Yokomo MR-4TC SD
#2296
Yokomo Aluminum Battery Plate
Hello out there!
Did anyone use the Aluminum Battery brace from the "old" MR-4TC Special on the new SD?
I wonder if it would fit? If it fit's what was the part number?
Cheers!
Did anyone use the Aluminum Battery brace from the "old" MR-4TC Special on the new SD?
I wonder if it would fit? If it fit's what was the part number?
Cheers!
#2297
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
trf racer a soldi diff might not so good on a polished floor. Try one and see. You will need more caster to get the car turning when going into a corner and then when you crush the throttle the rear will just follow the front end around and you gain more high speed steering, and normally alot of it. Main differance is how hard the car pulls out of corners once you get inot the corner and are hard on the throttle again. If you have good corner speed with the diff you will have more with the spool as long as you can get it not to understeer going into the corner.
#2298
Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.
CHAINI.
The answer is yes. The Yoke SP alloy battery holder down will fit straight onto the SD if you use the Special plate hardware (posts) too.
I have it on mine. Check out the pics in the galery on Yokomo USA site. You'll probably have to go back a couple of pages because I posted them some time ago.
LOCKED FRONT.
I tried it yesterday. An absolute disaster. The car is uncontrollable in every situation. It has gone from a perfect handler to a DOG!
I am now trying a few set up changes to get rid of the understeer (push) into corners, but there is so much of it I don't know what will solve it.
This is what iI have done now. Will try it at the track this evening.
1) Lower front roll centre.
2) Remove front roll bar.
3) Fit thicker rear roll bar.
4) Remove front kick up.
5) increase front neg camber from 1 to 2 deg.
6) increase front toe out from 0 to 1 deg.
7) increase difference between front to rear ride height. F5. R6.5.
Next thing will be to play with shock positions.
If all this doesn't work I will simply revert back to a normal diff, after all which real car has ever worked with a locked front diff!
Will report back tomorrow.
regasrds
Joe from sunny Malta.
CHAINI.
The answer is yes. The Yoke SP alloy battery holder down will fit straight onto the SD if you use the Special plate hardware (posts) too.
I have it on mine. Check out the pics in the galery on Yokomo USA site. You'll probably have to go back a couple of pages because I posted them some time ago.
LOCKED FRONT.
I tried it yesterday. An absolute disaster. The car is uncontrollable in every situation. It has gone from a perfect handler to a DOG!
I am now trying a few set up changes to get rid of the understeer (push) into corners, but there is so much of it I don't know what will solve it.
This is what iI have done now. Will try it at the track this evening.
1) Lower front roll centre.
2) Remove front roll bar.
3) Fit thicker rear roll bar.
4) Remove front kick up.
5) increase front neg camber from 1 to 2 deg.
6) increase front toe out from 0 to 1 deg.
7) increase difference between front to rear ride height. F5. R6.5.
Next thing will be to play with shock positions.
If all this doesn't work I will simply revert back to a normal diff, after all which real car has ever worked with a locked front diff!
Will report back tomorrow.
regasrds
Joe from sunny Malta.
#2299
Originally posted by johnbull
Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.
CHAINI.
The answer is yes. The Yoke SP alloy battery holder down will fit straight onto the SD if you use the Special plate hardware (posts) too.
I have it on mine. Check out the pics in the galery on Yokomo USA site. You'll probably have to go back a couple of pages because I posted them some time ago.
Joe from sunny Malta.
Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.
CHAINI.
The answer is yes. The Yoke SP alloy battery holder down will fit straight onto the SD if you use the Special plate hardware (posts) too.
I have it on mine. Check out the pics in the galery on Yokomo USA site. You'll probably have to go back a couple of pages because I posted them some time ago.
Joe from sunny Malta.
P L E A S E H E L P!
Cheers!
Last edited by chaini; 07-01-2003 at 04:04 PM.
#2300
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Joe, the first thing I would do is add rear antisquat and front droop. Both of these things will help the car turn in harder. Add 1 or 2 degrees of antisquat and increase your front droop (lower number on droop gauge) by 2mm. Another thing you can do is increase the upward angle of your front camber links. This will give more camber change and more steering.
#2301
MO.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Believe it or not I was just going to start playing with the back right now. Yes, you're right, some antisquat would help without making the back too loose. I'll certainly try it.
But it won't be this evening. I had planned to go to the track but my wife just phoned suggesting we go for a swim instead, and it's so hot at the moment, I"m gonna do that.
Thanks again.
I'll be down tomorrow and let you know then.
regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Believe it or not I was just going to start playing with the back right now. Yes, you're right, some antisquat would help without making the back too loose. I'll certainly try it.
But it won't be this evening. I had planned to go to the track but my wife just phoned suggesting we go for a swim instead, and it's so hot at the moment, I"m gonna do that.
Thanks again.
I'll be down tomorrow and let you know then.
regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
#2302
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
No problem, hopefully that will help a bunch.
I currently have a problem that I cannot figure out. The car has been acting like it has a severe tweak but I cannot find it. Even with the car seemingly tweaked out perfectly, on the track it has a tendancy to spin out, off power, to the left. Nothing is binding, all shock lengths and droop are set well and it has done it with 3 completly different setups with different springs oil and pistons. Has anyone else had a similar problem? I guess maybe I'm going to have to take is completly apart and start from scratch to see if there's something wrong I can't see. hmmm
I currently have a problem that I cannot figure out. The car has been acting like it has a severe tweak but I cannot find it. Even with the car seemingly tweaked out perfectly, on the track it has a tendancy to spin out, off power, to the left. Nothing is binding, all shock lengths and droop are set well and it has done it with 3 completly different setups with different springs oil and pistons. Has anyone else had a similar problem? I guess maybe I'm going to have to take is completly apart and start from scratch to see if there's something wrong I can't see. hmmm
#2305
balance
I think the best why to do this is. To get four digital scales and sit each tire on one, see what it comes out to..
Also Check your steering throw left to right, see if its = on the track.
On my TC3 I had a front right hinge pin bent and that tweaked it. Replaced it and it went away...
Also Check your steering throw left to right, see if its = on the track.
On my TC3 I had a front right hinge pin bent and that tweaked it. Replaced it and it went away...
#2307
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Hey guys...
I haven't been to the thread in a while because there isn't much for me to say about the car. It works great.
I had a rough weekend last week. Broke the car twice in one weekend at two different races. One day I broke a universal at the stub axle joint section and a steering block(both in the same hard impact). I also managed to break the one-way on my KX-1 on this day. The other day, I got caught in an extremely low speed pile up and came away with a broken universal at the thin part of the dogbone. And on my nitro car, I also managed to lose the nut off the cinch bolt that secures my carb on my nitro engine! So like I said, it was a rough weekend.
This weekend went much better. A very tight layout required me to make the switch to the diff up front. I also went with Orange springs all the way around. The dual diff, very stiff set up worked great. I was forced to retire from the A-main when I was smacked by another racer who got a bug on them and it partially dislodged my transponder mount.
But, other than that, everything has been great with the car. I've looked at all the options that are availible, and other than the "baseball bat" dogbones from Tobee, nothing has really caught my eye as neccesary upgrades. Now if I can just catch those Tobee dogbones when they're in stock at Speedtech.
I haven't been to the thread in a while because there isn't much for me to say about the car. It works great.
I had a rough weekend last week. Broke the car twice in one weekend at two different races. One day I broke a universal at the stub axle joint section and a steering block(both in the same hard impact). I also managed to break the one-way on my KX-1 on this day. The other day, I got caught in an extremely low speed pile up and came away with a broken universal at the thin part of the dogbone. And on my nitro car, I also managed to lose the nut off the cinch bolt that secures my carb on my nitro engine! So like I said, it was a rough weekend.
This weekend went much better. A very tight layout required me to make the switch to the diff up front. I also went with Orange springs all the way around. The dual diff, very stiff set up worked great. I was forced to retire from the A-main when I was smacked by another racer who got a bug on them and it partially dislodged my transponder mount.
But, other than that, everything has been great with the car. I've looked at all the options that are availible, and other than the "baseball bat" dogbones from Tobee, nothing has really caught my eye as neccesary upgrades. Now if I can just catch those Tobee dogbones when they're in stock at Speedtech.
#2308
Tech Fanatic
thats the same problem im having mo, i found a bent front a arm hinge pin but havent been to the track to see if it fixed it.
#2309
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Originally posted by mo
Randman, that's one thing I haven't done yet. I'm trying to think of the best way to check that. Have you or anyone else done that and found it to be significantly unbalanced?
What techniques have you guys used to test the balance?
Randman, that's one thing I haven't done yet. I'm trying to think of the best way to check that. Have you or anyone else done that and found it to be significantly unbalanced?
What techniques have you guys used to test the balance?
#2310
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Mo, I had the same problem on my xxx-s about a year ago. I did al the things you checked and could not get it figured out...then a buddy suggested that I take a look at the shock shafts...sure enough I had a bent shaft...it was still smooth feeling but when I took the shock apart I found the bent part...new shaft and problem went away!
May not be your problem but you may want to check those shafts.
I am really getting this car shook out and am getting it up to speed locally...thanks for this sites help!
Jeff
May not be your problem but you may want to check those shafts.
I am really getting this car shook out and am getting it up to speed locally...thanks for this sites help!
Jeff