Yokomo MR-4TC SD
#2416
Originally posted by Randman
Joe, with the ae shocks can your arms droop lower than the chassis?
Joe, with the ae shocks can your arms droop lower than the chassis?
#2417
Tech Legend
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
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Randman I think the one way will be faster for me on the longer more flowing tracks. I normally only run on that type of track 2 times a year and thats it. The spool fits my needs for the other tighter tracks I normally run on. I will still try the one way though.
If you want to still sell that one way minus the one outdrive let me know as I will take it for spare parts or I will just buy an outdrive for it. I leave for vacation in about an hour so I can't respond til at least late on Friday night. You can PM me and then I won't have to look through all these pages as this thread will grow alot til I'm back.
The new parts worked great yesturday. Ran stock with the stuff for the first time and noticed alot more acceleration overall and with my spool I really noticed coming out of the corners.
If you want to still sell that one way minus the one outdrive let me know as I will take it for spare parts or I will just buy an outdrive for it. I leave for vacation in about an hour so I can't respond til at least late on Friday night. You can PM me and then I won't have to look through all these pages as this thread will grow alot til I'm back.
The new parts worked great yesturday. Ran stock with the stuff for the first time and noticed alot more acceleration overall and with my spool I really noticed coming out of the corners.
#2419
Tech Fanatic
My son did some chassis balancing tests yesterday and found about a 30 gram lighter difference on the motor side. We started out with removing the battery hold down posts and strap and used tape instead. Placed 3 10-gram weights along side the motor in a row on the right rear bottom plate. In all, with a body on, the car comes in at 1,530 grams, just 5 above the ROAR minimum. Not bad.
#2420
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
There is a lot of weight difference in the SD, I was surprized as well. I am going to buy the IRS digital tweak board so that I can get all of my cars to have the same weight in all 4 corners, I think that will help out on the track quite a bit since a lot of the new sedans are placing all 6 cells on 1 side of the car and upseting the balance.
#2421
Originally posted by Randman
I was smoking everyone off the line at the beginning of the heats at SoCal
I was smoking everyone off the line at the beginning of the heats at SoCal
With so much power, it is difficult to smoke anybody but the most hurting cars at socal
#2422
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
I had to let off the throttle so I didn't pound the guy in front of me at the start of the heats, definately had the power off the line. If I had the motor that the other drivers had, I would have been much faster through practice, they would pull me on the straight every lap, but I pulled them in on the infield consistantly.
#2423
Lol Randman, I was just pulling your leg. KR's got serious ponies eh?
We'll be there on Tuesday with a BL comeback
We'll be there on Tuesday with a BL comeback
#2424
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
My friend hooked me up with his MR-4TC Atsushi Hara edition (old school babyyy!!!) so I can run at the Hitec race, I'd go to SoCal on Tuesday with you guys, but I sold my old packs to buy some nicer Kinetix packs with better #'s, just waiting on those to arrive so I can hit the track and get this MR-4TC running. BTW, I bought 3 stock motors, so you guys better run stock still!
#2425
Here's my setup for Stock Class here. Thanks to MO for his Fill in Setup Sheet!
#2426
Tech Elite
iTrader: (21)
sorry in advance for not looking back through many pages of past posts, but one beef seemd to keep arising, and that is that people are having a problem with not getting enough droop into the car.
now i have just come on with team yokomo, and was previously running with tamiya's TRF. i was very happy to see the triangular insert that goes into the shock body to support the shock shaft. this was a problem that the tamiya shocks have had for as long as they have been using their shock design. becuase in the tamiya shock that shaft was not supported on the inside, that teflon seals and bushings in the bottom of the shock (where the o-rings are located) would always become distorted and stretched due to impacts and continuious ware. however the yok shock design prevents this from happening becuase of that shock insert.
now... i realized that the triangular piece was quite long to begin with, and that is was going to limmit the shock's rebound considerably. so before i even built the shocks for the first time, i cut down this support piece, leaving approximately 1.5mm of the old shoulder on the piece, and discarded the rest. it will still provide sufficient support for the shock shaft, yet allowing for all of the droop that you could ever possibly want to run.
so why is this little thing seem to be throwing people for such a loop? people are posting as if there is something wrong with the whole design of the shock? this shock is the absolute best shock available right now, it combines all of the smoothness of the tamiya florine coated shocks, and the advanced design to correct the problems that other shock develope (the stress suffered by an unsupported shaft)
just my opinion
pete
now i have just come on with team yokomo, and was previously running with tamiya's TRF. i was very happy to see the triangular insert that goes into the shock body to support the shock shaft. this was a problem that the tamiya shocks have had for as long as they have been using their shock design. becuase in the tamiya shock that shaft was not supported on the inside, that teflon seals and bushings in the bottom of the shock (where the o-rings are located) would always become distorted and stretched due to impacts and continuious ware. however the yok shock design prevents this from happening becuase of that shock insert.
now... i realized that the triangular piece was quite long to begin with, and that is was going to limmit the shock's rebound considerably. so before i even built the shocks for the first time, i cut down this support piece, leaving approximately 1.5mm of the old shoulder on the piece, and discarded the rest. it will still provide sufficient support for the shock shaft, yet allowing for all of the droop that you could ever possibly want to run.
so why is this little thing seem to be throwing people for such a loop? people are posting as if there is something wrong with the whole design of the shock? this shock is the absolute best shock available right now, it combines all of the smoothness of the tamiya florine coated shocks, and the advanced design to correct the problems that other shock develope (the stress suffered by an unsupported shaft)
just my opinion
pete
#2427
I think people's main complaint has been that if you build the shocks to the kit settings, they are just far too short as a starting point, which just adds confusion.
I see your point about the triangular piece, but if you unscrew the bottoms a bit, or use the long ends, you get the shock length you need, and don't have any problems with the stroke. I was thinking of removing it, but then realised it was intended as a guide.
Or you could fit GT4 SS bodies, and maybe shafts as well.
I see your point about the triangular piece, but if you unscrew the bottoms a bit, or use the long ends, you get the shock length you need, and don't have any problems with the stroke. I was thinking of removing it, but then realised it was intended as a guide.
Or you could fit GT4 SS bodies, and maybe shafts as well.
#2428
Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.
RANDMAN.
Yes indeed, because of their added length the AE shocks allow for more travel, therefore more droop too.
Which also answers PETE ROBINSON's question as to why people complain about Yoke shocks.
Yes, you can simply use long ends everywhere to lenghten the shock, but you are only extending it's physical length that way. Using complete AE shocks makes the whole thing more versatile.
Don't get me wrong. There is nothing whatsoever wrong with Yoke shocks. It's just that lots of people seem to be finding that the AE ones happen to be more suited to the characteristics of the SD.
SPOOL.
I'm finding my way around it. It's really a matter of adapting your driving to it. I will try running with a rear tower up front next.
Regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
RANDMAN.
Yes indeed, because of their added length the AE shocks allow for more travel, therefore more droop too.
Which also answers PETE ROBINSON's question as to why people complain about Yoke shocks.
Yes, you can simply use long ends everywhere to lenghten the shock, but you are only extending it's physical length that way. Using complete AE shocks makes the whole thing more versatile.
Don't get me wrong. There is nothing whatsoever wrong with Yoke shocks. It's just that lots of people seem to be finding that the AE ones happen to be more suited to the characteristics of the SD.
SPOOL.
I'm finding my way around it. It's really a matter of adapting your driving to it. I will try running with a rear tower up front next.
Regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
#2429
John, I have a question to ask. Since there is an advantage using ASE Shocks on the the SD. Could you please tell me if the shock shafts of the TC3 will fit the Yokomo shock bodies? Thanks.
#2430
is this a better value than gettin a evo3s? wat are the pros and cons of the car?.. seems like a lot of ppl are breakin a lot of parts
Last edited by cHckbOY5; 07-07-2003 at 03:35 PM.