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Old 07-01-2003, 05:50 AM   #2296
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Default Yokomo Aluminum Battery Plate

Hello out there!

Did anyone use the Aluminum Battery brace from the "old" MR-4TC Special on the new SD?



I wonder if it would fit? If it fit's what was the part number?

Cheers!

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Old 07-01-2003, 05:50 AM   #2297
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trf racer a soldi diff might not so good on a polished floor. Try one and see. You will need more caster to get the car turning when going into a corner and then when you crush the throttle the rear will just follow the front end around and you gain more high speed steering, and normally alot of it. Main differance is how hard the car pulls out of corners once you get inot the corner and are hard on the throttle again. If you have good corner speed with the diff you will have more with the spool as long as you can get it not to understeer going into the corner.
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Old 07-01-2003, 07:03 AM   #2298
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

CHAINI.

The answer is yes. The Yoke SP alloy battery holder down will fit straight onto the SD if you use the Special plate hardware (posts) too.

I have it on mine. Check out the pics in the galery on Yokomo USA site. You'll probably have to go back a couple of pages because I posted them some time ago.

LOCKED FRONT.

I tried it yesterday. An absolute disaster. The car is uncontrollable in every situation. It has gone from a perfect handler to a DOG!

I am now trying a few set up changes to get rid of the understeer (push) into corners, but there is so much of it I don't know what will solve it.
This is what iI have done now. Will try it at the track this evening.

1) Lower front roll centre.
2) Remove front roll bar.
3) Fit thicker rear roll bar.
4) Remove front kick up.
5) increase front neg camber from 1 to 2 deg.
6) increase front toe out from 0 to 1 deg.
7) increase difference between front to rear ride height. F5. R6.5.

Next thing will be to play with shock positions.

If all this doesn't work I will simply revert back to a normal diff, after all which real car has ever worked with a locked front diff!

Will report back tomorrow.

regasrds

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 07-01-2003, 07:23 AM   #2299
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull
Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

CHAINI.

The answer is yes. The Yoke SP alloy battery holder down will fit straight onto the SD if you use the Special plate hardware (posts) too.

I have it on mine. Check out the pics in the galery on Yokomo USA site. You'll probably have to go back a couple of pages because I posted them some time ago.

Joe from sunny Malta.
Thanks Joe for the answer. The posts of the SP are :ZS-118MSP. So I wonder, if it also would work with the alloy posts from the SD: SD-118M ??? What's the difference? Or are the posts included with the battery plate?

P L E A S E H E L P!

Cheers!

Last edited by chaini; 07-01-2003 at 05:04 PM.
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Old 07-01-2003, 09:17 AM   #2300
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Joe, the first thing I would do is add rear antisquat and front droop. Both of these things will help the car turn in harder. Add 1 or 2 degrees of antisquat and increase your front droop (lower number on droop gauge) by 2mm. Another thing you can do is increase the upward angle of your front camber links. This will give more camber change and more steering.
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Old 07-01-2003, 09:22 AM   #2301
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MO.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Believe it or not I was just going to start playing with the back right now. Yes, you're right, some antisquat would help without making the back too loose. I'll certainly try it.

But it won't be this evening. I had planned to go to the track but my wife just phoned suggesting we go for a swim instead, and it's so hot at the moment, I"m gonna do that.

Thanks again.

I'll be down tomorrow and let you know then.

regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 07-01-2003, 09:30 AM   #2302
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No problem, hopefully that will help a bunch.

I currently have a problem that I cannot figure out. The car has been acting like it has a severe tweak but I cannot find it. Even with the car seemingly tweaked out perfectly, on the track it has a tendancy to spin out, off power, to the left. Nothing is binding, all shock lengths and droop are set well and it has done it with 3 completly different setups with different springs oil and pistons. Has anyone else had a similar problem? I guess maybe I'm going to have to take is completly apart and start from scratch to see if there's something wrong I can't see. hmmm
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Old 07-01-2003, 10:22 AM   #2303
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Mo, although I doubt this is the problem, try to get the car as balanced as you can, the left side of the car is the heavy side, so in theory it could have a tendency to break loose because of that.
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Old 07-01-2003, 11:17 AM   #2304
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Randman, that's one thing I haven't done yet. I'm trying to think of the best way to check that. Have you or anyone else done that and found it to be significantly unbalanced?

What techniques have you guys used to test the balance?
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Old 07-01-2003, 11:34 AM   #2305
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I think the best why to do this is. To get four digital scales and sit each tire on one, see what it comes out to..

Also Check your steering throw left to right, see if its = on the track.

On my TC3 I had a front right hinge pin bent and that tweaked it. Replaced it and it went away...
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Old 07-01-2003, 12:00 PM   #2306
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I think the scales would only check tweak. Maybe if I did it without the shock springs it would work. Now I just need to find someone who has some good digital scales I can borrow.
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Old 07-01-2003, 12:03 PM   #2307
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Hey guys...

I haven't been to the thread in a while because there isn't much for me to say about the car. It works great.

I had a rough weekend last week. Broke the car twice in one weekend at two different races. One day I broke a universal at the stub axle joint section and a steering block(both in the same hard impact). I also managed to break the one-way on my KX-1 on this day. The other day, I got caught in an extremely low speed pile up and came away with a broken universal at the thin part of the dogbone. And on my nitro car, I also managed to lose the nut off the cinch bolt that secures my carb on my nitro engine! So like I said, it was a rough weekend.

This weekend went much better. A very tight layout required me to make the switch to the diff up front. I also went with Orange springs all the way around. The dual diff, very stiff set up worked great. I was forced to retire from the A-main when I was smacked by another racer who got a bug on them and it partially dislodged my transponder mount.

But, other than that, everything has been great with the car. I've looked at all the options that are availible, and other than the "baseball bat" dogbones from Tobee, nothing has really caught my eye as neccesary upgrades. Now if I can just catch those Tobee dogbones when they're in stock at Speedtech.
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Old 07-01-2003, 12:19 PM   #2308
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thats the same problem im having mo, i found a bent front a arm hinge pin but havent been to the track to see if it fixed it.
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Old 07-01-2003, 01:36 PM   #2309
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Quote:
Originally posted by mo
Randman, that's one thing I haven't done yet. I'm trying to think of the best way to check that. Have you or anyone else done that and found it to be significantly unbalanced?

What techniques have you guys used to test the balance?
I use the simple Hudy Chassis Balancing Tools, and they have worked great. Find the exact center line of the chassis, and about 1cm away from the front and rear of the chassis use a drill to make a tapered hole. Dont drill through the chassis, just go in 1-2mm deep with the tip of the drill. Set the Hudy tools in those holes you made and level the chassis, let go, and it will tilt to one side or the other (the left side on the SD) Counter the balance with lead weights on the right side until you get it perfect. When the car is balanced, you can let go of the car and it will stay level on the tools. BTW, I had a fan mounted, and the transponder mounted as far out as I could get it and it still needed lead, 3300 packs are heavy!
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Old 07-01-2003, 02:37 PM   #2310
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Mo, I had the same problem on my xxx-s about a year ago. I did al the things you checked and could not get it figured out...then a buddy suggested that I take a look at the shock shafts...sure enough I had a bent shaft...it was still smooth feeling but when I took the shock apart I found the bent part...new shaft and problem went away!

May not be your problem but you may want to check those shafts.

I am really getting this car shook out and am getting it up to speed locally...thanks for this sites help!

Jeff

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