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Old 06-30-2003, 07:47 AM   #2281
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Couple of things from prior pages...

KENTECH SHOCK TOWERS

I'd like to see a second, lower, row of holes on the fronts so you can run a standard length shock - no need for long or unscrewed ends. Maybe the second row on the rear as well, with an extra, lower row of camber link holes as well for the back end.

WANDERING STEERING

I always find that the plastic geared KO servo I use is a loose fit in most KO horns in kits- I use KO's own brand horns on all my cars, which are totally snug. The play in the ackerman link also makes the car wander a bit off-power, so I'm trying some tighter ball-cup combos.

SHAFT OFF CENTRE.

Mine doesn't run perfectly true either, although it did when new, I wonder if it's a little wear in the bearings, or stretching of the plastic gearboxes and shaft cups. Doesn't affect the smoothness noticeably though.
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Old 06-30-2003, 08:05 AM   #2282
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sorry guys, another question... my knuckles seem to bind with the c-hub, i tried loosening the screws but it didn't work, did anyone else have this problem? did anyone dremel or remove any material from either the knuckles or hubs?
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Old 06-30-2003, 08:15 AM   #2283
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Highwayman - Try removing 1 of the 3 shims from the rear imput shaft, it sounds like there is too much pressure bieng put on the gears.

I used 600 grit sandpaper to sand down the top of the steering knuckle just a hair to get it to move freely in the C Hub.
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Old 06-30-2003, 09:35 AM   #2284
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
Highwayman - Try removing 1 of the 3 shims from the rear imput shaft, it sounds like there is too much pressure bieng put on the gears.
nope... didn't work, actually, when i tightend the diff cover the bind got worse...

oh well, back to the drawing board...
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Old 06-30-2003, 09:39 AM   #2285
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u can try by fixing as from the manual....meaning taking out the motor mount and diff case from the chassis and redo as shown in the manual.... only difference is putting one shims instead of three
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Old 06-30-2003, 10:02 AM   #2286
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highwayman: i know what exactly ur problem is... u didnt seat the gear on the input shaft properly thats why its binding. the fit is really tight and very hard to seat properly with the white gears... happened to me but in the front instead it requires a little bit of hammering the input shaft in some cases... dont file or scrape some material on the gears or your might end up stripping it.

wyd: im using a sanwa wr digital servo which worked really well in my losi so i guess the servo isnt the problem. i added spacers to the servo mounts included in the servo assembly tree because my previous settings was rubbing on the center deck cos sanwa servo's are quite huge... will test on wednesday hope everything works well

johnbull: regarding the mrftc spindles... do i have to flip it upside down. because if u would mount in the sd wouldnt the ball studs be a little lower compared to the stock sd spindles??? and what will this do in handling??
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Old 06-30-2003, 10:04 AM   #2287
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highwayman: the knucles would really bind when new... after a few packs they will free up and eventually you'll start losing kingpins so check it often
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Old 06-30-2003, 11:56 AM   #2288
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does everthing spin with No diff in the gear box ?
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Old 06-30-2003, 01:01 PM   #2289
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Kolye: Highwayman is right. I had the same problem. We´ve discussed this some 40pages back Just make sure that the pin located on the input shaft sits perfectly in the middle. Otherwise you can´t slide the gear hub far enough back and that causes the binding of the drive-train when installing the rear transmission case.

Greet,
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Old 06-30-2003, 08:29 PM   #2290
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well I put a full race day on my Tobee center shaft, input shafts, and I put the aluminum CVD bones in the rear and everything ran great. I did have one of the pins on my center shaft move on me but I was able to get it back in and put a small drop of thin CA on it and it didn't move again. The car seemed to have more punch out of the corners, as would be expected with the light weight stuff.
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Old 06-30-2003, 08:44 PM   #2291
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The Tobee Craft stuff is really well made and durable as well. My stuff ran great!
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Old 06-30-2003, 11:13 PM   #2292
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THeGame, yup, more bad luck. I think I should have used Mike D's batteries when he offered them to me. Doh!!!! My friend did and he was in the Bmain! haha. Just sucks to see that batteries play a large key in such big events. Next time I know... hehe.

John Bull, usually the track isn't that tight... so oneway was great. But now... Spool! haha. I guess they are gonna keep the Nationals layout at the track for awhile. So I can get a good setup for it. Gonna try out Chris T's setup in Mod on it. I don't have his full setup. Just trying to remember what I saw in the pits.

Whew... I need a break!

Jimmy Mac
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Old 07-01-2003, 12:02 AM   #2293
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If you want his setup I can get it for you.

what was up with the hole 75 band thing. ?
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Old 07-01-2003, 03:42 AM   #2294
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Quote:
Originally posted by Koya Dale.com
highwayman: i know what exactly ur problem is... u didnt seat the gear on the input shaft properly thats why its binding. the fit is really tight and very hard to seat properly with the white gears... happened to me but in the front instead it requires a little bit of hammering the input shaft in some cases... dont file or scrape some material on the gears or your might end up stripping it.
Thanks! I figured it out last night. The rear input shaft was not fully seated. Now they are buttery smooth.
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Old 07-01-2003, 04:44 AM   #2295
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wot r the advantages of a solid front axle?
i now it will give front braking and wont slip but how do u get around a lack of front end grip?stiffen the rear?
i race indoors on polished floor[low grip]and its very tight.i race a normal diff but would a solid front axle be better?
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