right tires for the weather conditions. Wrong tires will make the rear end loose too. For summer weather you can go with Takeoff 32's or Sorex 32's or 36's. This'll put you in the current temp range. Example was I tried to run CS27's. But the car was too loose. Tossed on a set of CS32's and the car hooked right up.
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Old 08-31-2003, 06:16 AM   #3154
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Thanks KilRuf, I've een playing around with sorex 36 i think. I'm gonna pick me up a few sets of tires wiith diffrent compounds for this weekends race. We staart out in the afternoon and go till late night, so have some changing track temps. thanks again!
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Old 08-31-2003, 08:19 AM   #3155
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On carpet i have been using Sorex 24 and Sorex 22. I have also been using Take off CS22 and CS27
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Old 08-31-2003, 10:32 AM   #3156
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King when you coming out to socal agian for some racing? I tried greens up front and yellow in the rear and it felt alot better, with 45 all around. I need a one way really bad
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Old 08-31-2003, 11:53 AM   #3157
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Default Re: stick pack trouble.

Quote:
Originally posted by ongbenghui
Hi,

I wondering if anyone here is running with stick pack.

I find that there is a 1mm gap between the battery post of each end as well, as another 1mm gap between the pack and battery holder. This causes the pack to "slide" around the chassis.
You can go to the local hardware store and get some weather strip foam tape. Put some under the strap and this should prevent the battery from sliding around.
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Old 08-31-2003, 12:21 PM   #3158
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I bought a used SD and just disassembled it after a couple of prelim runs. Now I have questions:

1) Isn't the spur gear carrier pin supposed to slid out once you undo the setscrew? I undid the setscrew and used a flashlight to see where the pin was - and it is slightly forward of the hole and the carrier will not slide at all. Any suggestions?

2) There is a lot of slop in the steering bell crank. There are RPM ball cups on most of the linkage except for the belcrank connector on the bottom. Is this common and is there a fix besides just replacing the ball cups with fresh ones?

Thanks for any help. The car is pretty amazing just with the base setup. I can't wait to get the car sorted out and experiment.
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Old 08-31-2003, 04:48 PM   #3159
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1) No, the pin isn't supported by the set screw. You have to slide the input shaft rearward a little to access the pin. So, assembled, as you look from above, the pin actually sits forward of the pin holes and the set screw keeps everything from sliding to reveal the pin. Sorry I can't explaing it any better, but does that make any sense at all?

2) I have the same thing, but only on the driver side front tire. Haven't found a solution for it yet, but wouldn't mind finding one. I don't feel a negative affect from it though.

Good luck and good choice on the SD.
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Old 08-31-2003, 08:07 PM   #3160
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Do not put black grease on on the coupler on the driveshafts. This causes them to bind and freeze up. Also use as little thread lock as you can. To much and it will also seize up the driveshafts.

I usually put a little diff lube on my gears when I first build it to help break in. Run to thick of grease and it will produce drag. I tried white lighting but did not like the waxy film it created and caused binding.
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Old 08-31-2003, 08:22 PM   #3161
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Quote:
Originally posted by ChrisF
I bought a used SD and just disassembled it after a couple of prelim runs. Now I have questions:

1) Isn't the spur gear carrier pin supposed to slid out once you undo the setscrew? I undid the setscrew and used a flashlight to see where the pin was - and it is slightly forward of the hole and the carrier will not slide at all. Any suggestions?
Here is a link to the online manual: http://www.teamyokomo.com/japan/manu...1_manual_e.pdf

Page 11 shows you show to remove the shaft. On page 9, it shows you how to access the spur gear.

Basically, you first remove the shaft. Take off the rear diff cover and remove the rear diff. push the input shaft to the rear and the pin will release. Then completely pull the input shaft out the rear.

It sounds difficult, but after you've done it once or twice, you can do this in about two minutes.
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Old 08-31-2003, 10:06 PM   #3162
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hi, i got a small qusetion, i recently purchased two yokomo cars for 200 and i was trying to find replaecment parts and not being a yokomoguy i found it hard to figure out which version of the MR4tc i had =[


couple Q's


#1 which version is the latest? MR4tc custom OR MR4tc SPECIAL? which one is categorized as a BETTER car than the other?

#2 are their parts interchangeable? if not what parts are NOT interchangeable? because in the manual on yokomo's site they look very similar

#4 what is the biggest difference?

#5 can somenoe figure out what version i have? i am so confused because the motor plate is the SPECIAL edition where as the BELT TENSIONER is from the CUSTOM edition =[, i suppose the pre-owner put them on without relizing its from the WRONG edition,



THANK YOU =]

















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Old 08-31-2003, 10:34 PM   #3163
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xaznriceracerx, the special came before the custom, the parts are practically the same, the special got all the world winning hop-ups, and the custom started with only a few. The parts are interchangeable, because it is based off of the original MR4-TC. As for which one is which, they are both SSG, which means both have the upgraded chassis, they are identical. You have to find the hop-ups within the drivetrain, i.e. one-pulley, etc.
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Old 08-31-2003, 10:38 PM   #3164
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Anyone have any tips how to free the drivetrain up? I cleaned the bearings out. And how many shims should I run all around?
I have taking some out but just want to see what ytou guys are doing

thanks
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Old 08-31-2003, 11:27 PM   #3165
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Have you run the car yet? When I built my car I degreased the bearings and shimmed everything per the instructions. After about 3-4 packs through the car everything spun very free
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