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Old 08-09-2003, 09:20 AM   #2896
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Default Re: The Drive Train

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Originally posted by Nitro_Crash
I have heard and seen that thet Yokomo MR4TC SD Drivetrain can be freed so much that you can spin the wheels and they can spin forever almost of course without the motor installed. How do you get it to be that free? I heard of removing the shims from the inside of the diff case. Is that correct? Or do you move the shims from the front of the bearing to the rear? HELP. Took my car apart and want to do this correctly. Thanks.
It can be done with shimming, but you need to expirement what shims go where on your own. Unfortunately the slightest tweak in a mold can change where you need the shims, so every car is going to be a hair different. Start out by removing 1 of the 3 shims on the imput gear and see if that gets you anywhere. Generally by moving the input gear, and the diff gear away from eachother, it will get a little free-er, but dont go too far, or you'll strip gears easilly.
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Old 08-09-2003, 10:12 AM   #2897
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just shim it like the manual says and run it for a weekend, it will free up just fine. If you really have your heart set on it free spinning for awhile shell out the $100 or so and get some ceramic bearings
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Old 08-09-2003, 11:31 AM   #2898
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One of the most important tricks to a free drive train is proper bearing treatment. Like most bearings, the Yokomos come with a heavy grease inside. By very carefully removing one shield, cleaning the bearing with the IRS bearing cleaner with WD-40 and then using a light bearing oil instead of the grease, the bearing can spin much freer. However, the bearing will require more maintainance, as dirt and grime can much more easily enter the bearing with the one shield missing. Proper shimming and break-in are also important, but only to the extent that there is no binding within the drivetrain. Also, experiment with different gear lubrications for the diff ring gears. I have used white lightening, but find that it leaves a wax residue that can bind the gears.
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Old 08-09-2003, 11:59 AM   #2899
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
just shim it like the manual says and run it for a weekend, it will free up just fine. If you really have your heart set on it free spinning for awhile shell out the $100 or so and get some ceramic bearings
are you racing with the big boys this weekend or are you going to the novice shoot out????
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Old 08-09-2003, 12:44 PM   #2900
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See- somehow I got tabbed with weekend standby so I'm going to speedworld, I can still make it into work within an hour from there if they need me. See you in a couple of hours
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Old 08-10-2003, 11:04 AM   #2901
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Matt- racing was fun last night except for the hacking. The yok's looked good last night. I had a great set up on my car but didn't have the best of luck. See you in about two weeks.
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Old 08-10-2003, 01:10 PM   #2902
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You had bad luck? I was winning for half the race until I came up on traffic, I cleared the way so John could make it through for the win.
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Old 08-10-2003, 01:29 PM   #2903
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Last night I ran my car with the rear shock tower on the front. Damn does that thing make my car steer even more than it already did. I raised my front roll center up 2mm and that helped to simmer my steering down some. Even with the locked diff I still had tons of steering in and out. I just finished making me a .078 front swaybar instead of that little skinny stock one that came with the car.

If I take my rear camber link out on the rear hub and put a spacer under the ball stud won't that give me a little more rear bite? Would that be the same for the front as well?

Thanks
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Old 08-10-2003, 04:38 PM   #2904
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Just finished 4th in the Norwegian Stock Nats, with my 1 month old SD. Might have done better if I hadn't lost my kingpin screw in the last final. (>_<)

Guess I have to get me some of those Suzuki front hubs, so I can loctite those suckers...


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Old 08-10-2003, 05:39 PM   #2905
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Sigmund- Congrats on the win! The Suzuki hubs are nice because you can locktite them and they look cool, but if you are using MIP Shiny universals the fit is as tight as it can be, but it shouldn't rub.

wyd- Usually, if you change the camber link angle to cause it to slope downward as it reaches the center of the chassis, traction will be reduced. So, putting a shim under the outer ball stud on the rear should give you less rear traction. However, doing the same to the front only might fix your problem. For a while I ran pro-squat in the rear for more rear bite. I put about 1 or 1.5 mm of shimming under the rear mount of the rear arm only. This causes the arm to point downward towards the front of the car and can give you more rear grip coming out of corners. This is not a popular setup on other vehicles, but it does seem to work on the SD.
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Old 08-10-2003, 06:11 PM   #2906
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
You had bad luck? I was winning for half the race until I came up on traffic, I cleared the way so John could make it through for the win.
I tried a new set up on the car yesterday and it was pretty good. I had to knock some rust off after that looooong lay off I took. You did get screwed in traffic in the main but I was glad to see someone other than myself get the short end of the stick.... My 9 turns were wicked fast yesterday. What turn were you running?
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Old 08-10-2003, 07:25 PM   #2907
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coolrcdad thanks for the tips. I keep writing this stuff down in my notebook. It really helps if my car is giving me problems.
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Old 08-10-2003, 08:12 PM   #2908
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stlnlst- I was running a speedworld 9x2
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Old 08-10-2003, 10:45 PM   #2909
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Hey guys

Dont know if you have seen these pictures or not...but enjoy!





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Old 08-10-2003, 11:56 PM   #2910
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Hey is that the hybrid chassis that combines parts of the SD with parts from a Tamiya EVO III? If it is cool, and even better if its the Rayspeed chassis. DOOOD ITS SWEET!!!!
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