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Old 07-11-2003, 08:18 PM   #2551
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
I've been using AE ballcups for shock ends and screwing the ball into the arm so you just snap your shock on. This is with using the rayspeed springs and AE spring cups
Hi Matt,

Thanks for the clarification. So is the ball cups shorter then the shock ends?

Dan
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Old 07-11-2003, 08:19 PM   #2552
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I think they are the same size but when you use the AE spring cups the springs can sit lower allowing you to get a lower ride height
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Old 07-11-2003, 08:19 PM   #2553
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TheGame I use the stock Orange Yoke springs on the front and the stock Green Yoke springs on the rear. I normally run orange on the front and rear but only have one pair of orange springs for now. I will try oranges all the way around as soon as I get them.
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Old 07-11-2003, 10:34 PM   #2554
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This is what I have done to get what I want in front.I did away whith the rear shock tower in front,moved the caster blocks to the bottom most hole,threaded the long eyelette that comes on tree on,treadded the eyelette to 60 mm over all length.
I have a measured droop of 7mm in front,but I get a ride heighth of 5mm.7mm of droop seems a little x-tream but when u feel the droop by dropping the car and holding the tire,it feels rite on.I think this will work,but only fate will tell tommarow.



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Old 07-12-2003, 02:42 AM   #2555
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Had an interesting test session yesterday. Josh actually gave me 90 minutes of his time and we were able to get through alot.

As he was there we concentrated mainly on his TC3s. I left one car exactly as last raced. He ran that first - let's call it car 1, and we got some lap times. That was the basis on which we would work.

Now Car 1 uses stock diffs front and rear, whilst Car 2 had the locked front fitted, and various other set up changes to work in conjunction with the locked front, such as rear tower up front, etc.

Next run. Car 2. This was the first time he had driven with locked front. He read over all your correspondence and your problems in RC Tech so he knew that he would have to change his driving style. Lap times were pretty lousy and more inconsistant, but improved as he adapted his driving style.

When I suggested he gets more aggressive the odd lap did improve but he still complained that it was difficult to get consistantly good lap times. The clock showed it too.

A new set of tyres on the same car (Car 2) improved things slightly but he was still not happy. He suggested I put a stock diff in the front just to see that the car was basically OK, so I will do that before we have another session. So at least he doesn't seem to have given up on it yet.

Back to Car 1 for some different tyre and insert evaluation. The rest of the evening was spent experimenting with tyres on car 1.

I did manage 1 run with my Yoke. It was good.....as usual. This evening I will run with a rear tower up front, and will also try different tyre/insert combinations.

Will report back Monday.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 07-12-2003, 08:34 AM   #2556
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Joe, did you ever try the rear tower on front with the 1 way or spool? My SD handled like a dream with the rear tower up front, but I didn't get run the differential with that setup...

Notice the pics from the Reedy race is where the rear tower thing started, and both Masami, and Tosolini's cars were using spools, because 1 ways are banned at Reedy...
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Old 07-12-2003, 10:21 AM   #2557
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Sorry if I didn't clairify it in my earlier post, but I was meaning AE ball cups (like used on turn buckles). Chris Tosolini told me at the Nats to leave the front ball cups (on the shock ends) the stock length. But for the rear, cut off about 3-4mm on the ball cup and screw on all the way. He did this for some kind of clearance or something with the shock retainers. I dunno, he just cut the ball cups for me. I can post pics later on tonight. But right now I gotta get ready to go race! So catch yall then...

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Old 07-12-2003, 11:51 AM   #2558
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So are you using the AE ballstuds or the yokomo ones? I just put the AE ends with the screw that goes through them. I unthreaded the ball end a few turns to get the spring adjustment a little lower on the threaded part of the shock body...worked really well for me.

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Old 07-12-2003, 07:28 PM   #2559
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AE ball studs threads are not wide enough to stay snug in the arms. So I used Yok ball studs like the ones on the rear hubs for the camber links. I'll have to take some pictures later on. Just got back from a race today. TQ'd Stock but got beat by brushless hehe. Took 2nd. Lemme finish up cleaning up....

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Old 07-13-2003, 07:26 AM   #2560
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What parts should I get that would allow me to use Associated springs, and there part numbers?
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Old 07-13-2003, 10:10 AM   #2561
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All you need is the lower spring retainers and shock ends. Go to Speedtech's site, you can get it all there.
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Old 07-13-2003, 02:45 PM   #2562
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i am sure someone must have asked before but what 's the advantage of running associated/rayspeed springs ? what's wrong with stock ones ?
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Old 07-13-2003, 04:46 PM   #2563
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The other springs have closer spring rates and are more progressive over their travel. I run the Yokes and never really had any troubles getting my car to work with them.
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Old 07-13-2003, 07:46 PM   #2564
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I run the AE springs because i have been running the TC3 for years and own 10+pairs of them. The have a good range of stiffness and they are rated in pounds a measurement that makes sence to me rather then just colors or spring size.

Also i have found the japanese companies typically only offer softer springs below 20lb tamiya,kyosho and yok dont seem to have very heavy spring rates.

I use them for foam and carpet
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Old 07-13-2003, 09:32 PM   #2565
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Actually Yokomo makes some very stiff springs, might be a little hard to find because they arent commonly used, but if you need em, they make em.
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