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Old 08-30-2003, 12:12 AM   #3136
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Sorry Nevada, got plans to camping this weekend. Maybe next time.
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Old 08-30-2003, 01:24 AM   #3137
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wyd- no I havent' played with the Yokomo charge yet on the BCS charger, I'm just using the regular peak charge. Glad you like it, I know I like mine
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Old 08-30-2003, 02:13 AM   #3138
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Where is the servo saver on the Rayspeed chassis conversion?
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Old 08-30-2003, 09:20 AM   #3139
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Brian L
You are going to have to play around with moving the shims. I believe my car only has 2 on the bevel gear and both shims on the long diff halve so it moves the gear away from the little bevel gear freeing up the car.


Thanks for the idea. I remove 2 shims from the rear gear box bevel gear and it is much better. Funny that my front gear box seems okie with 3 shims.

Thanks for the note on the carbon shaft and gear color.

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Old 08-30-2003, 10:36 AM   #3140
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Hey Everyone, ik justy ran my SD for the first time yesterday and I was fighting a loose condition. Everytime exiting the corners my backend wanted to switch with the front. Any sudgestions on a setup for asphult semi-preped serface? Also am wondering what tires might be good for asphult racing. Track temps easily get over 100 untill it rains. Thanks in advance

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Old 08-30-2003, 11:04 AM   #3141
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To get more traction coming out of corners, try running some pro-squat. This is done by using 0.7 to 1 mm of shimming under the rear arm mount of the rear arms.

James - The servo on the new chassis faces forward and the batteries are located further forward. This gives the car a better balance.

I don't know whether anyone has tried the Adachi setup on their Yok, but I've been running it and it helps a lot. All you do is shift both the front and rear wheel bases all the way back. This brings the weight further forward, like on the Rayspeed conversion, and seems to handle better.
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Old 08-30-2003, 11:52 AM   #3142
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Just tested my car for the first time this afternoon at my local track and i have to admit i was impressed. Using the basic kit set up with the front one-way and no anti-roll bars and geared at close to 6.3 with 64dp gears on a monster stock the car was nice and smooth , slight body roll in the corners.

I did have some slight oversteer but nothing that caused me to spin out which was mainly caused by having the kit springs fitted which are really to soft for my liking.

Man is the car quiet too, the loudest thing i could hear as i went round was the motor screaming down the straight. Roll on tomorrow when i will be racing it for the first time and i will get to see what effect set-up changes make in lap times and how the car feels to drive.

On a slightly sad note i did manage to run wide onto the main straight ( pushing too hard on cold tyres ) and spin leaving me side ways on to the direction of travel and my mate who i was using as a pace car hit me square in the right rear wheel breaking a wishbone . To be honest after hearing about people saying the car is weak i expected plenty of damage to wishbones, hinge pins etc as it was a big high speed impact. As luck would have it i had a pair of wishbones sitting in my spares box so im still able to race tomorrow but i will be on the phone ordering more first thing monday morning.
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Old 08-30-2003, 11:53 AM   #3143
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Rayspeed SD
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File Type: jpg rs sd.jpg (27.0 KB, 180 views)
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Old 08-30-2003, 03:23 PM   #3144
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Quote:
Originally posted by 2Tenths
James - The servo on the new chassis faces forward and the batteries are located further forward. This gives the car a better balance.
From the old pics posted of the Rayspeed chassis kit, I was wondering if you still use the original servo saver mounted on the bellcrank. Adachi's car doesnt have a servo saver on it.
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Old 08-30-2003, 03:27 PM   #3145
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aku-man, is that yours? where did you get your rayspeed sd chassis conversion?
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Old 08-30-2003, 04:40 PM   #3146
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Just giving my car the once over ready for racing tomorrow and i found this ( see pic ) now this broken drive shaft has put me out off a major meeting tomorrow and to be honest im not sure how this happened unless it was when my mate hit my car in the right rear breaking the right rear wishbone.

Looks like im going to be ordering even more parts on monday .

Forgot to say that the drive shaft was in the right front of the car and not the rear where the impact happened.
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Old 08-30-2003, 04:44 PM   #3147
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Quote:
Originally posted by 2Tenths
I don't know whether anyone has tried the Adachi setup on their Yok, but I've been running it and it helps a lot. All you do is shift both the front and rear wheel bases all the way back. This brings the weight further forward, like on the Rayspeed conversion, and seems to handle better.
i have been running my car like this for a month at least.
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Old 08-30-2003, 07:40 PM   #3148
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Hi,

I wondering if anyone here is running with stick pack.

I find that there is a 1mm gap between the battery post of each end as well, as another 1mm gap between the pack and battery holder. This causes the pack to "slide" around the chassis.

Anyway to get around with this ? Does, the old battery holder
from MR4-TCSP works better ?
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Old 08-30-2003, 07:41 PM   #3149
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How strong is the aluminium drive axle ? I find that
the previous ones for MR4-TC is pretty weak.

Any good options for that ? I find that the standard
steel drive is heavy and tend to rust over time.
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Old 08-30-2003, 08:15 PM   #3150
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I have been running Square titanium axles with stock bones in the front and Tobee alum bones in the rear with Square axles for stock. On my mod car I have Square axles in the rear with the Yok alum bones and the hardened universal for the MR4 in front. I have not broken any of them in either car. Either way is pricey, but the hardened universals should not break. Chris T. was running them in the front of his car, part# zs-010fh retail price $45. Make sure to check your steering throw in the car. You only need so much expo and after that you are only adding stress to parts in your car. Also, do not run alum bones in the front of the car.
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